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REPORT 



OF THE 



Brown -Harvard Expedition 



TO 



Nachvak, Labrador 
I 900 



BY 

E. B. DELABARRE, Ph. D. 



PROVIDENCE, R I. 

PRESTON & ROUNDS CO. 

1902. 



fwii 



,1)33 






BULLETIN OF THE 



Geographical Society 



OF PHILADELPHIA 



Vol. hi april, 1902 No. 4 

Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition to 
Nachvak, Labrador, in the year 1900. 



BY 

E. B. DELABARRE, Ph. D., 

Professor of Psychology in Brown University. 

Introduction. — I. Outline of the Voyage. — II. Summary of the 
Voyage, and Meteorological Conditions. — III. Overland from Hebron 
to Nachvak. — IV. Nachvak Bay and the Ascent of Mount Faunce. 
V. Scenery of the Atlantic Coast of Labrador. — VI. Life on the 
Labrador Coast. — VII. Scientific Results of the Expedition. — VIII. Re- 
port on Botany. — IX. Report on Ornithology. — X. Report on Geology. 



INTRODUCTION. 

This is the record of an expedition of very modest pro- 
portions and aims. As explorers none of the party had had 
previous experience ; and only two were experts in the line of 
work they undertook, both of them young in their respective 
professions. These facts account for much that must neces- 
sarily appear as of a more or less amateurish character in our 
work and report. The results accomplished in spite of these 
disadvantages, however, which have largely exceeded our 
anticipations, show how large a field for further profitable 
research still awaits the explorer. Large sections of the coast 
are still without a first crude charting of any degree of ac- 
curacy ; and the entire coast is much in need of thorough work 
of this kind. Great ranges of the loftiest mountains on our 

65 



66 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

Atlantic seaboard ofifer a tempting and untrodden ground for 
topographical and geological investigation. The botanist, 
the zoologist, and doubtless the scientific worker in many 
other lines, may confidently expect many important discov- 
eries to reward his labors. 

Some of our results have already been pubHshed. Mr. 
Bigelow's report on Ornithology appears in Auk, 1902, Vol. 
XXVII, pp. 24-31 ; and Dr. Daly's account of the geology of 
the coast in the Bidletin of the Museum of Comparative Zoology 
at Harvard College, 1902, Vol. XXXVIII, pp. 205-270. Each 
of them has contributed a section to the present report, 
briefly summarizing his results. Dr. Daly's report is accom- 
panied by a number of illustrations, for the most part of a 
more purely geological interest than those given herewith. 
It embodies by far the most important results of our expe- 
dition ; and it emphasizes at greater length than I have done 
the need of further exploration. 

Local names and their spelling, as given in this report, 
cannot in all cases be taken as final and authoritative. There 
is need of revision in this whole matter, and the final solution 
must be left to the future. This is true particularly of the 
names of the less prominent rivers, mountains, and localities 
in the more northerly parts of the country. It is not unnatural 
that a considerable variety in usage should have arisen. 
Some names are due to the Newfoundland fishermen, of Eng- 
lish descent. Some were given by German missionaries, and 
these have been Anglicized to some extent. A large propor- 
tion are of Eskimo origin, and their orthographic rendition is 
due partially to English sources, more largely to the German 
missionaries, whose spellings in some cases have been vari- 
ously and doubtfully modified to suit the demands of English 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. • 67 

phonetics. Our authorities for the names were the various 
charts, the Nezvfoundland and Labrador Pilot, Mr. George 
Ford, of Nachvak, and Rev. Wolf Stecker, of Ramah. Dr. 
Daly, in his report, has used the versions of the latter, whom 
he regards as "the only one I have come across who can give 
authoritative opinions on Eskimo." I should have preferred 
to have used the same spellings and forms in all cases as Dr. 
Daly ; but unfortunately his report has come to me too late 
to make the necessary changes in my text, and I was previ- 
ously unaware of the names as given by Stecker. The differ- 
ences are not numerous, and apply almost exclusively to the 
region about Nachvak, for which I have used names as given 
by Mr. Ford. I call attention in footnotes to the most im- 
portant of the variations. 

To Professor Packard and President Faunce, of Brown 
University, and President EHot, of Harvard, I apologize for 
the use of their names as designations of mountains. The 
exaggerations of certain unauthorized newspaper accounts 
soon after our return may have given them unpleasant asso- 
ciations, but I trust that these may have long since disap- 
peared. Dr. Daly, in his map of Nachvak Bay, reproduced 
herewith, shows two of these mountains, but does not use 
their names ; and he writes me that "the mountains are really 
not sufficiently prominent even in Labrador to merit those 
particular names." It is true that there are loftier summits in 
Labrador, and that had we found and climbed them we should 
have resei-ved these names for the worthiest of them. But 
they were the highest unnamed peaks with which we came 
into intimate contact; as will be seen from my frequent de- 
scriptive and botanical references to them, it was essential 
to give them some distinctive label ; and we hope that the 



68 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

men whom we, as college students and professors, honor and 
esteem most highly, will not resent the liberty we have taken 
in a spirit of sincerest admiration and respect. 

I gladly express my indebtedness to the many who have 
been of aid to me in connection with the preparation and 
material of this report. Mr. Henry G. Bryant very kindly 
allows me to reproduce his map of Labrador. The gener- 
osity of Dr. Daly and of the Museum of Comparative 
Zoology at Harvard College make it possible to present 
Daly's Map of Nachvak Bay. To Dr. Daly and Mr. Adams 
I owe the privilege of including some of their photographs 
with my own ; and to Dr. Grenfell that of making use of the 
photograph given as frontispiece. To the publishers of 
Outing I am indebted for the cuts showing the Eskimos at 
Pangnertok, and the party on the overland trip from 
Hebron to Nachvak. The editors of the Providence Journal 
and of the Brunonian permit me to use again in two of 
my sections material which was contributed originally to 
their publications. To Professor Bailey and Mr. ColHns I 
cannot sufficiently express my gratitude for their aid in the 
identification of botanical specimens. Without the large 
amount of time and energy they have willingly devoted to 
this task, my own work on the expedition would have been 
valueless. To a large degree, also, I am under obligation to 
Professor Cummings, Professor Farlow, Professor Packard, 
Professor Robinson, and Professor Rowlee for similar 
services. 

Finally, and not the least heartily, I express my grateful 
appreciation to the Geographical Society of Philadelphia for 
its courtesy in permitting the use of its pages for my report ; 
and to its Secretary, Mr. Greene, for his invaluable help and 
advice in the work of publication. 



E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 69 



OUTLINE OF THE VOYAGE. 

The coast of Labrador is distant from us only about a 
week's journey, and in its southern parts is easily accessible 
by aid of regularly running steamers. Its brief summers 
possess the attractiveness of our own autumnal season. Its 
scenery is magnificent, full of beauty and grandeur, distin- 
guished by including the highest mountains on the entire 
Atlantic side of America, and in other ways also rivaHng that 
of many more frequently visited regions. Its reputation as 
a cold, forbidding, desolate, and dangerous country is unjust. 
Though forests are lacking near the coast, yet it has the 
charm of an abundant vegetation, giving it color and life 
without concealment of the glory of form belonging to its 
rocky and lofty mountains. It supports a considerable 
population, both native and white. It is visited annually by 
hundreds of fishermen from Newfoundland, to some of whom 
it is familiar even to its northern extreme. It has been ex- 
plored by scientists to a considerable extent, and traversed 
by them in various directions. Yet, in spite of these facts, 
it remains comparatively unknown to most people and 
attracts few visitors ; and scientific expeditions can still add 
much to knowledge concerning it. 

Huntington Adams, an undergraduate of Harvard, ac- 
companied the expedition made by Mr. Taber in 1899 in 
search of Eskimos for the Paris Exposition of 1900. He re- 
turned full of enthusiasm for the beauty of the country and 
eager to return to it for further exploration. He had learned 
that there was yet plentiful need of good scientific work 
throughout the peninsula. Much of the coast is still very 



70 Report of the Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 

inadequately charted. Almost all previous scientific expe- 
ditions have traversed the coast with such rapidity and 
touched at so few points that a large proportion of it has been 
very insufficiently examined, and its physiographic features 
and geological structure still lack accurate description. In- 
terior exploration has been confined to comparatively few 
routes, and in particular the entire northern part of the 
peninsula, between Ungava Bay and the Atlantic, where 
exist probably the most elevated points of land on the eastern 
side of the continent, has never had its heights measured and 
other features determined. Mr. Adams's description of 
these opportunities for further research ; his excellent photo- 
graphs of the scenery ; his representations of the game possi- 
bilities of the region ; and a general desire to visit an un- 
known country and to lead an active, healthy, outdoor life 
for a short time, finally induced several other men to join him 
in an attempt to unveil some of the mysteries that still remain 
unsolved in connection with the Labrador peninsula. 

The party, as finally organized, was composed of six 
members. Edmund B. Delabarre, Ph. D., Professor of 
Psychology in Brown University, was nominally leader of 
the expedition ; in the absence of material sufficient to occupy 
him largely in his own specialty, he made a collection of 
plants and devoted his time for the most part to such exami- 
nation of them as could be accomplished by one who is 
entirely an amateur in botanical work. Reginald A. Daly, 
Ph. D., Instructor in Geology in Harvard University, made a 
thorough and efficient geological and physiographical exami- 
nation of the coast ; prosecuted systematic studies of the tem- 
perature, salinity, and currents of the ocean, and sounded and 
charted Nachvak Bav. The other four men were all under- 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 71 

graduates from Harvard. Huntington Adams organized 
and provisioned the expedition most efficiently, kept the 
meteorological records, and studied the economic mineral- 
ogy of the regions visited. In the latter work he was assisted 
by Lewis B. McCornick. Henry B. Bigelow proved an ex- 
cellent ornithologist. Henry W. Palmer engaged in no 
scientific work, but was attracted chiefly by the hope of sport 
and adventure. 

On account of the limited resources of the party, the 
expedition v^as made in a sailing vessel instead of in a steamer. 
This subjected it to numerous delays and made the trip so 
slow that there was little time for the much desired explora- 
tion of the northern extremity of the country ; but it proved a 
fortunate feature in that it insured a thorough and detailed 
examination of the coast greater than that of any previous 
scientific expedition. 

The ship secured for the voyage was the "Brave," a 
forty-ton fishing schooner owned by J. M. Butler, of St. 
John's, Newfoundland. She had just been entirely rebuilt, 
and was therefore new and clean, and well adapted to the 
needs of our small party. Her captain was Abram Batten, 
of Bareneed, Conception Bay — a very efficient man, skillful 
and trustworthy, and thoroughly familiar with the Labrador 
coast. Besides him, our crew consisted of a cook and two 
seamen, to whose willing and able service we owe much of 
the success of the expedition. It may encourage other 
attempts similar to ours to know that all the regular expenses 
of the trip, including hire and provisioning of vessel, pay of 
captain and crew, and such extra equipment and provisioning 
as we ourselves furnished, amounted to only about $1,200 for 
the entire party of six. 



y2 Report of the Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 

We left St. John's at 2.30 in the afternoon of Monday, June 
25th. In beating out between the high cliffs that stand on 
either side of the narrow entrance to its magnificent harbor, 
the unsteady winds characteristic of the place nearly caused 
us to drift upon the rocks and thus end our trip at the very 
start. Outside we found a strong breeze from the south that 
sent us well along on our way before it began to fail in the 
evening. During the night and following day we made but 
little progress, and came to anchor in the harbor of Greens- 
pond Island, in Bonavista Bay, at 8.30 in the evening of the 
26th. A prolonged easterly gale detained us here five days. 
On July 2d, at 3.45 a. m., we again got under way, anchored 
that night off Change Island, sailed through the next day 
and night, and at noon of July 4th were off Cape Bauld, the 
northern extreme of Newfoundland. Fog and calms frus- 
trated an attempt to continue across the Straits of Belle Isle, 
so we beat back and came to anchor in Kirpon Harbor, just 
to the west of Cape Bauld. The distance thus far from St. 
John's was about 330 miles. 

At Kirpon Harbor we were imprisoned eight days by 
ice-floes. On the morning following our arrival we discov- 
ered that the Straits were filled wdth ice from one shore to the 
other, a width of some 25 miles, and in length as far as we 
could see. A day later the harbor also was blocked. A 
large number of other vessels — probably as many as three or 
four hundred, according to Captain Batten — were also de- 
tained in this and neighboring harbors, awaiting an oppor- 
tunity to cross to the Labrador fishing grounds. We occu- 
pied the time in excursions over the ice and about the neigii- 
borhood on shore, and in familiarizing ourselves with the 
details of our scientific work. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 73 

At last, on Friday, July 13th, the way before us lay clear, 
and we crossed to the Labrador coast, making our first an- 
chorage that evening in St. Lewis Sound, between Hare 
Island and Little Caribou — a run of 43 miles. We went 
ashore at once on Great Caribou Island and made botanical 
and geological observations. Almost every subsequent 
evening during our trip, and many entire days, when un- 
favorable winds made it impossible to proceed, we had simi- 
lar opportunities for work. Inasmuch as a summary of this 
work and a description of the scenery of the coast will be 
given in later pages, the chief features of the remainder of the 
trip may now be presented in very brief form, except when 
incidents of especial interest demand fuller detail. 

July 14. — Started at 5.30 a. m., but were unable to get 
outside of St. Lewis Sound on account of fog and of ice 
blocking the entrance. Return, and anchor off Assizes 
Island at 9.30 a. m., having sailed 13 miles. 

July 15. — Ice-floes throughout the harbor. Remain at 
anchor, but row up St. Charles River for exploration and 
wood. 

July 16. — No wind. Some of the party visit Battle 
Harbor. 

July 17. — Start 4 a. m. and run 65 miles. Little ice, and 
much scattered. Anchor 6.30 p. m. in bight at southwest end 
of Seal Island. 

July 18. — Delayed by high north wind. 

July 19. — North wind continues, and foggy. Some of 
the party row to Sloop Harbor and explore on the main- 
land. 

July 20. — At 11.30 A. M. again under way. Pass 
through considerable fioe-ice. Much fog during part of 



74 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expeditian. 

day. Anchor in Gready Island Harbor, 53 miles, at 10.15 
p. M. 

July 21. — Start 6 a. m. Anchor 10.10 p. m. in Pottle's 
Cove, on north side of West Bay, just to the south of the 
entrance to Hamilton Inlet. Much scattered ice. Distance, 
42 miles. 

July 22, 23. — At Pottle's Cove. Delayed one day by fog 
and unfavorable wind, the next by a desire to continue ob- 
servations here. The sandy beaches in this vicinity are the 
only ones of any extent in Labrador. Daly discovers glacial 
stride, the first evidences of glaciation he has found. 

July 24. — Cross entrance to Hamilton Inlet, making 
run to Ice Tickle, between Ice Tickle Island and Rodney 
Mundy Island, 21 miles, from 6.30 to 10.15 a. m. Little ice 
passed, much visible ahead. Wind being also against us, 
further progress through the narrow channels is impossible. 
Our first display of aurora borealis in the evening. Explore 
neighboring islands and visit Indian Harbor. 

July 25. — Contrary winds. Remain at anchor. 

July 26. — Make short run of only nine miles, because of 
shifting of wind to the north. Anchor in Sloop Harbor, be- 
tween Brig Harbor Island and Sloop Island. Very little ice 
visible. 

July 27. — Light and variable winds. Sail from 5 a. m. 
to 9.15 P. M., passing Cape Harrison, and make 51 miles. 
Anchor in Jigger Island Tickle. No ice encountered. 

July 28. — Fog and unfavorable winds. Run 32 miles 
from II A. M. to 9.25 p. M. Little ice. Anchor in an un- 
named bight on mainland northwest of Conical Island, and, 
on account of the experiences of the following day, name it 
Mosquito Bight. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 75 

July 29. — Light winds. Remain at anchor and get 
wood. Much trouble from mosquitoes. 

July 30. — Almost calm. Drift on to Pomiadluk Point, 
making only 10 miles in the entire day. Climb mountain 
above the Point, and establish its height as 1,170 feet. Many 
interesting geological features here — rochcs montonnees, con- 
glomerates, lunoid markings, etc. 

July 31. — No wind. Remain at anchor. 

August I. — Still calm. Make about three miles in eight 
hours. 

August 2. — Weigh anchor 10.30. Tow out off Pomi- 
adluk Point, and thence, with occasional light winds but 
mostly calms, make slow and slight progress. At midnight 
drifting ofT Cape Mokkovik. 

August 3. — Anchor, because of contrary winds, in Sum- 
mer Cove, Aillik Bay, at 6 a. m. Distance from last anchor- 
age, 14 miles. Adams, Daly, and Delabarre, attempting to 
land in the surf 011 a distant part of the shore, are dashed onto 
hidden reefs and wreck their rowboat. Are later rescued by 
fishermen who happen by. Boat is recovered and repaired 
the following day. Small auroral display in the even- 
ing. 

August 4, 5. — Lack of wind during the morning of the 
4th and probability of its continuance, together with general 
disinclination of our crew to sail on Sundays, decide us to 
remain here two days, explore Mokkovik Bay, and attempt 
to climb Mt. Altagaiyaivik (otherwise known as Mt. Misery 
or Monkey Hill, 2,170 feet). Mokkovik Bay is badly and 
variously charted, and it was uncertain how far it might 
extend inland, and whether or not it might interfere with 
our attempt to reach the mountain. Bigelow, Delabarre, 



76 Report of the Bromn-Ha/rvard Expedition. 

and McCornick started on this expedition in the early after- 
noon of the 4th ; sailed in a small boat four miles to the head 
of Aillik Bay, and thence walked to the south across an inter- 
vening neck to Mokkovik Bay and along the shore of the 
latter. We passed the night in our sleeping-bags on the 
shore, after walking a distance of about seven miles. On the 
following morning we continued along the west shore of 
Mokkovik to the southward for about seven miles, being then 
nearly opposite the southern end of Altagaiyaivik, which lay 
across the bay on the eastern shore. It was then evident that 
the bay stretched on for at least four miles further in a south- 
westerly direction, and that it would be impossible to get 
around it, climb the mountain, and return to the ship before 
nightfall. We therefore turned back, returning by nearly the 
same route as that by which we had come, and reached the 
ship again at 7.30 p. m. It was evident from our observa- 
tions that from Cape Mokkovik the bay stretches inland, with 
several curvings, at least 25 miles. Its general directions 
are : south, for six or seven miles ; southwest, about five miles ; 
south, about six miles ; southwest, five miles or more. Near 
the beginning of the first turn to the southwest is a recently 
estabhshed Moravian Mission station. The bay is sur- 
rounded by picturesque hills, of which Altagaiyaivik, 2,170 
feet, is apparently the highest. Its shores in many places are 
well wooded, the spruce growing to the height of about 50 
feet. 

August 6. — A fair run of 42 miles, between 5 a. m. and 
6.30 p. M., brought us to the Moravian station at Hopedale. 
We were courteously received by the missionaries, and found 
our first mail awaiting us. 

August 7. — Start at 5.30 a. m. and run 53 miles, anchor- 



C Mo*/ion/l 



Aillik 

and 

Mokkovik> Bays 

Oraivn parf/y from /Id/rura/ry C/tarfj 
ardparr/y /rvm />erso/>i7/ oijerfor/on 



Magnetic [/ar/arion 
aiour 4rj/i/ 



#/ 




The accompanying chart embodies the results of our observations. 
Although not based on a careful survey with accurate instruments, but 
constructed by the cruder methods of visual impressions, compass- 
directions for the shore-lines traversed, and estimate of distances by 
the rate of walking, yet it is given as being more accurate than hitherto- 
published charts. Comparison of this with others, as, for mstance, 
Bryant's map of this section (adapted from Proceedings of tfve Royal 
Geographical Society, 1888), published with this report, will show how 
varied and unauthoritative the latter are, and how great is the need 
of careful work of this sort. Even such a cursory survey as ours could 
greatly improve the recorded outlines of the islands and coast in hun- 
dreds of places; and accurate work by experienced men would be ot 
much value to the numerous vessels that frequent this coast. 



E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. jy 

ing at 6 p. m. in Quirk (or Draw Bucket) Tickle, a little to the 
west of Kikkertaksoak (Spracklings Island). 

August 8. — Leave 6.15 a. m. Light winds, becoming 
almost calm. At 5.15 p. m, anchor in Ford Harbor, Paul's 
Island^ 26 miles. Mr. Ford informs us that the northern 
end of the ice-sheet passed here about a week ago. We 
ourselves have seen no floe-ice since July 28, and encounter 
none during remainder of trip. 

August 9. — Almost absolute calm. Drift about all day, 
and make only about three miles. Anchor just outside of 
Ford Harbor. 

August 10. — Start 7 a. m. Calm in morning, light wind 
in afternoon. Anchor at 8 p. m. at Black Island, 20 miles. 
Two settlers here, George Webb and Chestry Ford, arrange 
to take us on hunting expeditions, one on Black Island, 
known to contain a herd of caribou, and one near Port Man- 
vers. 

August II. — Day opens calm and foggy. Bigelow and 
Palmer start early with Ford to hunt on Black Island. 
Adams and McCornick set out in skiff with Webb for Port 
Manvers. Schooner starts 11. 15, overtakes and picks up 
second party, and anchors in Port Manvers, 5.30 p. m., 18 
miles. 

August 12. — Adams, Delabarre, McCornick, and Webb 
hunt on mainland. Secure a black bear and a caribou before 
noon. Other party arrives from Black Island at 9.15 p. m., 
after a wet, cold, and difficult all-day sail in a trap-skiff and 
a narrow escape from shipwreck. 

August 13. — Bigelow and McCornick decide to stay in 
a small hut at Port Manvers until our return from the north. 
We land supplies, then start 10.45 ^- ^^ sailing 28 miles to 
Cutthroat Tickle, where anchor at 8.45 p. m. 



78 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

August 14. — High northwest wind, diminishing in force. 
Start 1 1. 1 5 A. M. Complete calm after 7 p. m., and tow the 
ship from 8.30 p. m. to 12.20, when we anchor in bight on 
south side of Mugford Tickle. Distance made, 28 miles. 

August 15. — Absolute calm. Remain at anchor. 

August 16, 17. — Start 9.30 a. m. Light wind through 
Mugford Tickle, calm almost all the rest of the day and the 
following morning. Northerly gale arises about noon of 
17th, making it impossible to round Cape Saglek, so we put 
into Hebron Harbor, anchoring 3.30 p. m., 45 miles from 
Mugford. Visit missionaries at the station. 

August 18. — Northerly gale continues. Remain at an- 
chor at Hebron. Missionaries tell us of a practicable route 
overland to Nachvak, about a hundred miles distant. Adams 
and Delabarre decide to take it, leaving Daly and Palmer to 
continue in the schooner. 

August 19. — Adams and Delabarre start on their over- 
land trip, which is specially described later (in Section HI). 
Ship remains at anchor, with wind light and unfavorable. 

August 20, 21. — Ship starts 10.30 a. m. Wind light 
and often failing, and remain out all night. Wind still light 
the following day, and finally towing is necessary. At 6 
p. M. anchor in bight on north shore of Nachvak Bay, three 
miles west of the narrows, having sailed 76 miles from 
Hebron. 

August 22. — Start 9.45 a. m. and proceed with light 
winds 15 miles west through Nachvak Bay to Kipsimarvik, 
where is a station of the Hudson's Bay Company, of which 
George Ford is agent. Anchor here 4.30 p. m. 

August 23 to September 3, inclusive, 12 days, the ship 
remained at anchor close by Mr. Ford's house, in Nachvak 
Bay. We were received with great cordiality by Mr. Ford, 



E. B. Dclaharre, Ph. D. 79 

and we owe much to his kindly hospitaHty during our stay. 
This was the most northerly point reached by the expedition. 
Adams and Delabarre arrived August 26th. The time was 
spent in making as thorough an exploration as possible of 
the bay and its surroundings. In particular, the bay was 
sounded and charted, geological and botanical examinations 
were made of the surrounding country, and measurements 
of the heights of some of the neighboring mountains. Low- 
lying clouds, which prevailed during most of our stay, un- 
fortunately made it impossible to accomplish as much of the 
latter kind of work as we desired. A description is given 
later (Section IV) of the bay and of the most important 
ascent made. September ist was set as the date for our 
departure, but lack of favorable winds delayed us until the 
4th. We would gladly have remained longer in this region, 
so grand and impressive in its scenery and affording so many 
opportunities for exploration of value ; and we also strongly 
wished to push on the short distance further to Cape Chidley, 
and to make a careful study of the interior between it and 
Nachvak. In fact, this had been one of our strongest desires 
in undertaking the expedition. But the long time consumed 
in the outward voyage and the necessity of returning for col- 
lege work obliged us to turn homeward. 

September 4. — Start 10 a. m. with light winds, and suc- 
ceed by 6.30 p. M. in saiHng only about four miles. Anchor in 
a small bight on the west shore of Ivitak (in Nachvak Bay). 

September 5, 6. — Start 7.30 a. m. of the 5th. Remain 
out all night, and anchor in Hebron Harbor, 87 miles, at 2 
p. M. of the 6th. 

September 7, 8, 9. — Unfavorable winds delay us at 
Hebron. Snow falls all the afternoon of the 8th. 



8o Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

September lo. — Hebron (6 a. m.) to Cutthroat Tickle 
(5 p. M.), 71 miles. 

September 11. — Start 7.30 a. m. At 10 a. m. arrive off 
Port Manvers and attempt to beat in ; but outgoing tide and 
unfavorable wind prevent. Continue on, therefore, to Black 
Island, to inquire if Webb and Ford there have any recent 
knowledge of the two we left at Manvers. Return later to 
Port Manvers, anchoring therein at 5 p. m. Bigelow and 
McCornick rejoin the schooner. Their month here has been 
pleasant and uneventful. Distance sailed, to-day, 66 miles. 

September 12. — Port Manvers (11.30 a. m.) to John's 
Harbor, near south end of Aulatsivik (8 p. m.), 30 miles. 

September 13. — John's Harbor (7 a. m.) to Nain (5 
p. M.), 23 miles. We put into Nain instead of continuing 
directly southward, for the purpose of visiting a mine of lab- 
radorite on Taber's Island^ a dozen miles from Nain. At 
Nain we found Dr. Grenfell, of the Labrador Medical Mis- 
sion, who kindly offered to take us in his steamer, the "Strath- 
cona," to Taber's Island on the following day. Of Dr. Gren- 
fell and his splendidly conducted mission I shall speak again 
(Section VI). The generous courtesy he showed us is char- 
acteristic of the man, and was a great saving of time to us. 

September 14. — Schooner proceeds to Ford Harbor, 20 
miles. Members of expedition accompany Dr. Grenfell to 
Taber's Island, where specimens of labradorite are secured, 
and rejoin the schooner in the afternoon at Ford Harbor. 

September 15. — Ford Harbor (5 a. m.) to Quirk Tickle 
(5 p. M.), 26 miles. 

September 16. — Quirk Tickle (6.30 a. m.) to Hopedale 
(4 p. M.), 53 miles. Secure our first mail and papers since 
our previous call here, August 6th. 




View to tiic North from a Hill above Hopedale: a typical 
southern landscape. 



^WfWdF^: 




The Kiglapait. 



E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 8i 

September 17. — Remain at anchor at Hopedale. 

September 18. — Hopedale (6 a. m.) to Sloop Harbor, off 
Brig Harbor Island (9.45 p. m.), 125 miles. 

September 19. — Sloop Harbor (5.30 a. m.) to Mullin's 
Cove, on mainland south of Gready Island (7.30 p. m.), 63 
miles. The distance covered during these last two days re- 
quired 17 days during the northward voyage. 

September 20. — Mullin's Cove (5.45 a. m.) to American 
Tickle, Seal Islands (3.30 p. m.), 49 miles. 

September 21. — Southerly winds keep us at anchor. 

September 22. — American Tickle (5 a. m.) to Cape St. 
Francis Harbor (4 p. m.), 42 miles. 

September 23, 24. — Detained by unfavorable winds. 

September 25, 26. — Leave Cape St. Francis 6 a. m. 
Cross the Straits of Belle Isle. Wind drops in afternoon, 
and we beat along off Cape Bauld and White Islands all 
night. Fresh wind from the south causes us to anchor at 
Grand Brehat, Newfoundland, at 7.30 a. m. of the 26th. Dis- 
tance, 78 miles. 

September ly. — At anchor. 

September 28. — Leave Grand Brehat 7 a. m. At noon, 
on account of thick, foggy weather and other unfavorable 
conditions, anchor in harbor of Cape Rouge (or Crouse), 40 
miles. 

September 29, 30. — Detained by unfavorable winds. 

October i, 2. — Start 2 a. m. and take six hours to get out 
of the harbor. A favorable wind is met outside, and we cover 
the 268 miles to St. John's in 40 hours. Are well within the 
harbor by midnight of the 2d, and come to anchor there a 
half hour later. 

It was with great surprise that we learned, soon after our 



82 Report of Uie Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

arrival, of the undue prominence that had been given to our 
expedition in the newspapers. They had taken advantage 
of our lateness in returning, and of a hurricane that had re- 
cently wrought much havoc on the Newfoundland coast, to 
proclaim that we were probably lost. There was no founda- 
tion whatever for their sensational accounts. We had not 
encountered the hurricane, nor otherwise been in peril. 

The voyage on the whole was one of great pleasure and 
profit. The wild, mountainous scenery of the coast alone 
would have repaid us. The slowness of our progress made 
impossible of accomplishment some of our original projects; 
but it really interfered with very few of them, and, on the 
other hand, it helped far more than it hindered. To it is 
due the fact that we examined the coast in a more thorough 
and detailed manner than had previously been accomplished, 
and thus made a considerable number of observations and 
discoveries of scientific interest, particularly along geological 
lines. The results of our work will be given in Section VII 
and following. 



II 

SUMMARY OF THE VOYAGE, AND METEOROLOGICAL CON- 
DITIONS. 

A considerable portion of the data about to be g^ven 
is derived from observations of such a nature that there can 
be no question as to their accuracy. But others depend upon 
the records of more or less faulty apparatus, and the tables 
summarizing these records cannot lay claim to any high 
degree of value. Tliey may serve to give a fairly good gen- 
eral idea of the conditions under which the trip was made; 



E. B. Detabarre, Ph. D. 83 

but they cannot be used as a basis for calculations or deduc- 
tions where a close approximation to absolute accuracy is 
essential. None of the members of the expedition had had 
previous experience in the taking of meteorological records ; 
there was no opportunity before the start to visit Washing- 
ton for the purpose of obtaining reliable instruments and 
instruction in their use ; and the time of the members during 
the trip was so often devoted to other scientific interests that 
there was a considerable amount of irregularity in making 
these observations. Records were kept, however, with such 
regularity as was possible, in spite of the imperfection of the 
instruments, mainly for the satisfaction of the members of 
the party. Realizing that they contain a high and indeter- 
minable degree of error, I have had some doubt as to the 
expediency of publishing them. It has been suggested, how- 
ever, that they may not be absolutely without value, and so 
they are given out with these words of caution as to their 
reliability. 

The expedition left St. John's in the "Brave" on the 
afternoon of June 25th, and re-arrived at St. John's just after 
midnight of the morning of October 3d. The voyage was 
thus finished on the looth day after the departure. On the 
northward journey, 18 days were passed in Newfoundland; 
41 days, from July 13th to August 22d, in going along the 
Labrador from the Straits of Belle Isle to Nachvak Bay. 
On the return, 22 days, from September 4th to September 
25th, were passed on the Labrador, and seven days on the 
Newfoundland coast. It thus took 59 days to make the north- 
ward journey; 12 days were devoted to the stay at Nachvak; 
and 29 days were required for the return. The southward 
trip was accomplished in about half the time of the north- 



84 Report of the Brozvn-Harvard Expedition. 

ward. During one day of the return (September i8th), a 
distance was covered that had occupied, on account of un- 
favorable winds alone, 1 1 days in going north ; and on the 
following day a distance to which six days had previously 
been devoted. The other gains were smaller. 

The total distance sailed was about 2,100 miles, of which 
not far from 1,400 were along the Labrador coast in the two 
directions. The rate of travel, counting only the days on 
which some progress was made, averaged 2)Z^ miles a day 
on the way north, 55 miles on the way south, and about 42 
miles for both together. 

It was possible to sail at all on only about half the days 
devoted to the voyage ; and very nearly the same proportion 
held for both the outward and the return voyage. Of the 
days during which some progress w^as made, from one-third 
to one-half were so unfavorable that a distance of less than 
25 miles was covered. Thus, on the journey north, of the 
59 days, only 31 permitted any sailing at all (and two of these 
were without any real advance), only 25 saw a greater dis- 
tance covered than 15 miles, and only 22 more than 25 miles. 
On the return, during 19 days of the 29, some distance was 
made, during 16 more than 15 miles, during only 14 more 
than 25 miles. Going north (59 days), detention was due : 
to ice-floes, 9 days (the ice proving a serious obstacle to 
progress on several other days also), to unfavorable winds, 
17 days, and to voluntary delay, 2 days. On 6 other days a 
distance of less than 15 miles was covered. This makes a 
total, not including the two days of voluntary detention, of 
32 unfavorable days (more than half) on which it was impos- 
sible to progress at least 15 miles. Going south (32 days, 
counting 3 at Nachvak, on which it had been planned to sail), 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 8$ 

unfavorable winds prevented sailing on 13 days and pre- 
vented progress of at least 15 miles on 3 additional days — a 
total of 16 unfavorable days, or exactly one-half. 

The two chief obstacles to progress were thus the large 
floes of ice streaming southward along the coast, and winds 
contrary in direction or insufficient in force. The last 
trouble from the ice was on July 24, at Ice Tickle; the last 
day on which we saw any floe-ice at all was July 28 ; and Ford, 
of Paul's Island, said that the northern end of the ice-sheet 
passed Ford Harbor about the ist of August. The prevail- 
ing winds were from the northerly and southerly quarters. 
During the northward voyage, nearly half the winds (44 per 
cent.) were northerly, and only 25 per cent, southerly. 
During the return, about 30 per cent, were from the north 
and 31 per cent, from the south. 

According to the Newfoundland and Labrador Pilot, 
"■gales are stated to be frequent and violent" on the Labrador 
coast. The expedition encountered but one or two of any 
considerable force, during which it was safely in harbor. 
The Pilot further says that calms are of short duration, "rarely 
lasting more than one day." About 14 per cent, of the ob- 
servations taken during the entire trip recorded no wind at 
all. If we group among the calm days those on which less 
than 15 miles could be sailed, as well as those when the wind 
was insufficient to permit any sailing at all, then 25 per cent, 
of all the days during the northerly voyage were calm, and 
there were many more when it was calm during a portion of 
the day. About the same proportion held for the voyage 
southward. These calm days came quite as frequently sev- 
eral in succession as singly. 

The following table gives in their order from St. John's 
northward the different harbors at which we touched, the 



86 



Report of the Brozvn-Harvard Expedition. 



date of our arrival (except St. John's outward and Hudson's 
Bay Post, Nachvak, homeward, when it is the date of the 
departure), and the approximate distances from the last pre- 
vious station (to be read downward for the outward and up- 
ward for the homeward trip) : — 



TABLE I. 

LOCATION OF THE "BRAVE" THROUGHOUT THE VOYAGE. 



2 

3 
4 
5 
6 

7 
8 

9 
lo 
II 

12 

13 
14 
15 

i6 

17 
i8 

19 

20 



23 

24 

25 
26 

27 
28 

29 

30 
31 
32 

33 
34 



STATIONS * 



St. John's, N. F., 

Greenspond Island, N. F., 

Change Island, N. F., 

Cape Rouge, N. F. , 

Grand Brehat, N. F., 

Kirpon Harbor, N. F., 

Hare Island, Lab., 

Assizes Harbor, 

Cape St. Francis Harbor, 

American Tickle, 

Seal Island, 

Mullin's Cove, 

Gready Island, 

Pottle's Cove, West Bay, 

Ice Tickle, 

Sloop Harbor, Brig Harbor Island, . . 

Jigged Island, 

Mosquito Bight (unnamed on chart ; west 
of Adlavik Islands), 

Pomiadluk Point, 

AillikBay, 

Hopedale, 

Quirk (or Draw Bucket) Tickle, . . . 

Ford Harbor, 

Ford Run, 

Nain, 

John's Harbor, 

Black Island Harbor, 

Port Manvers, 

Cutthroat Tickle, 

Mugford Tickle, 

Hebron, 

Skynner's Cove, Nachvak Bay, .... 

Ivitak, Nachvak Bay, 

Hudson's Bay Post (Kipsimarvik), Nach- 
vak Bay, 



OUT- 
WARD 



June 25 
June 26 
July 2 



July 4 

July 13 

July 14 



July 17 



July 20 

July 21 

July 24 

July 26 

July 27 

July 28 
July 30 
Aug. 3 
Aug. 6 
Aug. 7 
Aug. 8 
Aug. 9 



Aug. 10 
Aug. II 
Aug. 13 
Aug. 14 
Aug. 17 
Aug. 21 



Aug. 22 



DIS- 
TANCE 



109 
60 



150 

43 



65 

53 
42 
21 

9 
51 

32 
14 
14 

42 

53 
26 

3 



23 
18 
28 
28 

45 
76 



15 



HOME- 
WARD 



Oct. 



Sept. 28 
Sept. 25 



Sept. 22 
Sept. 20 

Sept. 19 



Sept. 18 



Sept. 16 

Sept. 15 

Sept. 14 

Sept. 13 

Sept. 12 

(Sept. II) 

Sept. II 

Sept. 10 

Sept. 6 

Sept. 4 

Sept. 4 



DIS- 
TANCE 



268 



40 

78 



42 
49 

63 



125 



53 
26 



23 
30 

"28 
71 

87 

4 



* The authoritative spelling of some of these names is doubtful. 
Different charts do not always agree with one another, nor with the 
Newfoundland and Labrador Pilot. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 87 

Sun, Rain, and Snozv. — There was a fairly even propor- 
tion of sun and rain. About one-fourth of the days were 
wholly sunny; only about one-third of them were without 
any sunshine at all. Very nearly half of the days had some 
rain, though of these only 6 were rainy all day. The amount 
of rain that fell was not large. Usually there occurred only 
light showers or drizzle, and there was not a single really 
heavy rainfall. Snow fell only once at sea-level, on Septem- 
ber 8th. There were no thunder showers, though once or 
twice single faint claps of thunder were heard, no lightning 
being visible. The first half of the trip was more rainy than 
the rest of it. Of the 49 days to August 12th, only 15 were 
without rain, and 3 of these were overcast. The longest 
periods without rain were 9 days from August 13th to August 
2ist, 3 of which were overcast; and 7 days from September 
9th to September 15th, none of them wholly overcast. The 
longest period of overcast skies consisted of 10 successive 
days, from August 28th to September 6th, on 4 of which 
there was rain, and on 2 a very small amount of sun. 

These observations compare with others accessible to us 
as follows : The Pilot speaks of "the few fine days of summer." 
Low (Explorations in the Labrador Peninsula, 1886, p. 29), re- 
marks : "During the summer season the precipitation, if not 
great, is constant, as a day rarely passes without drizzle, or 
thunder showers, which lower the temperature." Yet 
Bryant (Journey to the Grand Falls of Labrador) speaks of 
only 10 of the 41 days from August 4 to September 13, 1891, 
as rainy, 3 as having occasional showers, and one as cloudy — 
the remaining 27 being presumably largely sunny. During 
the same period as Bryant, we, on the coast to the north of 
Hamilton Inlet, had 15 days with more or less rain, though 
of these 6 had a large proportion of sunshine ; and there were 



88 



Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 



lo others that were wholly or predominantly cloudy. Low's 
observations were made in a part of the country for the most 
part very different from that of our own expedition. In 
1893, between August 13th and September 30th, his journey- 
ings corresponded most nearly with our own, covering the 
territory from the Upper Koksoak to Chimo, around to the 
Atlantic coast, and south to Rigolet; and of the 48 days, 5 
had rain and about 20 others were overcast (clouds 7 or more 
on a scale of 10). In 1894, between July ist and August 
24th, he was on the Upper Hamilton, among the lakes, and 
on the Romaine River south to Mingan ; of the 55 days, there 
was rain on 36 and 7 were overcast. In 1895, July ist to 
September 2d, in the vicinity of the Manicouagan River, of 
the 64 days, 46 were rainy. All authorities agree as to the 
small amount of annual precipitation. 

These comparisons are summarized in the following 
table. In considering the comparisons, one must remember 
that the observations of Low and Bryant were made for the 
most part in the interior, in the localities above mentioned, 
while ours were made on the coast ; and that some error may 
arise from my interpretation of their records, the terms used 
by them not being identical with those given here : — 

TABLE II. 

SUNNY, OVERCAST, AND RAINY DAYS. 





Bryant. 

Aug. 4- 

Sept. 13, 

1891. 


Low. 


" Brave." 




Aug. 13- 

sept. 30, 

1893. 


July I- 

Aug. 24, 

1894. 


July I- 

Sept.2, 

1895. 


June 25- 

Oct. 2, 

1900. 


Days wholly or largely sunny, .... 
Days largely overcast, without rain, . . 
Days mainly sunny, with some rain, . 
Days mainly overcast, with some rain, . 
Days predominantly rainy, 


27 
10 


23 
20 

5 


12 

7 
36 


18 
46 


30 

19 
16 
28 

7 


Total days, 


41 


48 


55 


64 


100 







E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 



89 



Our own observations can be presented best in another 
series of tables, as follows : — 



TABLE III. 

SUNSHINE AND RAIN. 







DAYTIME 






DAYTIME 




RAIN 

EVENINGS 

ONLY 




WHOLLY 


PARTLY 


WITHOUT 


WHOLLY 


PARTLY 


WITHOUT 




SUNNY 


SUNNY 


SUN 


RAINY 


RAINY 


RAIN 




June 25-30, .... 


I 


I 


4 


I 


3 


2 


2 


July 1-15, . 






2 


7 


6 


3 


7 


5 


2 


July 16-31 . 






3 


9 


4 


I 


9 


6 


5 


Aug. 1-15, . 






4 


8 


3 





9 


6 


5 


Aug. 16-31, . 






5 


6 


5 





5 


II 


I 


Sept. 1-15, . 






6 


4 


5 





3 


12 


I 


Sept. 16-30, . 






5 


6 


4 


I 


5 


9 


2 


Oct. 1-2, . 






I 





I 








2 





Total, 


27 


41 


32 


6 


41 


53 


18 



TABLE IV. 

FREQUENCY OF CLOUDS. 



PARTLY 
CLOUDY 



June 25-30, 

July 1-15, 

July 16-31, 

Aug. 1-15, 

Aug. 16-31, 

Sept. 1-15, 

Sept. 16-30, 
Oct. 1-2, 

Total, . . 



33 



5 
7 
9 
6 

7 
7 
5 
o 

46 



TABLE V. 

NUMBER OF FOGGY DAYS (LABRADOR ONLY). 



SLIGHT OR 
DISTANT FOG 



THICK 


NO 


FOG 


RECORD 


3 





I 





I 


5 


2 


3 


I 


I 








8 


9 



THICK FOG 
ALL DAY 



July 14-31, 

Aug. I -1 5, 

Aug. 16-31, 

Sept. 1-15, 

Sept. 16-25, 

Total, . 



7 
9 
7 
7 
7 

37 



Total days, less repetitions of Column 5, 67. 



90 Report of tlw Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

Temperature. — In spite of the cold Arctic current that 
sweeps southward along these shores, the summer was, on 
the whole, very comfortable and fairly uniform in tempera- 
ture. The observations made by the expedition suffered 
considerably in accuracy from the fact that the thermometers 
used were not wholly reliable, and from the impossibility of 
finding on the ship any situation where the instruments could 
be wholly shaded from the sun and have free circulation of 
air about them. To some extent the observations could be 
corrected by the aid of other observations made at irregular 
intervals for other purposes by Dr. Daly, using a thoroughly 
reliable thermometer. The results thus attained, while not 
entirely accurate, are yet of some value in judging the sum- 
mer temperature of the Labrador coast. The highest tem- 
perature recorded by the instruments was 78° ; the probably 
highest actual (corrected) temperature was 72°. The lowest 
temperature was 30.5°. The average was 46°. There were 
only five days recorded, and probably only one actually, when 
the maximum exceeded 70°. On about 33 days, or one-third 
of all, the maximum was less than 50°. On only 6 days was 
the minimum below 32°, but on 45 days it was below 40°. 
The average daily range of temperature was 13°, the highest 
range 25.5°, the lowest 4.5°. 

Of the temperature in the interior, north of Lake Mis- 
tassini. Low says that 80° is exceeded on only a few days 
during the summer season; that 45° below zero appears to 
be the minimum winter temperature of most years ; and that 
the mean temperature at the lake in 1885 was: for June 
53.1°, for July 59.9° (ours was 46.2°), and for August 56.7° 
(ours 49.4°). Bryant found the minimum temperature for 
his journey 29°, the maximum 82°, the mean minimum 42° 



E. B. Delaharrc, Ph. D. gi 

(ours for about the same period was about 41°), and the mean 
maximum 58° (ours 57°). Wakeham (Report of Expedition 
in Steamship "Diana" in iSgy), from June 27 to October 9, 
1897, found a maximum temperature of 79°, a minimum of 
27°, and a mean of 43.1°. According to the Pilot, the mean 
temperature in 1875 for the coast between Cape Porcupine 
and Nain was : in July 46.5° (ours 46.2°), in August 50.3° 
(ours 49.4°), in September 44.5° (ours 43.1°). 

Our daily temperature-readings are not possessed of a 
sufficiently assured and complete accuracy to make it desir- 
able to give them in full. Grouped together by half-months, 
the records, corrected so that they are fairly reliable, yield 
the results seen in the following table. The maxima and 
minima were given by a recording themometer, a modifica- 
tion of Sixe's type (similar to the Miller-Casella instruments). 
The daily range of temperature was obtained from this instru- 
ment by determining the difTerence between its recorded 
maximum for the day and minimum for the night. Average 
(i) was obtained by determining the daily mean of the maxi- 
mum-minimum records. Average (2) was calculated from 
three daily readings at stated hours. The corrections were 
made by comparison of the records of the regularly used 
thermometers with those occasionally taken with great care 
by aid of a fully-tested and corrected centigrade thermometer 
loaned to Dr. Daly by the United States Coast and Geodetic 
Survey, which, unfortunately, had to be used most of the time 
for other purposes, and hence was not available for these 
daily observations. 

Comparison of our averaged results with those of other 
expeditions, as quoted above, seems to indicate that our 
degree of error was not so large as to destroy altogether 
the value of the table here given. 



92 



Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 



TABLE VI. 

TEMPERATURE. 



June 27-30, . 

July i-iS, . 

July 16-31, . 

Aug. 1-15, . 

Aug. 16-31, . 
Sept. 1-15, . 

Sept. 16-30, . 

Oct. 1-2, . 
June 27-Oct. 2, 



MAXIMUM 



64 

68 
68.5 
72 
62 

57 
62 

54 
72 



MINIMUM 



48. 5 

34-5 

34.5 

38 

35-5 

30.5 

30-5 

41-5 

30-5 



DAILY 
RANGE 



II. 2 
12.6 
12.5 

iS-7 
II. 6 
10.9 
12.8 

"•5 
12.7 



AVERAGE 
(I) 



55 

46.4 

46.4 

50-4 

47-9 

41 

44.4 



AVERAGE 



55.8 

46 

46.4 

SO. 7 

47.S 

43-7 

44-5 



46.3 46.9 



Relative Humidity. — The hygrometer at our disposal for 
the measurement of the relative humidity of the air was very 
imperfect, and its findings are uncertain as to their value. 
Its readings, however, corrected by later comparison of 
our hygrometer with another reliable instrument, furnish 
the following conclusions, which can be regarded as having 
only a relative value: The maximum humidity was 100, 
the minimum 27.5, the mean 82. July was most moist, 
with a mean of 93. August was dryest, with 76. September 
had a humidity of about 80. Of our 245 observations, only 
T^y were as low as 65, and of these only eight were as low as 
50, and only two 40 or under ; 162 were 80 or more ; 127 were 
90 or more. 

Pressure. — The barometric pressure ranged from 29.28 
to 30.75, with a mean of 29.82. Wakeham, in 1897, between 
June 27 and October 9, experienced a range from 29.31 
to 30.37, with a mean of 29.82. On only three occasions up 
to September 22 did the barometer rise above 30.20, one of 
these occasions covering three days. From September 22 
on, it was above 30.20 almost constantly, dropping below it 



E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 



93 



for two short periods only. On six occasions, two of them 
covering three days each, it fell below 29.50. 

The records from June 2"/ to July 15, inclusive, are 
from the ship's aneroid, which was neither compensated nor 
tested, and which reads from i-io to 3-10 lower than the 
other. The records for these dates are therefore inclosed in 
parentheses in the table. Records after July 15 are from a 
far more reliable compensated aneroid (Thaxter, Boston), 
reading to 5,000 feet. The latter was compared under widely 
varying pressures with the standard mercurial at Cambridge, 
Mass., from which it was found to vary but very slightly. It 
was also subjected to frequent tests by Dr. Daly during the 
trip, by means of comparisons with measured heights and 
with other barometers, and found to possess a high degree 
of accuracy. 



TABLE VII. 

PRESSURE. 



June 27-30, . . 

July 1-15, . . 

July 16-31, . . 

Aug. 1-15, . . 

Aug. 16-31, . . 

Sept. I-IS, . . 
Sept. 16-30, . 

Oct. 1-2, . . 
June 27-Oct. 2, 



29.65 
30.00 
30.16 
30.24 
30.38 
30.21 
30.36 
30.7s 
30.75 



29-54 
(29.11 
29.56 
29-43 
29-55 
29.28 
29.32 
30.18 
29.28 



AVERAGE 



(29 

(29 

29 

29 
29 
29 
29 



59) 
57) 
86 
76 

97 
68 

95 



29.82 



III. 
OVERLAND FROM HEBRON TO NACHVAK. 

Hebron Harbor is situated near the entrance to Kan- 
gerdluksoak, a narrow bay extending many miles to the west- 
ward into the interior of Labrador at about latitude 58° 



94 Report of tlw Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 

north. About a hundred miles north of it is Nachvak Bay, 
also long- and narrow. Between them the coast is much in- 
dented, containing a host of small bays, and also two of 
larger size — Saglek* and Nullatartok. At the entrance to the 
latter is situated Ramah, the most northerly of the Moravian 
Missions in Labrador. The intervening country is traversed 
never, probably, by white men, unless a portion of it in the 
winter by dog"-sledge,t but not infrequently by Eskimos, who 
have regular routes across it. Transportation across the 
bays is easy to secure because of a summer fishing settlement 
of Eskimos on the shore of Saglek, of the mission station at 
Ramah, and of the Hudson's Bay Company's post at Nach- 
vak. 

These facts we learned from Mr. Townley, one of the 
missionaries at Hebron. Adams and the writer, eager to 
do some interior exploration, decided to make this trip, 
leaving the schooner to go on when it could to Nachvak. 
We secured as guide Amandus, a young Eskimo, who knew 
the way as far as Ramah. For his services we were to pay 
fifty cents a day and provide him with food, tobacco, and 
transportation in the schooner back to Hebron. 

The morning of Sunday, August 19, was devoted to 
preparations for departure. Of provisions we took enough 
for a week, consisting chiefly of compressed emergency 
ration and ship's biscuit. Our further equipment included 



* More commonly spelled Saeglek. 

t The dog-sledges for the most part travel on the ice along the coast. 
One white man, named Colley, is said to have walked, a number of years 
ago, along the entire coast from far south through Hebron to Nachvak, 
and thence across to George River. Nothing is known of his ante- 
cedents or real purpose; he claimed to be in search of a brother. He 
was probably mentally unsound, and at George River he committed 
suicide. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 95 

sleeping bags, camera, aneroid barometer, thermometer, and 
rifles. At 2 p. m., local time (forty minutes behind St. John's 
time), we set oitt from the schooner. Our first ten miles 
were made in a trap-skiff, westward through Kangerdluksoak 
Bay, in order to get to the rear of Mt. Johannes, which rose 
in our way a little back of the mission house. Our crew, 
consisting of Amandus, his brother, and two small Eskimo 
boys about ten years old, were very merry, continually laugh- 
ing, joking, and singing, and showing themselves sturdy and 
willing workers. We found these excellent qualities in 
Amandus throughout the trip. All about the bay rose 
mountains, a few of them precipitously from the water's edge. 
Those near the bay attain a height apparently of about 2,500 
feet. Most of them are rounded and glacier-worn, with 
numerous projecting and impressive knobs. Far off to the 
south a snowy peak was sometimes visible over the nearer 
heights, and to the west were other still higher summits. 

At six o'clock we landed just beyond the furthest outlying 
slopes of Johannes. From this point a low, wide valley, 
rising in the middle not more than 50 feet, stretched north- 
ward tAvo and a half miles to a small bay called Iterungnek. 
Shouldering our packs, we walked through this valley. Back 
of us the sunset was lighting up the hills, the nearer ones 
with yellow, the more distant with violet hues. We soon 
passed what our guide said were Eskimo houses — rude walls 
of stone built under a projecting rock and forming two rough 
shelters. They looked black and old, but their sombre hues 
were relieved by pink masses of fireweed flowers growing 
thickly about them. Further on, on the shore of the bay, was 
a group of ancient Eskimo graves. We rounded the head of 
the bav, skirted the shore for a little distance further, and at 



g6 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

7.35 made our camp for the night, about four miles from our 
starting point, near a small brook of clear, cold water. The 
dead branches of two-foot willows furnished us with firewood, 
and Amandus soon had our pots boiling over a very diminu- 
tive fireplace. As we crept into our sleeping-bags, after 
writing up our notes by the dim firelight, the sky was brightly 
illuminated by a fine display of northern lights, centered 
chiefly in the magnetic south. 

The night was chilly. At 4.20. when we arose, the tem- 
perature was 47°, and it rapidly became warmer. We had a 
flood of bright sunshine all day long. Our route was up and 
down hill all the way. The highest point was attained 
toward noon, at 1,560 feet. From this elevation we caught a 
glimpse of a group of bold mountains to the north, across 
Saglek Bay, some of them apparently of the so-called "house- 
roof" formation. When we stopped for lunch a little later, 
the temperature was 63°. In the early afternoon we con- 
tinued for several miles at a general elevation varying from 
1,050 to 1,160 feet, and then made a steep descent to a river 
flowing northeastwardly into Kajuktok, a portion of Saglek 
Bay. A line of hills, 1,300 feet in height, then lay before us, 
between the river and the bay. We had but just forded the 
river and begun their ascent, when we were fortunate enough 
to shoot a doe. Amandus concealed the carcass, intending 
to return for it after he reached home again; and we took 
with us a leg, which added greatly to our larder during the 
rest of the trip. Then we continued up the hill, walked on 
for a couple of miles along its nearly level summit, and at 
seven o'clock stopped for the night near its final crest. We 
had walked during the day about 16 miles. Mosquitoes were 
thick, and prevented sleep for some time. A wonderful 




Eskimo Encampment at Pangnertok. 



■■%.■■'"- r. 






/ 




Members of the Party on the Overland Trip from Hebron to Nachvak. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 97 

auroral display was some compensation for our wakefulness. 
Its mild light swept over the heavens, for the most part taking 
the form of curved vertical bands, changing and wavering. 

Our third day, August 21st, was another one of bright, 
warm sunshine. At 8.30, just before our start, the tempera- 
ture was 63°. From the crest of the hill, which we soon 
reached, we had a beautiful view toward Saglek Bay. Just 
below us was a wide, level stretch, reaching from the foot of 
our slope to Pangnertok, a branch of Saglek. To our right 
a brook tumbled down, and to the left a considerable river 
emptied into the head of Pangnertok. Beyond lay the 
waters of the bay, from whose further shore rose up the roof- 
like mountains we had first seen the previous day, with their 
almost vertical sides seamed with gullies and bare of vege- 
tation. On the flat near the mouth of the river was an Es- 
kimo encampment. We hastened down and reached it at 
ten o'clock. The little settlement consisted of two canvas 
tents and two skin topeks. The fishermen who live in them 
are Hebron Eskimos, spending the summer here for the sake 
of the trout in the nearby streams. They welcomed us with 
much hoispitality, invited us into their tents, and otherwise 
showed their interest and good-will. It was nearly 2.30 
before the tide had risen sufficiently to allow their trap-skifif 
to get out of the river into the bay. Then we set out and 
had a delightful sail, down Pangnertok under the steep face 
of Mt. Pinguksoak on the further shore, past Kajuktok, the 
bay into which empties the river crossed yesterday, into the 
main bay, and across it past the islands of Aulatsivik and 
Saglek to the northern shore. The scenery of the bay was 
strikingly beautiful, far surpassing in its wild grandeur 
any that we had seen. The mountams were everywhere 



98 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

crowded down close to the water, from which most of them 
rose up precipitously except for a short talus at the bottom ; 
and similar steep cuts extended up into the tributary valleys. 
The heights varied probably from 3,500 to 5,000 feet. We 
sailed and rowed for four hours through this gorgeous 
scenery, under a sky entirely clear except for a few high, 
fleecy clouds. Our Eskimo crew were friendly and inter- 
esting. At the end they demanded but one plug of tobacco 
apiece for their services. We landed at 6.30, and were soon 
again on the march. We had not proceeded far, however, 
before we sighted two caribou, a doe and a fawn. We 
dropped our packs and went in pursuit; but darkness inter- 
vened before we could overtake them, and so they happily 
escaped. A hard walk through soft bog and over rough 
talus brought us back to our packs, where we camped for the 
night. The auroral display was the finest we had seen. It 
covered almost the entire sky and gave a light almost as 
brilliant as moonlight. There was a great variety in the pat- 
terns it formed, with an uneasy, restless play and quivering 
of the bands, as though a light wind were blowing with enor- 
mous rapidity through a bright, thin mist. 

On Wednesday, the 22d, we arose at five o'clock. A 
thin, chill fog was in the air, and after a little it began to 
sprinkle. At 6.20 the temperature was 45°. At 6.30 we 
were started on our fourth day's journey. The valley that 
lay before us, running up into the mountains northward from 
Saglek Bay, was wide and level for the first two miles, formed 
of alluvial deposits, and then ascended gradually in a narrow 
line between steep slopes of talus. Its bottom formed the 
bed of a mountain torrent. Its eastern border was a single 
huge mass whose summit towered probably four to five thou- 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 99 

sand feet above the bay. On the west were two peaks, pre- 
senting smoothly curving faces toward the valley. Their 
great bases were somewhat convex vertically also, and were 
distinctly marked by alternating strata of different material, 
as if they were of sedimentary origin. At the head of the 
valley was another peak, similar to those on the west. 

We passed through the level plain, by a couple of small 
lakes, and then climbed slowly up the valley. Our way was 
sometimes over moss and soil, but more often over broken 
heaps of rocks of all sizes, piled in confused masses. At the 
height of 980 feet we reached a very peculiar formation. 
Between low cliff walls, thirty or forty feet apart, a smooth 
floor of fiat-topped, level boulders had been formed, descend- 
ing in a series of terraces for two or three hundred feet. It 
was doubtless formed by the pressure of slowly moving ice 
constrained within rigid walls. The surface was as flat and 
almost as compact as that of a macadamized road. A little 
beyond it the valley, which had been trending true north and 
south, turned sharply to the right. Just beyond the curve 
we stopped for lunch, about seven miles from our starting 
point. 

Our surroundings were marvelously beautiful. All 
about us towered the massive bare cliffs of the mountains. 
At the bend of the valley a foaming stream of water de- 
scended in almost vertical falls and rapids from a height far 
above. Another stream came down the upper stretch of the 
valley into which we had turned. At our feet lay a deep, 
clear pool, fed from a snowbank lying between narrow walls 
of rock. Here we were well sheltered from the wind, which 
had been strong and chilling all the morning. While we 
were lunching the sky cleared and the sun came out, and the 



lOO Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

rest of the day was warmer and more pleasant. At 12.20 the 
temperature was 53°, and the barometer indicated a height 
of 1,010 feet. 

On resuming our journey, we deserted the valley and 
attacked the mountain to the north directly. First we scaled 
a precipitous cliff at a break in its wall, then mounted over 
a steep, soft talus of shale, and thus gained a considerable 
level of smooth soil. Beyond the latter we climbed another 
steep wall, crossed a plain of shale fragments, climbed along 
a gradually mounting series of smooth, slanting rocks, gained 
and passed over a long, ascending bank of snow with a pre- 
cipitous drop at its right, then crossed a long series of small 
serrate ridges, and finally attained the pinnacle of the pass, 
2,150 feet above the sea. The summits that had become 
familiar to us along our route thus far still towered above us, 
probably to double our own elevation. Beyond, to the 
north, lay a new series, extending as far as we could see. 

Our course next lay down through a wide valley, bare 
and rocky, all ridges and huge loose boulders, with high, 
bare-sided peaks rising out of it on all sides. Once we 
passed a picturesque cascade, two separate bands of water 
leaping over the upper rocks and then joining into one for 
another plunge. Within an hour we had descended to 1,580 
feet, whence our work was alternately up and down over simi- 
lar series of boulders. To these succeeded a short grassy 
level. Then we climbed up diagonally over a great field of 
snow, at whose base the boulders were flattened out into a 
smooth floor like the one we had seen in the valley of the 
morning. From the top of the snow drift we crossed a long 
level, covered over with small fragments of sharp, broken 
slate, at a height of about 1,400 feet. Beyond that a long, 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. loi 

gentle descent, cut across by two or three rivers flowing 
through deep gorges, led toward a fertile-looking valley run- 
ning east and west. One of the river gorges had deep snow 
drifts lining each side, with high, vertical walls facing each 
other. Another was completely filled in with snow and ice, 
under which the river forced its way through a tunnel. The 
roof of the tunnel made a smooth, easy bridge for our 
crossing. 

When we reached the bottom of the new valley, whose 
narrow river flows eastward into Sorviluk Bay, we forded the 
stream and made our camp on its further bank, just below a 
picturesque waterfall. Our height here was 800 feet. It 
was then 6.15, and we calculated that we had walked about 
16 miles since morning. 

We had much difficulty in finding firewood, and a strong, 
chilly wind was blowing, so that our supper was prepared and 
eaten under conditions of considerable discomfort. The 
sunset, as usual, was not brilliant. There was little or no 
aurora. The mountains were all capped with clouds. Espe- 
cially striking was one noble mass that lay just east of the 
middle part of our afternoon's route, with a huge curved 
amphitheatre on his side toward us, and a crown of fleecy 
softness resting on his majestic head and streaming ofif far 
beyond it toward the south. A broad peak lying east of us, 
and north of our valley, was doubtless Mt. Blow-me-down. 

The night was rendered uncomfortable by the heavy 
wind. It was still blowing hard when we arose at 6.20. At 
7.35 the temperature was 40°. An hour later we began the 
fifth day's march. It was first an easy climb over slaty 
ground up to a general level of about 1,200 feet, over which, 
with slight dips and rises, we marched for several hours. 



I02 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

Our progress was slow, and we were chilled by rain and fog 
and by a piercing northerly wind. At one point we passed a 
large lake, at an elevation of about i,ooo feet, full of little 
islands and jutting peninsulas, and stretching away appar- 
ently for several miles into the fog. The slate deposits con- 
tinued, and in a few places we found sandstones and 
conglomerates or breccias. We finally descended from this 
plateau into a gorge at a height of 850 feet, then climbed 
rather steeply against a bitterly cold wind, turned slightly 
westward, and at noon stopped for lunch in a gully where we 
were sheltered from the wind, at a height of 2,000 feet. A 
light snow fell about us, the temperature was 2)7° , ^^^ we 
had to shiver vigorously to keep warm. Our gully was one 
of the level-floored formations that had interested us the day 
before. We crossed it, climbed up slightly higher, and then 
began to descend slowly, having passed the summit of the 
pass. At our left lay a long valley, far below us, stretching 
ofif toward the western end of Ramah Bay, which soon came 
into sight. A succession of curving summits lay before us, 
on the right of the valley, and along the flanks of these we 
marched, keeping at a high level. The summits were all 
concealed in the fog. We continued walking over long 
reaches of slate, which finally became smoother. At 4.30 we 
stopped to take a photograph of the picturesque grouping 
of mountains across the bay. Three sharp peaks lay to the 
right, and broader, more rounded ones rose massively fur- 
ther west, with the waters of the bay at their feet. Soon after 
we stopped again to photograph the mission house. Back 
of it lay a mountain, ending toward the east in two abrupt 
cliffs, their feet bathed in the waters at the entrance of the 
bay, the nearer one bright in sunlight that struggled through 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 103 

the thick clouds, the other curving behind it in deep shadow. 
From these cliffs banks of thin fog were blown out, against 
which a rainbow was formed, arching from the mission house 
entirely across the mouth of the bay. Thence we went 
straight down the remaining 800 feet or thereabouts, reached 
the beach at 5.30, and fired two shots to summon a boat from 
the other side. Our distance thus far for the day we esti- 
mated at about 17 miles. While we were waiting, Adams 
examined the rock formations near the shore. He found 
them everywhere composed of slate, containing quartz veins 
and much iron pyrites. 

A couple of small Eskimo boys soon appeared in a boat, 
and rowed us across the mile-wide bay to the mission house. 
We were warmly welcomed by the missionaries, who had been 
wondering greatly over our approach. They were so urgent 
in their hospitality, so intelligent and sympathetic in their 
interest in our investigations, and the warm and comfortable 
shelter they gave us was in such welcome contrast with the 
conditions of the previous days, that we remained with them 
until the middle of the following afternoon. 

At Ramah we secured an additional guide, Philippus by 
name, for the rest of the way. We left the mission at 2.20 
p. M. of August 24, were rowed about four miles to near 
the head of Nullatartok or Ramah Bay, and thence started 
again northward. Our route was at first up easy, grassy 
slopes, then westward around a high crest, with one of the 
sharp peaks we had seen in a group of three the day before 
blocking our direct way to the north. We circled the latter, 
gradually rising, with a few short descents, into wide and 
fertile valleys adorned with lakes or watercourses. We were 
still on shaly ground until toward the last, when we had a 



104 Report of tJie Brozmi-Harvard Expedition. 

long stretch of marching over heaps of rocks. Toward 
seven o'clock we reached a little oasis in this sea of stones, 
at an elevation of 1,530 feet, and stopped to camp for the 
night. There was no wood in the vicinity. Our guides 
gathered heaps of the four-cornered heath-like growth of the 
Cassiope tetragona, which, being somewhat resinous, made 
a smoky and ill-burning fire, over which we slowly cooked 
our supper of venison, emergency ration, and tea. At 8.15 
the temperature was 39°. Our beds were rather stony, and 
the fog was settling thickly around us as we crept into them. 

On the following day we were up at six. The tempera- 
ture was then 37°. Disgusted with our experience of the 
evening before, we made no fire, but breakfasted on raw 
ration, and started off at 6.30. For some distance we trav- 
eled at a general level of about 1,600 feet, between the re- 
maining two of the three sharp peaks. Thence we began to 
descend through a long valley leading to Nachvak Bay, be- 
tween a series of summits flanking either side. The first 
nine miles of our way were over stones ; the succeeding four 
miles were more grassy. At noon we reached the shore of 
a bight, called Tinutyarvik or Shoal Water Cove, projecting 
from the bay southward. Finding plenty of driftwood here, 
we stopped for two hours and cooked a bountiful lunch, using 
up the last of our venison. 

Our guide had hoped to find Eskimos encamped in this 
bight, who might take us in boats to Ford's. There was no 
trace of them, however, and we were obliged to travel along 
the bay westward until we should find them, or, failing that, 
arrive opposite Ford's house. We rounded the first head- 
land, walking near the shore, covering a distance of three 
miles, to a second bight. Finding no one there, we crossed 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 105 

a river, climbed the hillside west of it, attaining 1,100 feet, 
marched along between the hilltops for three miles, de- 
scended again to the shore at a point about four miles from 
the last bight, and then continued for three miles along the 
shore. Here we entered a third deep bight, called Ivitak 
or Brick Bight, the last mile being a stony torture on account 
of our weary limbs and sore feet. At 6.30 we came to a 
freshly deserted camp. We afterwards learned that the Es- 
kimos we sought had left there that very day. So our last 
hope of getting aboard the "Brave" by night was proved 
vain. We therefore encamped on the spot, cooked a supper 
of ration and tea, and roasted some dried caplin that we had 
found on the shore. There were numerous black flies about, 
but they fortunately seemed to prefer the abundant refuse of 
the Eskimo camp to ourselves. During our entire stay in 
Labrador we had hardly any trouble from the flies. Mos- 
quitoes had been a terrible nuisance for about a month, but 
we had our last unpleasant experience with them during the 
night of August 20. 

On Sunday, August 26, the eighth and last day of our 
march, we arose at early daybreak, a little before five o'clock. 
A white frost, the first of the season, covered the grass about 
us. At 6.15, w^hen we started, the temperature was S7°- 
The sun was just lighting the tops of the hills east of us, 
ushering in a splendid day. After proceeding to the head 
of the bight and crossing the delta of a river that came down 
through a narrow valley between long series of hills, we 
climbed the hillside west of it. Our route lay for several 
miles on high ground, gradually rising in the valleys between 
the summits to successive higher levels until we were at 
1,300 feet. Then we went down rapidly to the shore, coming 



io6 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

out onto a sandy point, near which a tumultuous brook 
foamed down the hillside. We were then just opposite 
Ford's house, and the "Brave" lay moored in the shelter of 
a projecting point near it. Our distance for the morning 
was about eight miles, and we came to the end of our long 
tramp at 10.15. We gladly threw down our packs, fired two 
shots, and soon again two more, were answered by a flash 
from the ship, and then were soon again on board. 

It thus took us just seven days to complete our trip. 
Our progress was naturally slow. The walking was, for the 
most part, over loosely aggregated heaps of stone that filled 
the narrow valleys and covered the mountain tops ; our packs 
were fairly heavy; and our thin seal-hide native boots, 
adopted because of the much-worn hobnails of our own 
shoes, were ill-adapted to so long and rough a journey and 
needed frequent repairing. We estimated the distance that 
we had traversed as about 30 miles by water and 90 to 95 by 
land. The distance from our landing place on Kangerdluk- 
soak (Hebron) Bay to Saglek Bay is about 22 miles; from 
the north shore of Saglek Bay to Ramah very nearly 35 
miles; from Ramah to Nachvak Bay, at the point where we 
came out, nearly 20 miles; and along the shore of Nachvak 
to a point opposite Ford's house about 18 miles. The 
highest point we reached was 2,150 feet above the sea. We 
climbed up in all and again descended some 11,000 to 12,000 
feet. In its general topographical appearance and formation 
the country we passed over was of two kinds : surrounding 
the bays on which Hebron and Ramah are situated, the 
mountains rise more gradually and to lesser heights ; on the 
borders of the fiords of Saglek and Nachvak they are very 
lofty, and rise often in perpendicular cliffs directly out of the 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 107 

water and the tributary valleys. In both sections they are 
piled up in picturesque and confusing abundance. Their 
summits and slopes are worn and broken. About Saglek 
and Nachvak they are more wild and rugged. In the slate 
region about Ramah they have a softer tone and gentler 
slopes. Geologically also we traversed sections of different 
nature and origin: at the extremes of our route the rock- 
formations are of gneiss cut by dykes of trap — the character- 
istic rock-materials of the country ; in the middle section, be- 
ginning about seven miles north of Saglek and reaching 
beyond Ramah for a distance of at least four or five miles, — 
a total distance of not far from 30 miles, — the rocks are sedi- 
mentary, being for the most part of slate, with ocasional 
sandstone and breccias. Since no fossils have yet been dis- 
covered in these deposits, their age is still undetermined.* 



IV. 

NACHVAK BAY AND THE ASCENT OF MOUNT FAUNCE. 

Nachvak Bayf is a deep and wild fiord not far from Cape 
Chidley, the northern extreme of Labrador, at the entrance 
to Hudson Strait. Probably there is no wilder and grander 
scenery anywhere along the coasts of the two Americas than 
that afforded by the lofty mountains and dark, narrow bays 
in this vicinity. I should imagine that the famous fiords 
of Norway must present a very similar appearance. This 

* A. P. Low {Annual Report, Geol. Surv. Can., Vol. VIII, 1896. 
p. 249 L), on the authority of Dr. Bell, calls them Huronian schists. 

t Compare Daly's sketch-map of Nachvak Bay, reproduced here- 
with. 



io8 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

has the advantage of being more accessible to us Americans, 
and must surely be as fully worthy of a visit. The bay ex- 
tends in a narrow body for about 20 miles inland, and then 
divides into two graceful arms that proceed in south-trend- 
ing curves for six or eight miles further. We sounded its 
cold waters in several places and found them attaining a 
depth of over a hundred fathoms. High mountains surround 
it in intricate clusters, crowding close down to its shores on 
every side. At places they rise in perpendicular cliffs di- 
rectly out of the water ; our anchorage was in the shadow of 
one possessed of the impressive height of 2,500 feet. There 
are no trees to veil the wonderful beauty of these huge 
masses, though an abundant and many-hued low vegetation 
clothes their lower slopes. 

The northern shore is comparatively featureless and un- 
indented. Only two coves are known to afford safe an- 
chorage, on one of which is the post of the trading company. 
Elsewhere the cHffs drop steeply under water to a great 
depth. The south shore has a larger number of reentrant 
bights, into each of which flows a stream of goodly size, fed 
from the lofty heights to the south and tumbling through a 
bouldery trough until it spreads into the U-shaped alluvial 
plain at its mouth. In several of these bights it is possible 
to find holding-ground for anchors and protection from 
heavy blows. A prominent scenic feature of the north shore 
is a considerable waterfall, about two and a half miles east of 
Ford's house. It begins at a height of 700 feet to leap down 
in short cascades with long reaches between. From the 
height of 525 feet there is a continuous series of cascades, 
and all this part of the fall is visible from the middle of the 
bay. Its final almost vertical plunge is 375 feet in height. 



E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 109 

Steep up from the shores of the bay rises a series of 
mountains, which attain very nearly the greatest height of 
any in all of Labrador. North of them, on the coast, no 
great distance beyond, and northwest in the interior, are the 
very highest of all, the highest, in fact, of any mountains of 
the Atlantic coast of North America. They form two classes 
in their general formation, the two often mingling, sometimes 
in different portions of the same mountains. Some rise 
steeply, with talus-covered sides except on the higher parts, 
to long, sharp, dentate ridges. The others have more gently 
curving sides and rounded tops, though one or more of 
their faces may be cut away, leaving perpendicular clififs, often 
of great height. The rounded form predominates on the 
immediate shore of the bay, the former lying further back 
from its waters.* The curves and outlines of the more 
rounded are usually of great simplicity, yet possess a massive 
and vigorous majesty and grandeur. They often hide wild 
gorges in their folds, where torrents dash down the thinly- 
soiled slopes ; and their clififs, some of them of great height, 
are wonderfully imposing. At a distance the rounded sides 
and summits of these mountains appear smooth and easily 
accessible, in great contrast with the more rugged outlines 



*"A11 agree in emphasizing the wild, ragged, alpine nature of the 
relief. From end to end of the (Torngat) range, razor-back ridges and 
horns abound. These are separated by lower rounded hills and yet more 
conspicuously by numerous deep fiords and glaciated valleys or glens, 
the near relatives of the fiords. ... It would be a mistake, however, 
to attribute a glacial origin to the rounded profiles of many of the 
dome-shaped mountains that alternate with the horns. The former are 
to be regarded as the result of atmospheric erosion and their slopes as 
the graded surfaces of mountains normally subdued to relatively tame 
form by that agency. The same stage of development awaits their more 
acuminate neighbors." — Daly's Geology, p. 224. 



no Report of the Brozvn-Harvard Expedition. 

of the sharper peaks. But on closer view their rocky frame- 
work is seen to project everywhere, bare and greatly weath- 
ered, while their higher portions are concealed under a rough 
covering of the angular fragments into which their surfaces 
have been rent by the powerful forces that are at work in their 
slow transformation. 

At the entrance to the bay are two bold headlands, 
rising outward to the higher summits of Mt. Razorback on 
the north and Gulch Cape on the south. Thence inland, 
high, often cHfif-broken mountains closely line either shore.* 
The highest range occurs probably somewhat westward of 
the furthest waters of the bay. It is penetrated by several 
rivers, flowing eastward and draining into Ramah, Nachvak, 
and other bays. Those reaching Nachvak Bay turn after 
piercing the mountain range, and thus flow into the bay from 
north and south as well as west. These rivers have their 
rise in a comparative lowland, covered by an extensive forest, 
some fifteen to twenty miles from Nachvak waters. Beyond 
this low watershed is a gentle slope westward toward Ungava 
Bay, cut by a river large enough to be navigable by small 
boats. 

The alluvial plains on the shore at the ends of the val- 
leys, which are never of any great extent, and the valley 
sides and bottoms wherever they are not filled in with coarse 
detritus, are thickly clothed with vegetation. Grass, moss, 
curlew, berry-bearing Ericacece, are mingled together in a 
continuous complex-patterned carpet, rich in color and in 
intricacy of design. Mingled with the greens and autumnal 



*The statements that follow in this paragraph are on the authority 
of George Ford. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. iii 

i 
reds of their leaves, and with the greens, reds, browns, and 

grays of the mosses and Hchens, are the isolated bits of yellow 
of arnica and golden-rod, the blue of the harebell, the pink of 
lychnis and of the fireweed. Willows growing to the height 
of seven or eight feet and less, and birches and alders of lower 
growth, thickly line the borders of ponds and streams. On 
the lower parts of the mountains the same growths are intri- 
cately interspersed with the protruding masses of rock, which 
themselves vary in color among the softer and harsher tones 
of black, brown, and gray. The ascendancy in this com- 
bination of struggling life and rigid earth is gradually gained 
by the latter as the elevation becomes greater, until, toward 
the shattered tops, there occur only rare, isolated specimens 
of the more ambitious and hardy plants. The steep clififs and 
talus grades are destitute of any trace of vegetation, but in 
many places, especially toward the upper ends of the twO' 
arms of the bay, they show a magnificent wealth and variety 
of coloration, in which shades of red and yellow occur among 
the more frequent tones of brown and gray. 

In spite of their height, none of these summits are buried 
beneath the weight of eternal snows, and no glaciers plow 
through the foldings of their sides. Scattered banks and 
patches of the previous winter's snow linger here and there 
at all heights, but they constitute a comparatively subordi- 
nate motif in the total harmony of the landscape. At this 
season, freshly-fallen snow may at any time cover the moun- 
tain tops. Water, also, except for the great bays and the 
blue stretch of the ocean itself when these are visible, forms 
but a minor element of scenic beauty. The rivers are usually 
hidden among the irregular curvings of the mountains, or 
conceal themselves among the boulders of their beds. 



112 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

Where the valleys widen sufficiently, they hold small ponds 
or lakes, but this is of comparatively rare occurrence. Only 
an occasional beck streaks the hillsides with a line of foam. 
Thus the softening influence of water, snow, and vegetation 
play a minimal part in determining the appearance of this 
country, and leave unveiled the beauty of its huge masses. 
On this account the absence of forests is a boon rather than 
a detraction. The grandest scenery of Labrador begins with 
the ragged shapes of the Kiglapait near Port Manvers, con- 
tinues nobly with the groups at Cape Mugford, and cul- 
minates in a magnificent climax at Nachvak. 

Nowhere can the student of geology and of the causes 
of scenery better study his problems than here where nature 
lays bare the manner of her working, without concealing its 
stages and effects under the hindering veil of snow or of 
vegetation. Clear and sharp stand out the evidences and 
nature of glacial action ages ago, and of the alternate sinking 
and rising of the land with reference to the level of the sea. 
Beautifully plain appear the effects of denudation by frost 
and water, as seen in the shattered summits, the forms of the 
mountain masses, the accumulations of talus, and the great 
curves and complexity of the valleys. Standing on one of 
these heights, one can almost trace out the whole history of 
the diversification of the original simple ridges into the in- 
tricate system of varied peaks and valleys that now exist. 

Evidences of the former glaciation of this country are 
abundant.* Dr. Daly established the fact that the main ice- 



* Low {Annual Report Geol. Surv. Can., Vol. VIII, 1896, p. 309 L) re- 
ports, on the authority of his own investigations and those of Dr. Bell, 
that there was no glaciation at Nachvak above 340 feet. 




Sketch Map of Nachvak Bay. 
^rale- 6 miles to I inch. Contour interval: 500 feet. 
Reprinted from R A. Daly's Geology of the Northeast Coast of 
La&rS by permission of the Museum of Comparative Zoology at 
Harvard College. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 1.13 

sheet did not reach above the level of 2,100 feet above the 
sea, though smaller local glaciers existed in all the side val- 
leys. Below that height he found all the marks of former 
glacial activity: ice-worn boulders, roches motitonnees, striae, 
terminal and lateral moraines: while above it these marks are 
absent. He found also over twenty hanging valleys, some 
of them magnificent examples of this feature of the ice work. 
The movement of the ice-sheet followed the trend of the bay 
and of the adjacent valleys. He discovered here also, as in 
previous places, raised beaches and similar results of the post- 
glacial submergence of the country underneath the sea. The 
highest beach line is at about 250 feet above the bay.* 

The bay itself is a typical fiord, in that it is deeper within 
than at its entrance. Dr. Daly made over twenty soundings 
in it, going over 45 miles in a small boat for the purpose, and 
testing all its principal points. The greatest depth he found 
is no fathoms, and it is thus the deepest measured bay in 
Labrador. 

Unfortunately, the days we passed at Nachvak were 
almost all of them heavily overcast, with thick clouds low 
down and concealing the tops of the higher summits, so that 
it was profitless to attempt to scale them. We climbed and 
measured several peaks, however, and the following pages 
give an accountf of our chief ascent. 

On a narrow alluvial fiat on the northern shore, just 
where the two arms of the bay diverge, are the house and 
stores of the Hudson's Bay Company, which carries on a 
flourishing trade in furs and fish with the native Eskimos. 
George Ford, the agent, has lived for over twenty years with 

* Low (loc. cit.) places the upper limit at 180 feet, 
t Reprinted in part from the Bninonian, May, 1901. 



114 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

his family in this solitary place, far away from his nearest 
neighbors, the Moravian missionaries at Ramah to the south, 
and rarely cheered by the sight of visitors. Closely north of 
his house is a mountain whose height, according to our meas- 
urements, is 3,900 feet. Since it was without a name, so far 
as we could learn, we called it Ford Mountain in honor of our 
kindly host. Its western flanks abut upon a valley in which 
flows southward into the bay a river called by the Eskimo the 
Goratsuk.* Some five miles from its mouth it receives from 
the eastward a tributary stream, the Shenukatik.* The She- 
nukatik, therefore, lies in a valley just to the north of Mt. 
Ford, separating the latter from a series of higher mountains 
beyond. 

Saturday, the ist of September, dawned with low, thick 
clouds covering the tops of all the mountains visible from our 
anchorage. The same unwelcome conditions had prevailed 
for several days past, interfering considerably with our moun- 
tain climbing. We had been at Nachvak now for a week, 
and had decided that it was time to turn our faces homeward. 
The day, however, proved unfavorable for sailing, the winds 
being light and directly into the bay. The barometer was 
rising, nevertheless, and thus gave promise of an agreeable 
change in the heavy weather. As the morning progressed 
the sun came out brightly and the clouds became higher and 
thinner. Adams and I, who had come to Nachvak together 
overland from Hebron, had long gazed yearningly at the 
lofty summits above us, and, therefore, welcomed eagerly 



* These names are given by Daly, on the authority of Mr. Stacker, 
as "Kogarsuk" and "Sennerkitte," respectively. The names used in the 
text are as given by Mr. Ford, but probably the others should be pre- 
ferred. 



E. B. Delaba/rre, Ph. D. 115 

what seemed to be a favorable opportunity to conquer some 
of them. To be sure, we would not have time in one day to 
reach the mightiest peak of Eastern America, though we 
were certain that it was not far away from us. But we could 
at least attempt the highest mountain in the immediate 
vicinity, and thus climb probably higher than any one had 
ever been in Labrador, and certainly establish a record for 
the highest measured peak. 

It was already late before we decided that the ship could 
not start, and that it would be a good day for our enterprise. 
It took but a few minutes to make our preparations for de- 
parture, and to get together all that we would need for the 
trip: a camera, two well-tested aneroid barometers, and a 
meagre lunch of hard ship's biscuit and compressed "emer- 
gency ration." We rowed over to Ford's house, and set out 
from there at 9.50. The first mile of our way was to the 
westward, across the alluvial fiat at the base of Mt. Ford. 
Its rich, moist soil, and the lower slopes of the mountains 
rising out of it, were covered thickly with a sub-arctic autum- 
nal vegetation. The poverty of animal life was in great con- 
trast with this wealth and variety among the plants. We had 
seen during our stay hardly anything except noisy ravens and 
hawks, and a small brown-and-white variety of owl. 

Our route led us over the boggy level, around numerous 
diminutive ponds, along a slightly higher and drier grassy 
mound, through thick willow clumps lining a brook, and 
thence to the beginning of the uplands of the Goratsuk val- 
ley, where we turned to the north. A much-beaten trail, 
leading to Komaktorvik, another bay farther north, guided 
us over a part of the way, but we lost it in a short stretch of 
boggy land and rocks. Beyond us the valley rose gradually 



I.i6 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

for a couple of miles, where it was blocked by a group of 
hills of considerable height. These we might pass either by 
keeping close to the stream, flowing in a deep gorge to their 
left, or by following up a secondary valley to a depression on 
their right, connecting the hills with a flank of Mt. Ford. 
At first we chose the former alternative, passing over a 
gradually rising plain covered thickly with grass and moss. 
But, after nearly reaching the base of the hills, we concluded 
that we would probably gain by taking the pass to the right. 
So we cut across in that direction, crossed a small brook, and 
then went up onto a low shoulder of the hills; whence we 
turned again north up the new valley, keeping on the slopes 
some distance above the stream. At the head of the valley 
was a steep, stony incline, rising to a narrow boulder-strewn 
pass, a col between two peaks, low-lying ofifshoots from Mt. 
Ford. 

We climbed the westward peak in order to get a survey 
of our further route. Its height was 1,350 feet, its distance 
from our starting point about five miles. Behind us, the 
Goratsuk valley stretched down to Nachvak Bay. In front, 
the further slope of the col descended steeply as a short, stony 
valley, debouching into the valley of the Shenukatik. The 
latter lay stretched out to our right, separating Mt. Ford 
from another, which, because of a prominent waterfall near 
its base in the middle of the flank it presented toward us, we 
afterward named Fall Mountain. This was broad and 
rounded at the top. Above and beyond it rose two or three 
snow-sprinkled and cloud-capped peaks, one of which we 
hoped to climb ; though it was now evident that we could not 
tell which would best serve our purpose without first ascend- 
ing Fall. On the farther side of the Goratsuk, to the north- 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 117 

west, the land rose in a series of remarkable terraces. These 
were afterward discovered by Dr. Daly to be of glacial origin. 

From our lookout we descended across the col and then 
crossed diagonally, up and down over low, outlying spurs of 
Mt. Ford, in the direction of the waterfall. A few snow- 
buntings flew about, and were the only signs of animal life. 
We had here just the right mingling of rocks and vegetation 
to make walking easy and rapid. We reached the river, 
whose height at that point was 1,200 feet. Below us it 
tumbled over rapids and through a narrow rocky bed. 
Where we were, and for a long distance above, it spread out 
wide and shallow, with an archipelago of small flat-topped 
stones projecting just above its surface and lying so close 
together as to form easy stepping-stones across. To our 
right, at the eastern end of the valley, was a picturesque series 
of jagged brown mountains. It was not far from there, over 
slightly rising rocky ground, to the foot of the waterfall, 
which we judged to be about two miles from our recent out- 
look point. Here we stopped for half an hour for lunch. 
The waterfall was just above us, dashing in one sweep down 
about 250 feet, and thence in a series of little tumbles into a 
pool of the clearest and greenest possible water. A little 
further up the valley we could see a large lake, apparently 
about a mile in length, so shallow in its middle portion that 
a group of boulders projected above its surface. 

On resuming our journey, we crossed the brook and 
scrambled straight up the clififs for two or three hundred feet. 
Then we climbed slowly, diagonally, toward the eastern end 
of Fall Mountain, over steep, rocky slopes, a mass of frost- 
hewn fragments of varied sizes. There were no large boul- 
ders until we found a group of them near the end. For 



ii8 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

some reason, either because of the nature of the materials, 
or because of the greater severity and longer action of the 
frost, the mountain tops here are broken into much smaller 
fragments than any with which I am familiar in New Eng- 
land, as, for instance, the summits of the Presidential Range 
in the White Mountains. At 2.30 we reached a point at a 
height of 3,000 feet, whence we could see the peaks toward 
which we had been struggling, and which until now had 
been hidden from us by the curving sides of Fall Mountain. 
We could see now that there were two of them lying close 
together. Between them, and between Fall Mountain and 
the more easterly of them, was a bare valley at whose bottom 
met the talus slopes from both sides. It rose to a high col 
just between the peaks themselves, beyond which black, 
jagged ridges were visible; and descended toward the south 
into the Shenukatik. The western peak, which we afterward 
named Mt. Faunce, lay almost directly north of us, most of 
its lower portions hidden by the curve in Fall Mountain. 
The eastern peak, to which we gave the name Mt. EHot, was 
higher, and descended southward in a long, gradual slope 
down to the Shenukatik valley. In the latter we could see 
a series of lakes lying beyond the one we had discovered 
before. At its eastern end was a very picturesque grouping 
of serrate and of round-topped mountains. 

The tops of our peaks were most of the time obscured 
by fog. The day was turning out not so propitious as we 
had hoped. We determined, however, to continue on our 
way, for, if we could accomplish nothing more, we could at 
least establish the height of the mountain. Mt. Eliot, as the 
higher of the two, was the one we preferred to ascend. But 
it lav farther ofT, the hour was late, and between us and it 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 119 

was a deep valley into which we would first have to descend. 
We could not yet see what would be the conditions in at- 
tempting the other. So, before deciding on our final plans, 
we moved on a little further, rounding the obstructing curve, 
until we stood near the edge of a precipice that dropped 
abruptly into the valley far below us. Here we could see 
that it would be a matter of great difificulty to get down into 
and across the valley to Mt. EHot ; but that Mt. Faunce was 
connected with Fall Mountain by a very sharp and narrow 
bridge-Hke neck lying but very little below the summit of 
the latter, and still above us. This decided us to select Mt. 
Faunce as our objective point. It turned out later that this 
was much the wiser plan; for from the sHghtly lower peak 
we were able to estimate closely the height of the other ; the 
view we obtained from the summit was without doubt very 
similar and in no way inferior; and had we taken the more 
distant one we would have been left at dark far from home, 
with no protection from the coldness of the night, and in a 
country where it would have been highly dangerous to con- 
tinue walking in the darkness to keep warm. 

It was now about 3 o'clock. We climbed up steeply 
over the boulders on the projecting shoulder of Fall Moun- 
tain, around its summit, and onto the narrow bridge to Mt. 
Faunce. The height here was 3,400 feet, and the summit 
of Fall was not more than a hundred feet higher. Thence 
we went up a series of not very difificult slopes along an ex- 
ceedingly narrow ridge that fell almost perpendicularly on 
the west into a deep valley 2,000 feet below, and on the east 
in sharp talus heaps to the valley separating it from Mt. 
Eliot. The surface was of finely broken stone. Very little 
scattered vegetation grew on it, and this was almost exclu- 



120 Report of tJte Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

sively moss and lichen, with occasional individual plants of 
grass and very rarely a small flowering plant. Of the latter 
I found not more than half a dozen varieties. Here and 
there were patches of freshly fallen snow, but none of great 
extent. 

We attained the summit at 4.30. The barometer re- 
corded the height as 4,400 feet.* Mt. Eliot, east of us, must 
probably exceed 5,000 feet in height. The sky was wholly 
overcast with low-lying clouds. At first we were completely 
enveloped in fog, but this blew ofif occasionally, only to be 
replaced by fresh banks of it rolling up from the south. 
There were fortunately sufficient breaks to enable us to get 
some photographs, and to give us glimpses of the magnificent 
scenery about us. 

The material of the mountain is the same as that of 
which most of Labrador is formed : mainly hornblende gneiss, 
cut here and there by dykes of darker trap. The summit is of 
almost knife-like sharpness and very jagged. It is nearly 
level for about a hundred yards, descends then slightly to 
the north for a short distance, and then turns sharply east- 
ward, and goes down by a series of steps to the valley. 
Southward it descends gradually by the slopes we had as- 
cended. The whole of its mass is a narrow ridge, falling 
with great abruptness in dizzy precipices on the east and 
west. Mt. Eliot is apparently almost exactly similar in its 
nature, with a long slope to the south and sharp serrate 
ridges descending northward from its summit and curving 
somewhat westward, extending far beyond the limits of Mt. 
Faunce. 



* The barometric pressure at sea-level remained constant throughout 
the day until after our measurements were taken; the latter, therefore,, 
required no correction. 





At Ahigford Tickle. 




A Group of Eskimos at Hebron. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 121 

North of us and eastward, much nearer apparently than 
Nachvak, was the beautiful indented and island-broken bay 
of Komaktorvik. From the head of the bay a broad valley, 
holding a large river in its midst, extended far to the west. 
A little west of north, not far beyond us, and cutting off a 
portion of the valley of Komaktorvik, was another detached 
lofty mountain. Beyond this and the valley on the north 
were peaks whose summits were concealed by a continuous 
low blanket of clouds. Far ofif to the northwest was the 
Torngaets range,* stretching from the Atlantic side across 
toward Ungava Bay, its beauty similarly half-concealed. An 
enormous raised plateau lay between the Komaktorvik val- 
ley and it. To the westward, beyond the Goratsuk valley, 
and again more to the south, were impressive groups of moun- 
tains, some of which seemed to us to rise probably to the 
height of seven or eight thousand feet. Immediately south, 
a thousand feet below, was the broad mass of Fall Mountain, 
and beyond it Ford Mountain, and still beyond the grand 
collection of mountains on the other side of Nachvak, with 
some of which we had made close acquaintance on our walk 
from Hebron. East of Ford, southeast and east from us, a 
range, at first round-topped and further on more sharp and 
jagged, limited our view and doubtless bordered on the sea. 

At last we turned regretfully away and started to retrace 
our course. It was then 5.30. We went down the ridge, 
up around the summit of Fall Mountain to the right, across 
its broad top, and down over its broken rocks as rapidly as 



* So designated on Weiz's map, for which see Packard's Labrador 
Coast, p. 226. Daly proposes the appropriate term "Torngat Range" as 
the name for the entire mountain system between Hebron and Cape 
Chidley, which he regards as a structural and orographic unit. 



122 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

we could. On the way I found a pair of caribou antlers that 
had been shed far up the mountain side, and took them along 
with me. A brown Arctic owl flew about us in the twilight. 
We passed the waterfall on its right bank at seven. We had 
soon crossed the river on the stepping stones, and then has- 
tened rapidly, with much climbing up and dov^Ti over inter- 
vening ridges, to the col at our outlook point of the morning. 
Thence we retraversed our path to the broader Goratsuk val- 
ley at the end of this branch, often almost running in order 
to cover as much distance as possible before dark. We had 
not reached the end of this valley, however, before it became 
so dark that we could no longer direct our course by distant 
landmarks, and had to go slowly and carefully because even 
the ground at our feet was but dimly distinguishable. We 
tried to regain the beaten trail, but were unsuccessful. Bear- 
ing to the west end of the valley in the search for it, we got, 
as we thought, closer onto the bank of the Goratsuk than we 
had been on the outward journey, and among a difficult 
collection of unrecognized slopes, clififs, and tributary brooks. 
So we climbed up a little higher again, away from the river, 
and then went on down over steep rocks until we thought 
we were near the bay. At one place we came to the edge of 
a vertical cliff, down which we had to lower ourselves with 
great care by aid of hand-holds and foot-holds far apart. It 
was exciting work, made doubly interesting because in the 
darkness it involved a considerable element of danger. Be- 
fore we were entirely off these rock-ribbed slopes we caught 
the welcome gleam of a lighted window at Ford's house, but 
soon lost it again as we descended. 

Finally we decided that we were low enough down, and 
so turned eastward, guiding our course by the summits on 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 123 

the farther side of the bay, which were now clearly outlined 
against the dark sky. We found ourselves immediately in 
a dense tangle of willows. Through these we struggled with 
great difficulty for a long while, frequently encountering new 
masses of them, and finding our way blocked at intervals 
by pools, around which we had to circle. It was hard and 
discouraging work, the worst of the entire day. But it was 
only an instance of that extremity of tribulation that so often 
precedes relief. We reached the grassy mound near Ford's 
at last, saw the guiding light once more, and at 9.40 had ar- 
rived at the house. 



V. 

SCENERY OF THE ATLANTIC COAST OF LABRADOR. 

A detailed description has already been given of the mag- 
nificent scenery betwen Hebron and Nachvak, and in the 
vicinity of the latter bay. An attempt will be made here to 
give a general characterization of the scenic attractions of 
the country as a whole, and of its variety in dififerent locaH- 
ties. 

Labrador lies directly north of Newfoundland, the two 
being separated by the Straits of Belle Isle, which are 26 
miles wide at the eastern end and nine and one-half miles at 
the narrowest part. It is comprised between the parallels 
of 51° and 61° of north latitude. The Atlantic coast line has 
an extent of about 800 miles. It is lined throughout its 
entire extent by mountains that approach close to the sea- 
coast, often rising in steep cHfifs directly out of the ocean. 
In the southern part of the country the heights increase as 
one goes inland, until they reach a tableland in the interior 



124 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

with an elevation of 1,500 feet or more, which forms the water- 
shed for all the rivers.* Further north the mountains are 
highest close to the coastline itself, or but a very few miles 
inland. t They begin at the south with heights of from two 
to seven hundred feet, increase gradually to a medium height 
of three to four thousand feet in the vicinity of Port Man- 
vers, and then rapidly become still higher until the greatest 
elevations, of probably six to nine thousand feet, are attained 
at almost the extreme north, between Nachvak and Cape 
Chidley.l The height of these mountains, their immediate 
contact with the sea, and the absence of forests that might 
conceal their broken outlines, all contribute to make them the 
basal feature of a coastal region whose picturesqueness is 
rarely surpassed. 

There are comparatively few rivers of any extent on this 
Atlantic side, most of the larger ones draining in other direc- 
tions. The nearness of the mountain system to the water 
on the east prevents the merging of large numbers of moun- 
tain streams into one river of any size. A single exception 
exists in the case of the Grand or Hamilton River, which has 
its rise in the tableland of the interior and flows into Hamil- 

* "The interior country is undulating, and is traversed by ridges of 
low, rounded hills, that seldom rise more than 500 feet above the general 
surrounding level. . . . The general level of the interior plateau, . . . near 
the central water-shed, varies from 1,600 to 1,800 feet." (Low, Annual 
Report, Geol. Surv. Can., Vol. VIII, 1896, p. 21 L.) 

t "This mountain range appears to be confined to the coast region and 
probably is under fifty miles in width, the country on the western side 
sloping rapidly down to the level of the interior plateau." (Low, loc. cit., 
p. 23 L.) 

± These highest elevations are differently estimated by different 
authorities. Koch {Deutsche Geogr. Blaetter, Vol. VII, No. 2, 1884; see 
Science, Vol. XI, 1888, p. yjfi) gives them as 8,000 to 9,000 feet; Bell 
{Report Geol. and Nat. Hist. Surv. Can., Vol. I, 1885, p. 8 DD) as 6,000 
feet. Low {loc. cit.) follows Bell. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 125 

ton Inlet. Its fame rests chiefly on the fact that on it are 
situated the Grand Falls, over which an enormous volume 
of water drops a distance of over 300 feet.* Henry G. 
Bryant, of Philadelphia, who explored them in 1891, writes 
concerning them : "The Grand Falls of Labrador, with their 
grim environment of time-worn, archaic rocks, are one of 
the scenic wonders of this Western world, and if nearer civ- 
ilization would be visited by thousands of travelers every 
year. They are nearly twice as high as Niagara, and are 
only inferior to that marvelous cataract in breadth and vol- 
ume of water." 

Numberless shallow lakes, tarns, and pools are scattered 
all over the country, covering, it has been estimated, at least 
a quarter of the entire surface.f The coastline is exceedingly 
irregular, indented by many deep harbors and fiords, one of 
which, Hamilton Inlet, extends for 150 miles inland. Count- 
less small, rocky islands line the greater part of the coast, ex- 
tending out from it to a distance of five to twenty-five miles, 
and affording safe inside runs and secure harbors for the fish- 
ing fleet, as well as adding greatly to the attractiveness of the 
scenery. The soil is everywhere thin and unadapted to the 
purposes of agriculture, although the missionaries who live 
here always succeed in raising some of the hardier vegetables 
and flowers at the expense of great labor and care. But the 
country is by no means all bare. A plenteous vegetation 
adorns the land in summer, composed of grass, moss, and a 



* Low (loc. cit., p. 141 L) gives the height as 302 feet; Bryant (Journey 
to the Grand Falls, Phila. Geogr. Club, Bulletin No. 2, p. 32) as 316 
feet. 

t Low (loc. cit., p. 23 L); but this applies to the whole country ex- 
tending west to Hudson's Bay, instead of being confined to the limits 
of Labrador proper as they are now defined. 



126 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

large variety of Arctic flowering plants, some of which are 
of great beauty. 

Glaciation, submergence, and erosion have together 
molded into their present form the original rock-masses of 
the country. These are almost everywhere com.posed of the 
so-called Laurentian gneiss, cut by intrusions of volcanic 
trap. In some places, however, sedimentary rocks appear, 
as in the vicinity of Pomiadluk, of Mugford, and of Ramah. 
The ice of the glacial epoch ground down these rocks, 
rounded the summits, and furrowed out deep valleys and 
fiords. "The movement of the ice followed the general slope 
of the country outward in all directions from a central gath- 
ering ground, or neve, and the thickness of the ice was such 
that in its flow it passed over ridges and valleys unchanged, 
or with only slight deflections."* The higher summits alone, 
in the northern part of the country, were unaffected by the 
ice-sheet. After or during the glacial period, the whole 
country sank, and the sea consequently rose to a higher level 
on its shores. Now the land is rising again and stands from 
two to four hundred feet higher than at the period of its 
greatest submergence. This gradual uplift has left on all 
the lower slopes clearly marked evidences of the former 
levels of the sea. Meanwhile the surface has been broken 
up and diversified by frost and flood. To a large extent these 
activities have left the hills and mountains with rounded sum- 
mits and gradual slopes, both among the lower elevations 
of the south and the more massive structures of the north. 
Sometimes, however, other characteristic erosive forms ap- 
pear, such as the roches mmitonnees of Pomiadluk, the round 
or pyramidal summits bounded by vertical cliffs at Mugford, 

* Low, loc. cit., p. 290 L. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 127 

the "house-roof" formations near Saglek, and the narrow ser- 
rate ridges of the Kiglapait near Manvers, and of some of 
the ranges at Nachvak. 

Particularly marked is the contrast betwen the lower 
surfaces of the south and the bolder, steeper, often more in- 
tricately-sculptured ridges that begin north of Port Man- 
vers. In the more southerly portions the coastline, as we 
have seen, is broken into numerous irregular bays and in- 
dentations, its waters crowded with hosts of small islands, and 
its mainland rising into a continuous series of low elevations. 
These hills may slope up gradually from the water or present 
precipitous cliffs rising with sharp directness. In one or two 
rare localities sandy beaches take their place, smooth and 
hard, usually of small extent but attaining a considerable mag- 
nitude at the Strand near Cape Porcupine. The slopes are 
usually humpy with irregular projecting naked rocks in the 
midst of vegetation ; but occasionally they take on special 
shapes, such as the frequently-occurring raised beaches, 
sometimes of small pebbles and rarely of large boulders, that 
give evidence of their former submergence; smooth, grassy 
ascents, that are seldom seen; or the roches tnoutonnees 
forms, so prominent at Pomiadluk. The seaward face is 
varied not only by these rough irregularities of structure and 
shaping, but also by the different coloring and behavior of its 
different materials. The grayish gneiss, which is the main 
rock of the country, softens into comparatively rounded con- 
tours ; but the dykes of black volcanic trap that cut it every- 
where are harder to the air and softer to the sea, and they 
break into more angular and wild-seeming fragments. 
Where other rocks occur, such as slates, sandstones, and con- 
glomerates, the variety in coloring and contour becomes 



128 Report of the Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 

still greater. Gorges, chasms, sea caves, water courses, form 
other elements in the total make-up, and all the elements 
take on constantly differing groupings and variations. 

Except for the sometimes precipitous sea walls, the hill 
slopes, more inland, are almost always gradual, though 
broken, scarred and seamed, affording a footing for an abun- 
dant low vegetation. The sky line is never jagged, angular, 
and steep. From the summits one looks inland over a 
country made up of elements similar to those on the shore, 
except that the steeper cHffs are absent.* Wide valleys 
stretch out, sometimes of considerable extent, their bottoms 
covered over thickly with soft, varicolored moss and other 
growths. Out of them rise low hills, their sides pitted and 
knobbed with projecting rock and plant-covered hollow. 
Often every little depression is filled with pools of reddish 
boggy water; small lakes and swampy bottoms fill in large 
portions of the valleys ; and occasional ice-cold rills trickle 
or foam among the hills. Toward the north, owing probably 
to some difference in the perviousness of the soil, these pools 
become less numerous. The views from the hilltops are 
enchanting, embracing always a picturesque combination of 
the peaceful inland rolling country, the feeding-ground of the 
caribou ; of distant mountain tops, row behind row, with 
snowy patches on their sides ; of bays and harbors, capes and 

* Compare the following description by Daly, on page 210 of his 
report: "From any commanding hill on island or mainland, the eye 
ranges far and wide over a surface showing everywhere the evidence of 
universal and profound glaciation. Unobscured by forest, soil, or thick 
drift, and singularly expanded because of the crystalline clearness of the 
atmosphere, the view typifies that which may be had in the Laurentian 
Highlands of Canada, or in the Archsean of the Scottish Highlands. It 
is a great wilderness of innumerable rounded, ice-worn hummocks, gen- 
erally gneissic in composition." 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 129 

promontories, presenting a much broken and indented coast- 
line; and of the sea, covered often with scattered bergs and 
ice-floes, and dotted with the numerous islands. 

The interior is said to be well wooded and far from bar- 
ren, even almost to the northern extremity. But near the 
coast one rarely see trees of any notable size. At Hope- 
dale and Nain there are small groves near the mission 
stations ; but elsewhere we met them only deep in the bays 
and in sheltered valleys a considerable distance — five or ten 
miles at least — inland.* Thus, when not entirely lacking, 
they form an unobtrusive feature in the usual landscape. 
The low vegetation that predominates clothes the country 
with a close green mantle, but leaves its shape and natural 
outline unconcealed. Inorganic nature reveals herself in her 
own primeval character, leaving all the strength and charm 
and variety that she can assume naked to observation. 
There is little of softness, little of the attraction that vigorous 
organic life can add ; though the green of the low plants, the 
grays, reds, and browns of mosses and lichens, the blues and 
whites and pinks and yellows of the flowers add a suggestion 

* According to Low {loc. cit., p. 31 L) the limits of trees are as fol- 
lows : "The tree-line skirts the southern shore of Ungava Bay and comes 
close to the mouth of the George River, from which it turns south- 
southeast, skirting the western foot-hills of the Atlantic coast range, 
which is quite treeless, southward to the neighborhood of Hebron, in 
latitude 58°, where trees are again found in protected valleys at the 
heads of the inner bays of the coast. At Davis Inlet, in latitude 56°, 
trees grow on the coast and high up on the hills, the barren grounds 
being confined to the islands and headlands, which remain treeless to the 
south of the mouth of Hamilton Inlet. These barren islands and bare 
headlands of the outer coast, along with the small size of the trees of 
the lowlands, have caused a false impression to be held regarding much 
of the Atlantic coast, which from Hamilton Inlet southward is well tim- 
bered about the head of the larger bays and on the lowlands of the small 
river valleys." 



130 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

of this, yet in a way that never interferes with the stern 
grandeur of the lifeless masses. 

The more northern landscapes differ from those thus 
far described mainly in the facts that the greater heights at- 
tained lead to grander impressions of massiveness and 
strength, and involve greater ruggedness and variety of form ; 
and that the softening influences of soil, water, and vegeta- 
tion are present to a far less degree. Here nature introduces 
us to her masterpieces of form. Deep fiords with steep, pre- 
cipitous shores, break into the coast. Islands are few, and 
the high land contends directly with the unbroken force of 
the sea. The lofty summits are still often rounded, though 
quite as often the conditions of erosion have been such that 
they form long ridges of great sharpness and of jagged out- 
line. The bays and streams have cut off huge portions of 
the mountain sides, which fall sharply to the narrow valleys, 
wherein masses of rough boulders are piled deeply, while 
heaps of coarse talus form a steep transition between moun- 
tain and hollow. The projecting buttresses of the flanks 
often inclose huge basins or amphitheatres. The summits 
are rent and shattered into bare heaps of broken stones and 
boulders of all sizes. Plant life is still abundant on the lower 
levels, but finds little hospitality on the bleak, higher slopes. 
Watercourses are rarely visible at any distance. Snow is 
seen in summer only in numerous large drifts and patches, 
never covering even the loftiest mountains continuously. 
From the high latitude of the country, its position on the 
cold side of the ocean, and the great altitude of its moun- 
tains, one might naturally expect to find the snow-line at a 
comparatively low elevation. The reason for its absence 
doubtless lies in the small amount of annual precipitation, the 
winter's snowfall not exceeding five or six feet. 



E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 131 

The more southerly part of the coast, with its lower hills 
and many islands, is full enough of beauty and attractiveness. 
But the northern part is indescribably magnificent. It is 
hard to imagine any coastal scenery possessing greater im- 
pressiveness and grandeur than is afforded by the serrate 
ridges and great rounded basins of the Kiglapait; the steep 
cliffs crowned by the rounded summits of Mugford; the 
strange symmetry of Bishop's Mitre; the intricate recesses 
of Saglek Bay, shut in by lofty walls that descend from the 
worn summits above it; and the massive mountains that 
crowd together in so great richness of form and grouping 
about Nachvak. 

The charm of a landscape is never exhausted by the con- 
formations of its surface alone, with its attendant growths 
and other accidents. There are subtler influences of atmos- 
phere and sky, of changing brightnesses and shades, of shapes 
and colorings varying with the time of day, of transforma- 
tions wrought by evening light, that are as important to its 
total effect as are the more deHcate bouquets to the flavor of 
rare wines and fruit. Many of these finer elements are the 
same in nature and give rise to similar impressions in Labra- 
dor as elsewhere. A mere mention of them is enough to 
convey a realization of their significance. Some special 
words may be devoted, however, to the more striking and 
less commonly distributed among them. 

The sea contributes a number of effects of especial inter- 
est. Thus, mirage is of not infrequent occurrence, and is 
said by the Nezvfoundland and Labrador Pilot to be "charac- 
teristic of the few fine days of summer" off the Labrador 
coast. The fishermen call it "loom." It may be caused by 
distant low-lying mists, or by heated strata of air. The latter 
were sometimes clearly visible in certain directions over the 



132 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

water, distorting the horizon, or as a thin streak above the 
calm surface between us and some not far-off island. 
Schooners and icebergs frequently thus appeared doubled or 
tripled, in the latter case with the middle image inverted; 
and with the images sometimes overlapping or sometimes 
placed one high above the other. During a portion of the 
season ice-floes are abundant, adding greatly to the pic- 
turesque appearance of the sea. For the most part, they are 
low and flat, composed of pans of various sizes that may be 
crowded closely together, or at other times dot the water 
only here and there. Occasionally they are higher, and are 
then curiously carven by sun and sea into varied shapes, 
abounding in caves and pillars and overhanging shelves. 
The green of this ice when seen through the water, the 
deep transparent blue of its unsubmerged fresh surfaces, and 
the pure dazzling whiteness of all portions that have been 
exposed longer to the air, fully justify the enthusiasm of 
those who have described its coloring. Icebergs may be 
met with at almost any time and in any number. Their lofty, 
rugged shapes and great masses are full of variety and im- 
pressiveness. On sunny days the kittiwakes and other sea 
fowl may be seen resting on their sides. Once, as we drove 
rapidly through thick weather, the fog cleared suddenly and 
revealed an enormous castellated berg almost directly in our 
path, standing out against a rough, rocky island ; and on 
many other occasions we met them, though rarely under such 
picturesque circumstances. 

In the evening the phosphorescence of the water is often 
very marked and striking. The ship moved through streaks 
of cold fire and left a burning sea in its wake. Fish awakened 
by the disturbance darted off, invisible themselves, but leav- 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 133 

ing trails of dim, twinkling light. Occasionally a bird also 
would be aroused from his slumbers on the water and fly 
across in front like a dim shadow. When we were rowing, 
the water "burned" brightly at the bow and along the sides, 
and each dip of the oars made a spot as clear as moonlight. 

Another beautiful phenomenon of the night time peculiar 
to these high latitudes is the aurora borealis. We witnessed 
a large number of brilliant displays, of some of which, occur- 
ring during our overland trip, descriptions have already been 
given. Of two others I have the following notes : "It 
started with a few faint streaks in the north and east. Then 
the streamers shot up further, in changing, quivering waves. 
Great curved ribbons of silvery light developed overhead, 
with long streamers reaching thence to the horizon in various 
directions. Then it gradually faded away." "There was 
another beautiful auroral display last evening, similar in its 
marvelous light and rapid activity to that of August 21. The 
unearthly light danced quickly to and fro, weird and mys- 
terious. It twisted itself into curves and spirals, shot out 
into bands and streamers, formed ribbons of vertical pickets. 
These were constantly forming fresh combinations, and 
along their varied lines flew waves of quivering, almost living, 
undulations." To these, to complete the impression of the 
evening splendors of Labrador, may be added this, descrip- 
tive of a row across the harbor at Nain : "It was one of the 
remarkably perfect nights that surely no more southern 
country can surpass. The moon, not yet three-quarters old, 
was just rising, sending a gleam of gold across the still water 
of the harbor. The stars shone brightly, a pale aurora glim- 
mered across the sky, and the water burned under the oar 
strokes. With its setting of quiet hills the picture was ideal." 



134 Report of the Broivn-H award Expedition. 

The colors of sunrise and sunset that occurred during 
our voyage were rarely of any particular beauty. In general 
they were cold and gray, or, at most, appeared in yellow 
and violet hues on the hills, or in rosy streaks on the horizon. 
But of one remarkable sunrise I wrote down a description 
immediately after its occurrence, which I cannot forbear re- 
producing here. Its date was August 17, while we were 
sailing from Mugford to Hebron : ''I was called at four 
o'clock to take my turn at the watch with Harry. We were 
rewarded by an exceptionally brilliant sunrise. The scene 
of the performance was framed in by two low islands. Be- 
tween them lay a bank of clouds, tapering into a thin, long 
point toward the north, lying close down on the horizon. 
Above that was a clear space of sky, and then a large group 
of clouds that formed part of a general massing covering a 
large proportion of the sky. Directly overhead the clouds 
could be seen to be thin and fleecy, stretching downward so 
that their lower parts were at no great altitude. The first 
signs of the approaching splendors were already apparent 
when I came on deck. The lower edge of the upper of the 
tw^o cloud banks was fringed with a reddish-purple, above 
which the dull slate of the unillumined surface stretched 
everywhere. Soon this purple brightened into a clear crim- 
son, which gradually mounted higher on the bank until it 
reached the top, and thence shaded downward into orange 
hues. Meanwhile the lower bank had assumed the deep red- 
purple on its under edge, while all the rest of it was a very 
dark blue-purple. Immediately overhead the fleecy mists 
were white, and between them and the horizon, and here and 
there in the midst of the illumined field, dull slate prevailed. 
The orange band lining the upper bank brightened ; the 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 135 

crimson spread forth wider; the red encroached upon the 
blue in the purple of the lower cloud, until it became a mesh 
of fire. The clear sky between the two banks assumed a 
light olive-green hue. In it small detachments from the 
larger clouds made stars and fleecy fringes of orange. A 
narrow bar of gold shone just above the lower purples. The 
dark masses of the two islands, curving together just under- 
neath, framed in a picture of wonderful coloring. The crim- 
son crept higher and wider, and lighted up the low-hanging 
edges of the clouds above us, reaching finally around to the 
farthest west. Broad bands of brighter light began to radi- 
ate out from the centre of illumination, exactly as the con- 
ventional picture always represents the rising sun, the reverse 
of the shadows on far-ofT mist that are popularly supposed 
to be 'the sun drawing water.' Into the struggle for su- 
premacy of the two purples in the low-lying bank entered a 
new element, a tangle of living gold. After this the blues 
gained over the reds in the duller purples below; the crimson 
gave place to yellow; the line of gold on the higher bank 
broadened and brightened ; the variety in coloring gave place 
to increasing illumination, until at five o'clock a narrow open- 
ing directly on the horizon, in the centre and bottom of the 
almost meeting curves of the islands, gave a glimpse of the 
sun's burning gold, and soon his disc had struggled above 
the lower obstacles and gleams of cold sunshine fell on the 
ship and the dark faces of the furrowed cliffs of the shore." 

In concluding this characterization of the scenery of 
Labrador, I cannot better emphasize the preceding account 
of its peculiarities than by giving from my diary a few ex- 
tracts descriptive of particular localities. 

Of the islands north of the entrance to Hamilton Inlet, 



136 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

July 24: "The islands, as we approached, though not very- 
high, yet presented a very picturesque appearance, mainly 
due to ragged, angular, narrow dykes of trap protruding 
through the rounded softer rocks. Packard says of this 
region : It 'is in places very high and rugged, owing to the 
presence of trap dykes and ancient volcanic overflows cap- 
ping the hills of gneiss. Huge dykes of the black rock ran 
in ruffled crests over the hills of pale, gneiss-like, huge black 
walls. . . . Owing to the great outbursts of black basalt cap- 
ping the light gneiss hills, and running in ridges or forming 
great splashes on the faces of the hills, and sometimes entire 
hills, like craters, the hills are transformed from what would 
otherwise be quite tame elevations into high, bold, wild- 
looking peaks.' Except for these black intrusions, with 
their irregularly broken outlines, the hills were rounded and 
green with vegetation ; but the green was not that of our 
own wooded hills, but a close-lying tinge of color, with bare 
rocks and clifTs projecting through it." 

Of a chasm on one of the Seal Islands, September 20: 
"After anchoring, we went ashore on Long Island. Its most 
remarkable feature is a deep chasm extending almost the 
entire width of the island, narrow, with steep, straight walls, 
between which the breakers roll noisily at the bottom." 

Of Pomiadluk, July 30 : "We found a country that well 
repaid us in its interesting features and wild grandeur. A 
mountain range rises up from the shore where we landed, 
and we climbed one peak which, by Daly's barometric read- 
ings, was 1,170 feet in height. It rises in two slopes: the 
lower one fairly gradual, with a level plain at its top half a 
mile in width at a height of 390 feet, and then a much steeper 
upper slope above it. The appearance of this mountain is 




?\[()untain Group at Xullatartok ( Raniah Bay); looking nortli. 




South Sliore of Naclivak Bay, near tlie Narrows. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 137 

vastly different from anything we have previously seen. The 
whole lower slope is made up of long, smooth, rounded ridges 
of massive rock, absolutely bare of vegetation, with deep 
fissures between them in which soil and vegetation have 
gathered. The long axis of these rocks runs nearly north- 
west and southeast, sloping downward toward the southeast. 
A cross section at right angles to the long axis shows a 
gradual slope up the southwest side, a rounded top, and a 
steep dip toward the northeast. This is the shape char- 
acteristic of what are called roches moutonnees, and is due 
to glacial action, the ice having moved in the northeast di- 
rection down the slope of the mountain. We found many 
glacial stri?e marking its course, and an abundance of the 
lunoid markings mentioned by Packard, whose origin is still 
a matter of dispute. We found them even up to the very 
top of the peak, much higher than they have previously been 
seen. They run in little, straight groups, taking the same 
direction as the stride. . . . The material of most of the rocks 
is of volcanic origin : diabase, granites, etc. ; but there occurs 
also a large amount of metamorphic conglomerates, with 
beautifully exposed surfaces, the large green and pink peb- 
bles within it having become greatly flattened under enor- 
mous pressure. These conglomerates are the first we have 
found in Labrador. 

"The whole of the lower slope has been submerged, and 
the sea has washed out most of the glacial drift between the 
ridges of rock. Daly found raised beaches up to 360 feet, 
showing that this region has been raised up much higher than 
those further south. In one place is an enormous gorge with 
steep, wild cliffs on its sides, in which hawks have their nests, 
and with its floor covered with small boulders. It belongs 



138 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

to a beach 250 feet high. The extent of the slopes thus 
formed must be several miles in breadth, and a mile or more 
in upward direction. The higher rocks on this lower slope 
are more rough, broken, and weatherworn, interspersed with 
a great deal more of vegetation; and some large stretches 
exist where an abundant soil and its growths reach down 
close to the sea. But a very large proportion of these lower 
rocks are as smooth as if the sea had just receded from them, 
are almost as bare of vegetation, and are tumbled together in 
huge masses, ridge rising above ridge, of a perfect hummocky 
shape. This part of the mountain presents a magnificently 
impressive landscape. 

"The intervening plain, perhaps half a mile in width in 
places, is composed of a pebbly floor covered with charac- 
teristic Arctic vegetation. A number of small ponds lie upon 
it. It may have been formed by sea action, thus marking the 
upper limits of submergence ; or it may be the washings down 
from the higher parts of the mountain. From it the final 
peaks rise steeply. They are composed of rocks of the same 
hummocky formation as below, but have their outlines much 
softened, both because of the greater steepness and because 
the sea has never risen over them to remove the glacial de- 
posits. We found a number of long, steep snow drifts, which 
were of assistance in climbing up. As we approached the 
top, a rosy tinge on dark leaden clouds showed that the sun 
was not yet set. A few gentle showers fell before we de- 
scended. From the top the view was a wonderful one. Just 
under the peak beyond us was a large lake, probably nearly 
half a mile in diameter, containing an island, and with a few 
jutting points reaching into it. In the northwest, though it 
was already nine o'clock, the sun was just setting in a bank 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 139 

of clouds, and other clouds above it were lighted with long 
bands of brilliant gold and rose. A ruddy Hght gleamed over 
the whole surface of the lake. To the north and west rose 
groups of higher mountains, range behind range, with an 
occasional lake or arm of the sea visible between them. The 
farther ones were covered with a purple haze. To the south 
and east was the sea, forming a long, irregular line at its 
juncture with the mainland, and covered with the numerous 
islands of the Adlavik group." 

Of the view from a hill at Ford Harbor, August 8 : 
"The view is one of the most enchanting I ever saw. High 
mountains most picturesquely grouped, islands without num- 
ber dotting the sea, and a general combination that could 
hardly be surpassed." 

Of Port Manvers, August 11 and 12: "The mountains 
hereabout are high and steep, very impressive in their ap- 
pearance. They are made of very friable rock, forming 
coarse gravel at their bases, and beaches of fine sand in the 
protected bays. Mt. Thoresby, south of the Port, is 2,y2,3 
feet high. It rises gradually on its southern slopes, but falls 
very steeply, with much gullied sides, to the harbor. . . . 
We traversed three miles of sandy beach, climbed a steep 
rise to an enormous gravel plain that was once a shallow bar 
connecting a rocky island to the mainland, but now lies 170 
to 200 feet above the sea; then up the course of a brook, 
across a damp, soggy level where our feet sank deeply into 
the soft moss and turf, and up steeply along another stretch 
of the brook into a narrow valley lying between two round, 
green hills perhaps 1,500 feet above the sea. . . . Thence 
we climbed up the steep mountain side to the right, over a 
precipitous snow bank, and onto the top. On one side, 



140 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

across the Port and stretching on beyond its head, were the 
steep flanks and knurly sides of the Thoresby group ; on an- 
other side the sea ; and in front stretched out the deer coun- 
try — a wide, level plain, filled with small lakes, and inter- 
rupted by numerous low hills rising out of it like islands. 
We could see around for many miles. A Labrador landscape 
has decided charms of its own, in spite of the lack of trees. 
Where the naked rocks project or cliffs fall steeply, they pro- 
duce an impression of strength and grandeur. But the 
country is not all made up of mountains and bare rocks. 
Vegetation is abundant, and many of the rounded hills are 
green with moss and grass. The low, thick scrub relieves the 
closeness of the other growths, and produces a velvety im- 
pression at a distance. The hilltops here are not bestrewn 
with little pools, as we have found them in some places ; but 
the lower ground has an abundance of water and thick, mossy 
growths of many colors." 

Of the Kiglapait, August 13: "The most striking 
part of the coast we passed was the Kiglapait, a high ridge 
a little north of Port Manvers, which the Pilot says is not 
less than 2,000 feet in height. Daly, who is good at such 
estimates, believes it to be about 3,800 feet in height. Its 
summits are long and jagged, stretching out one after the 
other in a long series.* They fall sharply to a long, low, 
rounded hill lying in front of them on the seashore, and have 

* See Daly, loc cit., pp. 218, 267 : "The axis of the range runs due 
east and west, parallel to the coast line, which here has an exceptional 
trend. The sierra is not more than thirty miles in length, but, on account 
of its conspicuous position on the shore, is strikingly picturesque. Ten 
distinct and individual summits from two thousand five hundred to four 
thousand feet in height could be counted from the schooner. . . . The 
Kiglapait is unmeasured, unmapped, and absolutely unknown as to com- 
position." 



E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 141 

a series of immense amphitheatres scooped out of their bar- 
ren sides." 

Of Cape Mugford and of Bishop's Mitre, August 15 and 
16: "We are in a bight on the south side of Cape Mugford, 
at the entrance to its Tickle. North of us lies a pair of re- 
markable peaks. One of them has two smooth, round sum- 
mits, the other a more irregular one, about 3,000 feet in 
height. Below the summits the slope of the top ends ab- 
ruptly in vertical cliffs, furrowed with perpendicular lines and 
showing horizontal strata that curve downward at the east 
end and dip steadily until they meet the sea. Except at this 
end, a long slope of talus lies at the foot of the cliffs, cliff and 
talus together measuring probably a thousand feet. At the 
lower end of the talus are other lesser cliffs, finally ending 
in comparatively low, irregular hills at the water's edge. . . . 
We found the cliffs inaccessible. Adams and I climbed to 
1,225 f^^t at the far western edge of the peaks, up to the foot 
of the main talus. Between the two peaks we found an in- 
curving gorge, the cliffs continuing throughout its whole 
extent and joining together the two mountains. At its inner 
angle a beautiful waterfall makes a drop of probably 250 feet, 
and then runs off in a curving brook through the short valley. 
. . . Nothing can be more delightful than a sunny Labrador 
day in midsummer, especially at sea, away from the plague 
of mosquitoes, and with stupendous scenery to gaze at with 
its constant changes and developments. We got away about 
nine o'clock, with very little wind. Our course lay through 
the narrow Mugford Tickle, close by the foot of the cliffs 
described yesterday and northward beyond. The views we 
had of Cape Mugford on its different sides were grand 
beyond description. We passed under its cliffs where they 



142 Report of the Brozvn- Harvard Expedition. 

drop most steeply directly into the sea. An occasional nar- 
row waterfall foamed over their rugged sides. As we ap- 
proached the northern end, the sea opened out again on 
either side, and we had a repetition on a larger scale of similar 
formations to those of the southern side. To the eastward, 
four or five miles out at sea, lay the inaccessible peaks of 
Nanuktut or White Bear Island. The mainland stretched 
off irregularly to the northwest, with a multitude of sharp, 
snowy peaks crowded along its length. As we progressed, 
these came out one after another, showing deep gulches and 
ravines between them and giving a series of most majestic 
combinations. At the northern extreme of the Cape is the 
Bishop's Mitre, which, from every point of view, is deeply 
impressive. Its summit as we first saw it appeared to be a 
single bare pyramid, which reminded us of the summit of 
the Matterhorn. Up to its 3,000-foot base led in one place 
a continuous steep slope uninterruptedly from the sea; but 
elsewhere the descent, though various, was steeper. As we 
got further north of it the companion of the first peak became 
visible, the two together being responsible for its name. 
Toward evening it appeared to greatest advantage. We 
were then almost directly north of it, and from base to sum- 
mit it presented an almost perfect symmetry. Above were 
the twin pyramids; on either flank was a massive buttress 
stretching forward and outward, with a sharp downward 
curve from the Mitre itself, and a shorter upward curve with 
jagged outlines to the lesser peaks at the side. These fell in 
sharp lines to the sea; and between them they held, backed 
by the body of the mountain, an immense hollow basin, from 
which, exactly in the middle, a line of snow ran up at the 
angle at the back to the notch between the pyramids." 



E. B. Delabmre, Ph. D. 143 

VI. 

LIFE ON THE LABRADOR COAST. 

The Atlantic coast of Labrador is probably ordinarily 
considered bleak and almost uninhabited. In reality, it sup- 
ports a considerable population. In our brief voyage it 
was impossible for us to meet a very large proportion of the 
inhabitants, or to study them with any large degree of thor- 
oughness. The present account lays no claim, therefore, to 
careful scientific accuracy and completeness, and does not 
pretend to contain any new contributions of value to knowl- 
edge. It aims rather to give the impressions we gained of 
the people both from our personal contact with them and also 
from the descriptions we received of them from missionaries 
and others whom we met. These impressions may be inade- 
quate in some respects, in consequence of the inadequacy of 
our sources of information. Yet, even so, it will probably 
be of interest to give such account as we can of the condi- 
tions of life there as we found them or heard them described. 
A considerable portion of this section has already appeared 
in the Providence Sunday Journal, and is here reprinted with 
permission, with a considerable amount of additional detail. 

A thousand miles or more of desolate seacoast stretch 
from St. John's, in Newfoundland to Nachvak, near the 
northern end of Labrador. In the summer time it is 
crowded with fishing schooners, whose crews toil laboriously 
for their scanty winter supplies. But in the winter, except 
for a few widely-separated and lonely settlements of hardy 
natives and whites, it is inaccessible, and given over to the 
undisputed sway of ice and snow. 

The visitor to these shores finds much to interest him. 



144 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

If he be a lover of nature, he will find few more beautiful and 
attractive regions than this, with its irregular coastline, di- 
versified by rocky hills, imposing cliffs, and island-dotted 
bays ; with its many-hued Arctic vegetation ; and in the north 
with its deep fiords and huge mountain masses. If he be a 
scientist, its plants, its geological formation and history, its 
animal life, will give him plentiful opportunity for study and 
new discovery. The sportsman will revel in brooks teeming 
with trout, or may haply discover big game worthy of his 
rifle. The mere traveler, seeking new sights and adven- 
tures, will come away enthusiastic over the novelties of a 
summer in the far north, where numberless icebergs, a bril- 
liantly phosphorescent sea, a sky often alive with wonderful 
quivering displays of auroral light, a season of continuous 
autumnal comfort, and the strange, impressive landscapes 
of a sub-arctic country, have given him a bountiful reward 
for his journey. 

Yet, after all, wherever one may go, it is the human life, 
with its varieties and occupations, its differences from our- 
selves, its triumphs, vicissitudes, and problems, that fur- 
nishes the study of most absorbing interest. This is cer- 
tainly true of Labrador. Simple, rugged, and primitive, like 
the land they live in, its people present features of interest 
alike to the psychologist, the anthropologist, the student of 
social economy and conditions — and naturally, also, to the 
practical philanthropist. 

Eskimos. — Of the aboriginal inhabitants, aside from the 
Indians of the southerly interior, there are now only about 
3 thousand Eskimos along the Atlantic coast. From Hope- 
dale southward most of them are of mixed blood ; but north 
of there they are said to be almost entirely pure blooded. We 




Mouth of Kogarsuk (or Goratsuk) River, Nachvak Bay; looking 
toward the Tallek. 




The Tessyuyak; the Soutliwest Ann of Nachvak Bay. 



E. B. Delabo/rre, Ph. D. 145 

met them frequently north of Hopedale. Their present 
southern Hmit is Hamilton Inlet, though in former times they 
are reported to have spread as far south as Massachusetts. 
They swarmed over our schooner, peering curiously into all 
its recesses, and offering their simple possessions in exchange 
for tobacco and clothing; and we met many of them in their 
villages on shore. We find them here not in their original 
crude condition, but greatly modified in dress, manners, and 
customs by their long contact with white men. The Mora- 
vians sent missionaries to these coasts more than a century 
and a quarter ago. In consequence, the Eskimos who have 
come under their influence have adopted many features of 
civilized dress, implements, and behefs. It is only further 
north or west than we penetrated that we find them un- 
changed. 

The men look strong and sturdy. They are rather 
short, seeming to average about five feet and a half.* Their 
heads are very long from front to back, as compared with 
their breadth; the cephalic index, according to the anthro- 
pologists, averages about 75. Their faces are broad and 

* Statements vary as to their height. Low {loc. cit., p. 52 L) says : 
"The males, as a rule, are quite as tall as the average white man, but 
owing to their broad, heavy build, they appear shorter than they really 
are; and this appearance is enhanced by their wide garments of hairy Jeer 
or seal skins. Where seen by the writer . . . several of the men were 
six feet and upward in height, the average height being about six 
feet five inches." Deniker {The Races of Man, 1900, p. 578) gives the 
average height of twenty-six measured Eskimos of Labrador as five feet 
two inches. Robert Brown (Encycl. Brit., VIII, 543) says they measure 
five feet four inches to five feet ten inches, and in rare cases even six 
feet. The cephalic index (Deniker, p. 587) is 76.8 for the living subject, 
as measured on 614 Eskimos of Greenland; and for the skull has been 
found to be 72.4 for 31 cases from Greenland, 71.3 for 152 cases from 
Eastern America (measurements of Davis). They are said by Ripley 
(Races of Europe, 1899) to be almost the longest headed race known. 



146 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

round, with projecting cheek-bones and prominent processes- 
at the upper end of the jaw. They are usually very fat. The 
jaws, or at least the lips, are very apt to be rather protu- 
berant. The eyes are narrow. The forehead, usually cov- 
ered over with hair, is of medium height. The hair is 
straight and jet black, except in the case of the old men, and 
is worn long, cut off straight below the ears and just above 
the eyes ; though some of the younger men wear it close-cut. 
The beards are vei-y thin, and often entirely wanting. When 
there is little fat in the face the prominent bones, and the deep 
wrinkles in old people, make it of very irregular outline. 
The eyes and the complexion are always dark, but the latter 
varies from the color of a moderate sunburn to a much deeper 
brown. Where the skin is not exposed, however, it is ap- 
parently as white or rosy as that of a white man. 

The women closely resemble the men in their features. 
Tlieir black hair is done up in a coil on the head. Most of 
them now wear skirts, especially when strangers are about, 
though some of them still cling to deerskin trousers. One 
feature of their original dress that they still retain, and that 
serves by its different form to distinquish the men from the 
women, is the jacket or attigi. It is a loose garment, fur- 
nished with a hood for both sexes. It is cut square across 
at the bottom for the men, but for the women ends below in 
a curve or tail both in front and behind, the rear appendage 
being much the longer. The hood is often bordered with 
fur, and in the case of the women bears more or less elaborate 
ornamentation. These garments were doubtless made orig- 
inally entirely of fur, but this has now been supplanted, in 
summer at least, by a white, thick, flannel-like cloth supplied 
by the missionaries. The hood of the women serves not only 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D, 147 

as a head protection, but also as a convenient receptacle for 
the babies. 

These people are of an essentially sanguine tempera- 
ment. Of course, they dififer much from one another 
individually, but there are many traits that are true of 
them in general. They are naturally cheerful, merry, 
and light-hearted. They are fond of song and music, 
and have some skill in its production. They seem to 
be often joking together; are jovial and good-natured, 
with a well developed sense of humor. These sunny 
qualities give place at times to darker moods. Quarrels 
may arise; stealing may occur, though it is rare; murder 
may be committed, but Mr. Ford, of Nachvak, has known 
of the occurrence of only three cases. Their emotions are 
apparently not deeply seated or persistent beyond the imme- 
diate presence of the exciting cause. They are almost always 
honest and peaceable, and friendly to the stranger. Warfare 
is almost unknown among them. They naturally recent 
injury, as when, as too often happens, the Newfoundland 
fishermen encroach upon their fishing grounds or steal their 
wood for huts; but they rarely resort to violence, and when 
this occurs it is usually under the lead of some one with white 
blood in his veins. They have an excellent reputation for 
industry, are active, quick, enduring. Whenever we em- 
ployed them, we found them willing and eager. They lay by 
little for the future. When they have plenty they are pretty 
sure to be generous, and a good hunter will support some- 
times several families, the rest being content to live lazily 
by the exertions of the one. They can be just as greedy as 
they are generous, when circumstances are different. They 
have a good average degree of intelligence — a high degree, 



148 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

it would seem, when one considers the few solicitations to 
thought and ingenuity in their environment; but their intelli- 
gence is combined naturally with a great deal of superstition. 
They are easily led, and their special character and actions 
depend much on the nature of their leader. Yet they rarely 
have any sort of government, but live together in tribal amity 
with no chief or ruler unless one temporarily arises by virtue 
of his own unusual gifts of wealth or wit. Where their primi- 
tive ideas are not weeded out by the missionaries, however, 
they are largely in subjection to their medicine men or sor- 
cerers. 

Where missionary influences prevail the marital relations 
of the Eskimos are of the conventional civilized type, and 
their sexual morality is of a high order. But further north 
they vary much, each doing much as he likes and can. One 
man may have three or four wives ; and at least one case is 
known where two men have one wife in common. 

The life of the Eskimos is one of hunting and fishing. 
They live principally on a meat diet, consisting chiefly of seal, 
whale, caribou, and fish. Berries are almost their only natu- 
ral vegetable food, though now they obtain also flour and 
bread with considerable ease. Formerly they did little cook- 
ing, but now the introduction of civilized kettles makes it 
easier. They place their main reliance on the seal, and it 
is hard to imagine how they could continue to get along 
without it. It gives them food, dog meat, clothing, boots, 
tents, dog traces, and harpoon lines, fuel for light and heat. 
They have Httle in the way of implements and possessions 
except such as are needed for their hunting and fishing, for 
clothing, shelter, and food. Once they lived very crudely, 
with no implements except of stone, of bone, and of skins, 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 149 

no fuel except seal oil, and no domestic animals except their 
magnificent dogs. One still finds in old graves specimens of 
these cruder implements formerly in use. But a hundred 
years of contact with the white man have given them many 
of his utensils and methods. A few useful articles remain 
much as in the days before they knew the white man and his 
ways. One of these is the kayak, a rapid and seaworthy 
canoe made of skin, entirely decked over except for the round 
hole in the middle in which its one occupant sits. Another 
is their remarkable harpoon, whose barb detaches itself from 
the handle when the animal is hit, and, being attached to a 
float and drag, prevents the escape of their game. Still a 
third is the komatik, or dog sledge, in which the only impor- 
tant change has been the substitution of iron runners for 
those of wood, bone or frozen mud formerly in use ; though 
runners of ivory or whalebone are also still used. 

Most of the Eskimos now live in small communities of 
not more than three or four hundred about the mission sta- 
tions or the posts of the Hudson's Bay Company. Usually 
their crude houses are of wood covered over on the outside 
with turf; though in some places they are entirely of wood. 
In former times their central dwelling was constructed of 
walrus or whalebones covered over with skins, or of an 
underground excavation, or of a half-underground, half-over 
ground framework of stones covered with turf. One still 
sees remnants of such structures. They often leave these 
more permanent dwellings, however, and go ofif, in the sum- 
mer for fishing, in the winter for hunting or sealing. It is 
only on these occasions that they now use their snow houses 
in winter, and in summer their skin topeks or canvas tents. 

The conditions of their life, with the continual necessity 



150 Report of the Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 

of warm clothing and shelter, and the difficulties of obtaining 
warm water and soap, naturally render impossible any large 
degree of cleanliness. Yet they tolerate a rather unnecessary 
amount of filth and refuse in and around their dwellings, 
which, with their utter disregard of ventilation, while less 
ofifensive and less deleterious to their health than the slame 
conditions would be in a warmer climate, are nevertheless 
harmful to a considerable extent. 

Many of them have considerable skill in making carvings 
of the ivory of walrus tusks. They do not, however, possess 
the fine feeling for ornamentation and finish shown by their 
Alaska kinsmen. This, together with their music, seems to 
be their only art. Their language is highly polysynthetic, 
single words of complex structure taking the place of whole 
sentences. There is a remarkable similarity in its dialects 
everywhere, from Siberia to Greenland. They differ hardly 
more from each other than do English and broad Scotch 
(Keane, Man, Past and Present, i8pp), in spite of the sepa- 
ration of some of the tribes from each other for perhaps 
thousands of years. 

Moravian Missions and Hudson's Bay Company Posts. — 
The most important centres of population in Labrador are 
about these two classes of posts. The Moravians founded 
Nain in 1771, Okkak in 1776, Hopedale in 1782. Later they 
established missions at Zoar, Hebron, and Raniah. Recently 
Zoar was given up, and in 1896 a new station was estab- 
lished at Mokkovik. This last has no Eskimos about it, but 
exists for the benefit of the settlers between Rigolet and 
Hopedale. Okkak is their largest settlement, with about 
300 Eskimos. Aside from Mokkovik, Ramah is the smallest, 
with onl}^ 64 Eskimos. These stations carry on a consider- 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 151 

able amount of trading, in addition to their work of educating 
and Christianizing the natives. We made acquaintance with 
a number of the missionaries, at Hopedale, Nain, Hebron, 
and Ramah. They Hve two or three together, with their 
families, at each place. We found them kindly, earnest, 
helpful men, who are doing a good work among the Eskimos. 
The Hudson's Bay Company maintains a number of 
posts along the Atlantic coast. We visited but one of them, 
that at Nachvak. There were but very few Eskimos en- 
camped about the bay — there are only about 80 in all be- 
tween Ramah and Cape Chidley. George Ford, the agent, 
has lived at Nachvak with his family since 1877. He has 
few visitors. The company's steamer puts in twice a year. 
Captain Bradford, who maintains a fishing station at Cape 
Chidley, calls there occasionally, as does also Dr. Grenfell, 
of the Medical Mission. Visits are usually interchanged 
with Ramah each winter. But otherwise hardly any one 
ever comes. Ours was the first schooner that had been there 
for many years. 

White Settlers and Summer Fishermen. — There are com- 
paratively few permanent white settlers on the Atlantic coast, 
aside from those connected with the above-mentioned posts. 
The total number in Labrador, from Blanc Sablon, on the 
shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, to Cape Chidley, is given 
by the Newfoundland census of 1891 as 3,106. But of these 
probably not more than one hundred live north of Hamilton 
Inlet. We met two as far north as Black Island, near 
Port Manvers, and none beyond. They support themselves 
by trapping and fishing. Their rude settlements, composed 
of a few rough shanties and fishing stages, with possibly a 
store and a church, are fairly numerous in the south; though 



152 Report of the Brozvn-Harvard Expedition. 

more often there are only a few scattered houses, or, still 
further north, entirely isolated homes. 

Their character is well depicted by Low {loc. cit., p. 
44 L), as follows : "In spite of lack of educational advan- 
tages, nearly everybody can read and write, and all are very 
religious. As alcoholic liquors are not openly sold on the 
Labrador coast, cases of intoxication are exceedingly rare, 
and many of the younger people do not know the taste of 
alcohol. On the whole, these people compare favorably 
with those of more civilized regions, being frugal, moral, 
willing, good-tempered, and naturally intelligent. Their 
only fault, want of thrift and providence, is largely due to 
their mode of living, absence from any market of competitive 
labor, and the system of credit and debt under which they 
live." 

In the spring and summer this sparse population has a 
large accession owing to the temporary presence of a host 
of fishermen from Newfoundland in search of seals or cod. 
The census of 1891 gave their number as over 13,000, in- 
cluding the women and children who go with them. A large 
proportion of these, however, were on the gulf shore. In the 
spring time, March and April, they go in large steamers for 
the capture of seals on the ice ; in the summer they are there 
in their schooners or in rude shelters on the land for cod; 
and in the early fall they secure herring. Very few of those 
who go down the Atlantic shore ever get beyond Nain or 
Port Manvers. One venturesome man alone maintains a 
fishing station at Cape Chidley all the year round, and goes 
to it every summer in his steamer. These Newfoundlanders 
are almost exclusively of English descent, with a queer, old- 
time flavor to their speech, with an almost fanatic formal 



'•Ibnj 



60 



cq 



^ 



55 



u 

i 






^ 
K 



50 



80 



E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 153 

piety and respect for the Sabbath, and with a rather unsavory 
reputation for wrecking their vessels in order to collect the 
insurance on them. In the latter respect, however, it is 
doubtless the few whose misdeeds darken the reputation of 
the many. 

General Conditions of Life. — Along the southern part of 
the coast these numerous visitors and the regular fortnightly 
trips of the mail steamer in summer give fairly good com- 
munication with the outside world. But both mail and fish- 
ermen venture only a part of the way, and those who live 
farther north see only the rare vessels of the missionaries and 
of the trading company. The land is too cold and barren 
to permit any occupations other than those of the hunter, 
the fisherman, and the trader. The conditions of life are 
therefore extremely simple, and are naturally in many re- 
spects hard and often pitiful. The winters are long and cold, 
while fuel and food to contend with their severity are scanty 
and difficult to obtain. The struggle for bare subsistence 
gives at the best so narrow a margin of surplus that a bad 
season, or the loss of the supporting members of a family, 
occasions frequent cases of absolute destitution. Neighbors 
are few and far away. During the long periods when no 
work is possible, with little stimulus in the way of books or 
games, there must be a great dreariness to life; and dreari- 
ness usually involves much of moral and intellectual debase- 
ment. 

Ignorance of hygienic and medical principles leads to 
a great amount of suffering. Accidents often happen and 
are always serious. Many a gunshot wound that under 
proper treatment might have been easily healed has left the 
only provider for a family a permanent cripple. At least one 



1=4 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

case is known of a father chopping off with an ax the legs of 
his child, because thev had become gangrenous as s. result 
of a frost-bite. Wounds, epidemics, and diseases of all kinds 
are terrible misfortunes, and the loss of life, the blindness 
and crippling, the suffering and destitution, that result from 
them are considerable. Conditions in these respects are im- 
proving, however, through ir-f.uences ye: to be mentioned. 

There is still another imfortunate condition that leads 
to much hardship, A large proportion of the people are 
practically slaves to the traders, who charge outrageous 
prices for supplies and give small returns for fish and furs. 
The winters pro\-isions are often secured only at the price of 
the next season's entire catch of fish. It natm^ally follows 
that effort is discouraged, and the people become continually 
more and more buried in debt, with all the demoralizing con- 
sequences of such a condition.* 

Thus, along with the more attractive phases presented 
bj" this pioneer life, there is a large admixture of misfortune 
and difficulty. A great deal of the latter is not incapable of 
improvement, and there are several influences that tend to 
raise conditions to a better level. The Moravian Missions 
and the Hudson's Bay Company are ci\-ilizing forces. But 
their trading p>olic\' is one that increases rather than relieves 
the debt-slaver\-. Moreover, these missions are confined to 
the Eskimo, and do not reach the other settlers. The most 
promising and interesting feature connected with human ex- 
istence in Labrador is furnished by the personality- of Dr. 



a= s. great source of miie—- to the Iniia-s. Compare Low, loc cit., p. 42 
L. 44 L. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 155 

Grenfell, and the work of the mission of which he is super- 
intendent. This is the Labrador Medical Mission, a branch 
of the Mission to Deep Sea Fishermen. 

The Labrador Medical Mission. — Nothing could be more 
practical and truly helpful than the way this mission sets to 
work. It is purely non-sectarian and reaches and is warmly 
welcomed by Catholics and Protestants alike. Its aim is not 
primarily the preaching of religion, though strong religious 
influences of the best sort emanate from it in the most 
efifective way possible, through the example and unselfish 
helpfulness of its tireless workers. The direct object at 
which it aims, and toward which it is making large progress, 
is the uplifting of the people, both native and white, to a 
higher grade of hygienic, social, economic, intellectual, and 
moral development. 

The first task attempted by this mission was that of pro- 
viding medical and surgical aid. In this direction it has ac- 
complished a great deal. It has now two hospitals with 
doctors and nurses on the Labrador coast, one at Battle 
Harbor and one at Indian Harbor. These are insufficient 
for all needs, and a third will soon be established. Besides 
these, a floating hospital is maintained on the "Strathcona,"* 

* The following description of this steamer, from the London Graphic 
of July 27th, I take from the organ of the Mission to Deep Sea Fishermen, 
Toilers of the Deep, September, 1901, p. 223 : — 

"The S. S. 'Strathcona' is a steel steamer with sufficient sail area to 
enable her to be handled without her propeller, being ketch-rigged after 
the manner of English trawlers. She is eighty-four tons capacity, and 
is fitted with a hospital amidships. She was designed and built at Dart- 
mouth, England, and came out under her own steam to Newfoundland. 
Though a small boat for so long a journey, she only took ten and a half 
days from the Fastnet Light to North Newfoundland, and so economical 
is she with coal that her deck cargo of coal almost sufficed to cross the 
Atlantic with, in spite of the heavy westerly winds she had to encounter 



156 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

a fine steamer recently given to the mission largely through 
the generosity of Lord Strathcona, of Canada, who was him- 
self once an agent of the Hudson's Bay Company in Labra- 
dor. In this steamer Dr. Grenfell patrols the coast of New- 
foundland and Labrador during the summer, carrying aid to 
all in need of his services, and transporting to the shore hos- 
pitals the cases that require it. During the winter navigation 
is impossible, but the hospitals are kept open and a doctor 
from them travels by dog sledge about the country. About 
a thousand cases, counting both in and out patients, have 
been cared for in the two hospitals each year, and another 
thousand on the steamer. Last year the number was 801 on 
shore and 1,072 on the ship, together with 150 by aid of a 
launch. Numbers like these show how great and indis- 
pensable a blessing this service is to fishermen, settlers, and 
natives. 

In another way Dr. Grenfell gives promise of greatly 
benefiting these people. Realizing their unfortunate slavery 
to the traders and the unhappy effect of this hopeless loss of 



on the passage. She is designed to act under the management of the 
Royal National Mission to Deep Sea Fishermen as a floating hospital, 
moving from place to place along the bleak coast of Labrador. No medical 
man dwells anywhere along that vast coast line, and its scattered people, 
who amount to several thousand, have no skilled help in accident or illness, 
except what this boat affords. The 'Strathcona' is admirably adapted 
for her work. She is fitted with all the necessities for modern surgery, 
including electric light and a fine X-ray instalment, so that in the fre- 
quent accidents that a fishing and hunting life expose the people to they 
may have the best assistance science can afford. In her first season, last 
year, over a thousand people sought assistance on board her. The little 
steamer lies up all winter in the ice, as the sea in these regions freezes 
over from December to June. A doctor is kept there by the Mission in a 
small hospital on a central part of the coast, and with his dogs and 
sleigh he travels from settlement to settlement. The ship has now just 
refitted and sailed for the coast." 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 157 

independence, he is attempting to alter the economic con- 
ditions of the coast. For this purpose he establishes co- 
operative stores with reasonable prices to compete with the 
extortions of the traders. With flour at $12 a barrel, pork 
at $40, brown sugar at 20 cents a pound, and other things in 
proportion, and with low returns for his own produce, the 
settler cannot be independent. The new stores are cutting 
these prices to a more reasonable level, and at the same time 
affording better facilities for disposing of the fish and se- 
curing better prices for them. A new industry made possi- 
ble by the mission is contributing to improvement in the 
same line. The mission steamer and the hospitals consume 
much wood as fuel, and wood is needed for buildings and 
other purposes. This can be prepared to a large extent 
during the dull season of the fisheries, and thus the industry 
of the people is fostered and their incomes increased. The 
mission is now trying at a considerable cost to establish a 
saw mill, and also to extend the number and success of the 
stores and provide them with ships of their own for carrying 
supplies and for transporting fish to the markets. 

Besides these good works. Dr. Grenfell is a father to all 
the orphans of the coast, and relieves all possible cases of 
need. He distributes books and teaches the people active 
games. His influence over them is enormous, as a result of 
his great helpfulness and interest in them. In all these 
various ways he is improving their social and moral, at the 
same time with their material, conditions. 

To the members of the Brown-Harvard expedition to 
Labrador last summer, this mission was a revelation as to 
the possibilities of a wisely-conducted, practical philanthropy. 
It is undoubtedly the most important and promising feature 



158 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

connected with life on the Atlantic side of Newfoundland 
and Labrador, being an economic and moral force of the 
greatest significance. 



VII. 

SCIENTIFIC RESULTS OF THE EXPEDITION. 

The points at which we touched on our voyages north 
and south were so numerous and so close together that they 
gave us a very thorough idea of the character of the coast 
we were investigating in its different parts. The structure 
and appearance of the country vary considerably in different 
regions; but probably very few of the prominent differences 
escaped us. We anchored at twenty-eight different places 
along the seven hundred miles of coast. At almost every 
one of these places we went ashore, either for a single even- 
ing's observations, or often during several days while imme- 
diate further progress, for one reason or another, was im- 
possible. We got acquainted also with six localities in New- 
foundland in a similar way. At some places we covered a 
considerable inland territory in our investigations. Thus at 
St. Lewis Sound we went in a rowboat several miles up one 
of the rivers; at Aillik several of us took a long walk, extend- 
ing almost to the head of Mokkovik Bay; at Port Manvers 
two of the party were encamped for a month; between 
Hebron and Nachvak two of us covered the entire inter- 
vening country on foot; and at Nachvak we made a thorough 
exploration of the shores, and walked several miles inland to 
the north. 

We were thus enabled to accomplish a very creditable 
amount of scientific observation along the lines for which we 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 159 

were equipped. The work undertaken by Dr. Daly in par- 
ticular was exceedingly careful and thorough, and his ob- 
servations contain much that is new and valuable. Our re- 
sults have not yet been completely worked out, so that it 
is possible to give of some of them only an incomplete sum- 
mary. Our very numerous oceanographic data have hardly 
yet been touched, and the examinations of botanical speci- 
mens, especially of the cryptogams, are not yet finished. 
I shall give in a few brief paragraphs an outHne of our re- 
sults, so far as we know them, and then append the special 
reports on botany, ornithology, and geology, the two latter 
by Mr. Bigelow and Dr. Daly respectively. More extended 
reports will be published later in appropriate places. 

(a) Meteorology. — Regular observations were made 
of air-pressure, humidity, and temperature, of the state of 
clouds, fog, and sunshine. The results of these observations 
have already been given in Section II. Their scientific 
value is unfortunately not large, because of some degree of 
irregularity in time of observations, of inaccuracy in records, 
and of inadequacy of apparatus. The regular observations 
made by the missionaries at some of their stations are of 
much greater value. These of ours can serve only to give 
an approximately correct idea of the conditions under which 
our voyage was made. 

{h) Geography. — We made thorough acquaintance 
with the scenery, structure, topography, and life of probably 
most of the typical sections of the Atlantic coast. Although 
all the country we visited is well known to many individuals, 
and we made no really new discoveries, yet much of it has 
not found its way into scientific or popular description. We 
ascended one mountain that probably has never before been 



i6o Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

climbed, and our determination of its height makes of it the 
most elevated measured height in Labrador. We also 
named a few hitherto unlabeled mountains. The names that 
we particularly desire to see retained are these: (i) Mt. 
Elizabeth; this rises to the height of 2,800 feet, directly be- 
hind the Hudson's Bay Company's post at Nachvak, to the 
north and northwest of it. (2) Mt. Ford (3,900 feet), north 
and east of the latter. Both of these descend close to the 
waters of Nachvak Bay, on its northern shore, and are bor- 
dered on the west by the Goratsuk* valley. (3) Fall Moun- 
tain (3,500 feet); directly north of Mt. Ford, separated from 
the latter by the Shenukatikt valley, and marked by a prom- 
inent waterfall on its southern face. (4) Mt. Faunce (4,400 
feet); running off from near the summit of Fall Mountain 
toward the north, and connected with the latter by a narrow 
neck. (5) Mt. EHot (estimated from the summits of Mts. 
Ford and Faunce as exceeding 5,000 feet); immediately east 
of Mts. Fall and Faunce, its peak lying in close proximity 
to that of the latter. (6) Brave Mountain (estimated as 
3,700 to 3,800 feet) ; the highest peak of the group$ just west 
of the Bishop's Mitre at Cape Mugford; known sometimes 
to fishermen as "the Cod-bag." (7) Mt. Packard, the 
highest peak of the Kiglapait group. (8) The Tomgat 
Mountain Range, a name to be applied to the entire system 
of mountains extending from Hebron to Cape Chidley. 

(c) Photography. — Our photographs of the country 
and its people are many of them excellent, adding somewhat 
to accurate knowledge of the appearance of those regions. 

* Or, Kogarsuk. 

t Or, Sennerkitte. 

X The Kaumajet Mountain Group. 




The Tallek; the South Arm of Nachvak Bay. 




Mounts Fall, Fauncc, and Eliot, as seen from the Summit 
of Alt. Ford. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. i6i 

(d) Anthropology. — We made no contributions to 
knowledge in this line, but brought back with us a few 
articles illustrative of the present and past life of the 
Eskimos. To the Peabody Museum of Harvard University 
we presented a large and unusually interesting ancient stone 
lamp and a pair of fire-stones; and to the Anthropological 
Museum of Brown University a number of medicine-charms 
(said by Mr. Ford to have been presented to him by an 
Eskimo chief, Idualuk, from Akpatok Island, who at one 
time practiced cannibalism), and of grave relics, the latter in- 
cluding ancient stone lamps, cooking pots, knives and 
scraping tools, bird-darts, harpoon points, etc. The fire- 
stones are of a type new to us. They are two small, round 
stones of soft material, in which are embedded great num- 
bers of minute fragments of iron pyrites. In use, accord- 
ing to Mr. Townley, the missionary at Hebron, who gave 
them to us, these stones are knocked together rapidly over a 
quantity of the cotton from a plant common in that country 
{Eriophorum, of which there are several species). Fine 
particles, warmed by the knocking process, fall from the 
stones into the cotton, which is then rubbed and blown into 
a blaze. 

(<?) Psychology. — While our stay was too short and 
our acquaintance with the people of the coast too super- 
ficial to permit of the gathering of any new facts of value 
in regard to their character and mental habits, yet from ob- 
servation and conversation we gained a fairly good impres- 
sion of the general nature and conditions of life there; and 
I have endeavored to give expression to this impression in 
the preceding section. 

{f) Entomology. — There was no one in our party 



1 62 Report of the Br oivn-H award Expedition. 

fitted to make studies in this line; consequently, we collected 
but very few specimens. One among them, however, 
turned out to be of interest. Dr. Packard reports upon it 
as follows : * 

"Last summer. Prof. E. B. Delabarre, during his ex- 
pedition to Northern Labrador, observed and collected some 
locusts, and kindly presented me with three specimens. 
One is from Nachvak, collected at a point two miles inland 
from the harbor, and two others at Cape Mugford, directly 
on the coast, at a point 300 to 400 feet above the level of the 
sea. The locusts were common locally, in spots. Dr. Scud- 
der has kindly identified them as Melanophis extremus Junius. 
This is its first occurrence in the Labrador peninsula, the 
species occurring throughout British America and on the 
summit of Mt. Washington, N. H." 

(g) Botany. — Botanical collections were made in a 
great many localities, and many records were made of the 
growths in localities whose varieties were not fully collected. 
Though the writer can lay no claim to skill in this science, 
yet it was possible for him to identify a large number of the 
more common plants; and whenever there was any doubt, 
specimens were preserved. The plants of this collection 
have been submitted to various authorities for determina- 
tion. A Hst of them, containing very nearly three 
hundred names, to which the unexamined mosses are yet 
to be added, is given in the next section. Most of these 
have been reported previously as occurring in Labrador. A 
considerable addition is made by us, however, to the list of 
definite localities; and over twenty species of phenogamous 

* "Occurrence of Melanoplus extremus in Northern Labrador." By 
A. S. Packard, Psyche, April 1901, p. 191. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 163 

plants are now reported for the first time from the Labrador 
coast. One of the latter has never before been known east 
of Manitoba; four are reported by us further north and one 
further south than their previously-announced limits; nine 
are new to the coast, but have been found previously in 
other parts of the Labrador peninsula; while two others 
have been reported thus far only vaguely from the "coast," 
without definite locality. Of plants previously recorded 
from definite localities, two have their known limits now ex- 
tended somewhat to the north, and one to the south; while 
nearly fifty have been reported previously by a single 
authority only, and are now confirmed. Of the mosses, nine 
are new to the Labrador peninsula, and eleven are now first 
given definite locality on the coast; while nearly half the 
specimens are yet to be examined. Seven new hepatics are 
named, three of them, as yet, doubtfully. Five lichens are 
new to the country. Of the fungi, all, so far as can be 
determined from the authorities consulted, are new. For 
greater detail concerning these matters, reference must be 
made to the following section. 

(h) Ornithology. — Henry W. Bigelow kept a careful 
list of all the birds he saw, and of the localities where they 
occurred. His month on shore at Port Manvers made 
possible an exhaustive study of that locality. None of his 
birds are new, but several are rare on the Labrador coast. 
His report will be found in Section IX.* 

(i) Economic Mineralogy. — Adams and McCornick 
gave particular attention to the search for mineral deposits 

* A still later report by Mr. Bigelow, identical in its list of birds with 
the one given in Section IX, will be found in Auk, 1902, Vol. XXVII, 
pp. 24-31. 



164 Report of tlie Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

of economic value. Most of their results in this line were 
of a negative nature. Probably the great mass of the 
country would not repay further investigation. It contains 
large quantities of iron ore, some copper, some mica, and 
some asbestos. It is not probable that any of these could 
be worked to advantage. Our conclusion was that the only 
localities that would be worth prospecting further are the 
vicinity of Nain, and some 300 square miles about Mugford 
and Nachvak. In the former place precious labradorite 
occurs, doubtless in other situations than those already dis- 
covered. In the latter region the structure of the country 
is such as to admit the possibility of other valuable finds. 
Pure graphite has been discovered about Nachvak Bay (see 
Daly, Geology of tJie Northeast Coast of Labrador, p. 234). 

(;') Oceanography. — Dr. Daly made studies of the 
Labrador current; sounded and charted Nachvak Bay, find- 
ing it a typical fiord, no fathoms at the deepest part, and, 
therefore, the deepest measured bay in Labrador; and made 
almost daily observations of the temperature and salinity of 
the sea-water at different depths. Among his results were 
the determination of a temperature of 29.6° F. at the bot- 
tom of the Straits of Belle Isle, and of 29° F. in the depths 
of Nachvak Bay. These studies were carefully made and 
will be valuable; but their results have not yet been suffi- 
ciently computed for any report upon them at present. Be- 
sides their value as mere oceanographic data, they also fur- 
nish material to some extent for study of conditions of life 
among the cod, a matter of practical importance in which 
Dr. Daly was largely interested. 

(k) Geology. — Dr. Daly was a tireless worker in this 
field. He devoted attention to many different lines of study, 



E. B. Dclabarrc, Ph. D. 165 

and made discoveries that will form large contributions to 
geological knowledge of Labrador. Among the many 
special subjects which he investigated were the following:* 

(i) Phenomena of former submergence and subsequent 
upHft of the coast. This has occurred since the glacial 
epoch, and not to the same extent on different parts of the 
coast. There is a maximum of uplift in the vicinity of Hope- 
dale (390 feet), whence its amount diminishes steadily toward 
the north, being 250 feet at Nachvak, and toward the south 
to a minimum about Hamilton Inlet (260 feet). From the 
latter it again increases southward to another maximum in 
Newfoundland, attaining 575 feet at St. John's. The de- 
termination of these facts has involved: 

First, a study of raised beaches and other elevated re- 
sults of the former contact of land and sea. The heights 
of a great many of these were measured, and an attempt to 
correlate them led to the opinion that they were not formed 
at corresponding heights in the different localities by rela- 
tively long pauses in the process of uplift, as has been sur- 
mised; but that their particular heights are due to local con- 
ditions of exposure and rock-resistance, and need not cor- 
respond in height in the different localities. 

Second, the discovery of a criterion for determining the 
upper limit of former submergence. This was found in the 
boundary between the boulder-strewn upper and the 
boulder-free lower zone, the former having evidently never 

* This outline was given to me by Dr. Daly immediately after our 
return from Labrador, and is subject to any corrections that may appear 
in his own account of his results. These have now been given in his 
"Geology of the Northeast Coast of Labrador," Bulletin of the Museum 
of Comparative Zoology at Harvard College, Vol. XXXVIII, February, 
1892, pp. 205-270. 



1 66 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

been subjected to sea-action since the boulders were de- 
posited during the glacial epoch. This criterion was inde- 
pendently discovered by Dr. Daly, though he finds that it is 
not the first time that it has been used. 

Third, the measurement of the upper limit of sub- 
mergence. This was accomplished at almost all the local- 
ities we visited, with the results outlined above. 

(2) Phenomena of glaciation. In this field many new 
discoveries were made, including: 

First, large numbers of heretofore unobserved glacial 
striae and grooves. 

Second, a considerable number of terminal and lateral 
moraines, whose existence in Labrador had been doubted. 

Third, an upper limit to the extent of general glaciation 
among the higher mountains of the north. Above 2,100 feet 
there are no traces of alteration by the ice-sheet. 

Fourth, numerous new localities where lunoid mark- 
ings occur, and an adequate theory of their origin, together 
with definite proof of their connection with the movements 
of the ice in the glacial epoch. 

Fifth, a great many fine examples of hanging valleys 
in the vicinity of Nachvak — an efifect of glacial action not 
previously known to exist in Labrador. 

Sixth, the determination of the direction of movement 
of the main ice-sheet in the different localities; and evidence 
that in the vicinity of Nachvak the glaciers followed the trend 
of the local valleys, not covering the tops of the mountains. 

(3) The discovery of sedimentary rocks in localities 
where none had been known previously; as, for example, the 
breccias of Pomiadluk Point and the broad region of slate, 
sandstone, and conglomerate on either side of Ramah. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 167 

(4) A collection for further study of all the eruptive 
rocks found on the coast. These include also specimens of 
the unique volcanic bombs occurring at Kirpon in New- 
foundland. 

(5) An interpretation of the scenery, with reference to : 
First, rock-structure; this included the determination of 

the strike-lines of the rocks, resulting in the discovery that 
the coast-line follows the strike on the Atlantic border, and 
thus corroborating the theory that Labrador has nothing to 
do with the Appalachian system. 

Second, submergence in its effects on a glaciated land- 
scape. 

Dr. Daly himself reports on these matters in greater 
detail in Section X. 



VIII. 

REPORT ON BOTANY. 

Vegetation in Labrador pushes up in great abundance 
with the first disappearance of the snows. Throughout the 
summer and early autumn all the country is thickly covered 
with vigorous plant life and adorned with a great multitude 
of flowers from which it gains a large variety in coloring. 
Only where snow-drifts linger, or where bare rock masses 
protrude, or on the higher slopes and summits, are these 
growths absent. Near the coast the growth is never high. 
Extensive evergreen forests exist in the interior, even as far 
north as the latitude of Nachvak, according to George Ford 
of that place. But in the mountainous region bordering on 
the sea trees grow only in sheltered nooks and valleys, and 



1 68 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

rarely in large groups except fairly well in from the coast.* 
We found, for instance, spruces growing to lo feet in height 
a little way up the St. Charles River, and it is reported that 
far up St, Lewis Inlet they are large enough for ship-timber. 
In the ravines on the shore of Aillik Bay and in a low, flat 
valley at its head, we noticed considerable groups of trees, 
including willows lo feet and spruce 30 feet high. Still fur- 
ther inland, along the shores and near the head of Mokkovik 
Bay, there were somewhat extensive thick groves in which 
spruce attained the height of perhaps 50 feet. Back of the 
mission station at Hopedale is a large grove of larch; and at 
Nain another of various evergreens. These were the only 
places where we encountered trees of any size. Elsewhere 
we found only scattered, stunted trees, or scrub growths 
that were very rarely thick enough to cause any difficulty in 
walking. Black and white spruce, dwarf birch, and various 
willows were the most common forms, with larch, juniper, 
balsam fir, and alder also occurring. Hebron is, apparently, 
the northern limit of evergreens near the coast, for north of 
it we saw none of them at all, even on our walk a considerable 
distance inland. Alder, birch, and willows still grew vigor- 
ously, the latter attaining the height of seven or eight feet in 
moist hollows near Nachvak Bay. 

The great mass of the vegetation of Labrador consists 
of low forms. It grows so thickly and vigorously in the 
thin soil, however, that the country never gives the im- 
pression of being lifeless and barren. In the far south, 
especially on moist lowlands, Sphagmtm is often a prevail- 
ing growth. But aside from its rather rare supremacy, al- 

* See Low, Annual Report, Geol. Surv. Can., VIII, 31 L; quoted in full 
in Section V of this report. 




View to the Southeast from the Suniniit of Alt. Faunce. 




View to the South from the Sumnut of ]Mt. Fauuce. 



E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 169 

most everywhere we went we found the curlew-berry {Em- 
petrum nigrum) and the so-called caribou-moss (Cladonia, 
really a white lichen) together forming an almost continuous 
green and gray sward, touched with red in the autumn. The 
berries of the curlew are exceedingly numerous, and those 
of the previous season still cling thickly to the vine among 
the green new ones, and even until the latter begin to ripen 
in the middle of August. In the midst of this continuous 
curlew and moss grow occasional clumps of grasses of many 
kinds, and a great variety of flowering plants. Perhaps the 
most common of the latter are the Ericaceae. Some of them 
are berry-bearing, with inconspicuous flowers, particularly 
the blueberry {Vaccinium Pennsylvanicum and V. uligi- 
nosnm), the mountain cranberry {V. Vitis-Idced), and the 
bearberry {Arctostaphylos alpina). Others have more prom- 
inent flowers, such as the omnipresent Labrador tea 
{Ledum), together with the somewhat less universal Loise- 
leuria and Bryanthiis. These are all exceedingly abundant 
in the southern half of the peninsula, but extend variously 
far to the north. The white clusters of the Ledum and the 
purple umbels of the Bryanthiis are very conspicuous. In 
the autumn, the red-turning leaves of the Arctostaphylos are 
the most attractive of the season's colorings. There is also 
a large number of other plants that are constantly met with, 
though few of them are so nearly omnipresent and con- 
tinuous as are most of those already mentioned. The bake- 
apple or cloudberry {Rubus Chamcemorus) grows thickly as 
far north as Hebron, but very thinly beyond. We could 
find but very few of its ripe berries in Labrador, though in 
Newfoundland they seem to be common. Associated with 
its single white flowers are frequently seen the showy, rose- 



170 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

colored ones of the arctic raspberry {Ruhus arcticus). This 
also, so far as our experience could determine, had about the 
same limits and was equally rare in fruit. Bunchberry 
{Cornus Canadensis) is likewise very common, especially in 
the south, and grows in thick groups. Dense tufts of the 
white-flowered Diapensia Lapponica and of the beautiful 
moss-like pink Silene acaulis greet the eye continually. 
Astragalus and Oxytropis, Dryas, a great variety of saxifrages, 
Sedum, Pediailaris, the violet-like Pinguicida, and many in- 
conspicuous CritcifercB and Caryophyllacece complete the list 
of forms more universally present in the early part of the 
season. 

After the beginning of August, when we had reached a 
higher latitude, the character of the vegetation changed 
considerably. Caribou moss, curlew-berry, blueberry, and 
Arctostaphylos still remained the most continuous growths. 
But the flowers began to change to more autumnal forms. 
The arctic golden-rod {Solidago Virga-aiirea and 5". macro- 
phylla) appeared abundantly. The large, showy pink flowers 
of the Epilohium and the thick pink heads of Lychnis were 
very prominent. Yellow Arnica alpina and delicate blue hare- 
bells (Campantda) were common. A yellow poppy {Papaver 
nudicaide) with early deciduous petals was not infrequent on 
the hill-tops. A strikingly beautiful flower, though a rare 
one, was the small twin-flower {Linncca borealis). Fungi, in- 
cluding Bolcti, Russidce, and various agarics, also become 
very abundant toward the close of the summer; they were 
fairly numerous in the north, and the moist woods about 
Nain and Hopedale were full of them. 

Along the shore, in addition to many of the above va- 
rieties, several other plants were of very frequent occur- 



E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 171 

rence. Seaside sandwort {Arenaria peploides), sea-lungwort 
or ice-plant {Mertensia maritima), Potentilla anserina and tri- 
dentata, two large UmbellifercB {Archangelica and Coelo- 
plenrum), and one or two species of plantain (Plantago) we 
found almost everywhere, even to the far north, though only 
one or two of them occurred quite as far as Nachvak; while 
iris and beach-pea {Lathyrus maritimus) were also very 
abundant, but were confined to much more southerly hmits. 

The thoroughness of our examination of the coast was 
favorable to a fairly exhaustive study of the Labrador flora. 
This feature was ofifset, however, to a certain extent by my 
own inexpertness in the botanical field; and for this reason it 
is probable that many interesting plants escaped my notice. 
Of the more common and easily recognized varieties I pre- 
served no specimens, because of the difificulty of making and 
caring for a large collection in our limited quarters. In 
almost all cases of doubt, however, and in many cases where 
there was none, I brought home specimens for identification. 
The names given on my own authority alone are compar- 
atively few, and are with few exceptions those of plants in 
regard to which there can be little or no uncertainty. 

The largest part of the credit for the list which I am 
able to present is due to those on whom has fallen the work 
of identification of specimens. Prof. W. W. Bailey, of 
Brown University, undertook the examination of all the 
phenogamous plants, with the exception of the willows; and 
his careful work has been further revised by Prof. B. L. Rob- 
inson and Mr. M. L. Fernald, of Harvard University, of 
whose kindly and able assistance we wish to make grateful 
acknowledgment. The willows were named by Prof. W. W. 
Rowlee, of Cornell University. The mosses were submit- 



172 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

ted to Mr. J. F. Collins, of Brown University, who is able, 
as yet, to report on only a portion of them; these, however, 
are the only portions of my collection in regard to which 
this report is incomplete. The hchens have been examined 
and identified by Professor Clara E. Cummings, of Wellesley 
College. Unfortunately, a large portion of the fungi 
collected were imperfectly preserved and could not be 
named. The list of them here given represents, therefore, 
very inadequately their actual variety in Labrador. I am 
indebted to Prof. W. G. Farlow, of Harvard University, for 
their names. To all of these men I wish to express my sin- 
cere appreciation of their interest and help. 

For a knowledge of the localities from which the various 
species of phenogamous plants here enumerated have been 
reported previously, I have consulted the following authori- 
ties: 

(i) Robert Bell: "Observations on the Geology, 
Mineralogy, Zoology, and Botany of the Labrador Coast, 
Hudson's Strait and Bay." Geol. and Nat. Hist. Surv. of 
Can., Report of Progress, DD, 1884. To this are added two 
names given in a similar report the following year. 

Bell's list, the plants of which were identified by Prof. 
J. M. Macoun, contains seven columns, of which only three 
apply to Labrador proper. His columns 4 (Cape Chidley) 
and 5 (Nachvak, Ford's Harbor, and Nain) are the only ones 
here considered, column 6 containing only species in the 
collection of Weiz, more fully reported by Packard. 

(2) A. S. Packard: The Labrador Coast. New York, 
1891. 

Prof. Packard's list aims to enumerate all the localities 
reported by all previous observers. The list was compiled 
by Prof. Macoun. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 173 

(3) Henry G. Bryant : "A Journey to the Grand Falls 
of Labrador." Geog. Club, Phila., Bulletin No. 2, March, 
1894. 

(4) A. P. Low: "Explorations in the Labrador Penin- 
sula." Geolog. Surv. Can., Part L, Annual Report, Vol. VIII, 
1896. 

The list here given was compiled by Prof. Macoun. It 
contains four columns, of which only the first applies to the 
coast of Labrador, and includes all previous reports from 
that region, but without definite mention of locality. His 
other three columns include only plants found further west, 
in the interior, and for the most part in portions of the pen- 
insula now included in Quebec and not in Labrador proper. 

(5) A. C. Waghorne: The Flora of Newfoundland, 
Labrador, and St. Pierre et Miquelon. St, John's, 1893, 1895, 
1898. 

This list aims to bring up to its final date all previous 
local references, but includes only phenogamous plants as far 
as Plantaginacese in Gray's order of families. 

(6) M. L. Fernald and J. D. Sornborger: "Some Re- 
cent Additions to the Labrador Flora." Reprinted from 
The Ottawa Naturalist, Vol. XIII, July, 1899. 

(7) John Macoun: Catalogue of Canadian Plants. 
1883-92. 

In regard to all species not previously reported from 
Labrador, or in case of which I find only one or two previous 
local references, I have consulted Britton and Brown's 
Illustrated Flora of the Nortlvern States and Canada (New 
York, 1896-98), and Gray's Synoptical Fhra of North 
America, so far as it is yet completed. I count as not 
previously reported even those stated by these authorities 



174 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

as occurring in Labrador, inasmuch as many so reported 
were observed in Canadian portions of the Labrador penin- 
sula, unless in the above lists they are given definite locality 
within the limits of Labrador proper as these limits are now 
defined, i. e., from Blanc Sablon north to latitude 52°, thence 
along the height of land to a point on Ungava Bay, a little 
south of Cape Chidley, and thence following the coast 
around the latter back to Blanc Sablon. 

None of the fungi here definitely or approximately 
named have been previously reported in the above-named 
lists. Of the mosses, eleven are new to the Labrador coast, 
and five others have been reported heretofore from one 
locality only. All seven of the hepatics here named are now 
reported for the first time, although three of these names can 
be given as yet only provisionally. Five of the lichens are 
apparently new to Labrador. 

Among the phenogamous plants there is a considerable 
number that are of especial interest. Twenty-three of them 
are new to the Labrador coast. Two of these {Pyrola 
chlorantha and Salix uva-ursi) have been reported already 
indefinitely from the "coast," but this may refer sometimes 
to that part of the coast that belongs to Quebec. Nine are 
new to the coast, but have been found previously in other 
parts of the Labrador peninsula. These are : Oxytropis 
podocarpa, Saxifraga Hir cuius, Gentiana propinqua, Abies 
balsamea, Juncus castaneus, Luzula hyperborea, Eriophorum 
alpinum, Catebrosa aquatica, Poa nemoralis. Six others also 
are new under names here given, but may probably have 
been reported before under the name of another species or 
variety, namely: Stellaria humifusa var. ovalifolia, Epilobium 
angustifolium forma stenophylla, Ccelopleurum actceifolium. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D, 175 

Pyrola rotundifolia, Salix Groenlandica, Salix Labradorica. 
Six are entirely new to Labrador; one of them {Carex Uli- 
folid) has never been known east of Manitoba; one (Carex 
compactd) now appears southward of its usual limits, Green- 
land and Arctic America; four {Dicentra Canadensis, Poly- 
gonum littorale, Festuca rubra, Lycopodium lucidulum) are now 
extended to the north of their previous limits. 

Of those which were already known on the Labrador 
coast, a few appear in localities considerably beyond the ones 
where they have been found before. Thus, for Poa alpina, 
Cape Chidley or Nain was previously the southern limit, but 
it is now found on Hare Island, almost in the extreme south; 
while two (Calmagrostis Canadensis, Hierochloe borealis), 
which were before unknown north of Hamilton Inlet or 
Hopedale, are now found as far north as Port Manvers or 
Nachvak. Besides these, there are among the phenogamous 
plants about fifty that have been reported previously only 
from a singe locality, or by a single authority. 

In all, about 500 specimens are included in the collec- 
tion. These have yielded the list given below, which in- 
cludes not far from 300 names, of which 45 are from identi- 
fications made by myself alone, unconfirmed by specimens 
preserved. The latter will be easily detected in the list from 
the lack of numbers referring to specimens, and cannot be 
considered so authoritative as the others. 

In the list that follows, an asterisk (*) preceding a name 
means that the plant has not been previously definitely re- 
ported from the Labrador coast; a dagger (f) means that it 
has been previously reported only from a single locality or 
by a single authority. 

In the local references, first are given the localities of all 



1/6 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

the specimens in my collection, following the number of the 
specimen. Most of these references are from definite local- 
ities; a few are recorded merely as from Southern Labrador, 
and of these the majority were collected in the vicinity of 
St. Lewis Sound or of Seal Islands. Such terms as "Hebron- 
Nachvak" mean that the plant occurs at one or the other, 
or between, the two places. Specimens from Mt. Faunce 
were collected between 3,500 and 4,400 feet above sea-level 
at our most northern point. After the initials E. B. D. are 
given the localities where the plant occurs according to 
my own observation, unsupported by collected specimens. 
Finally, after the word "Previously," come former references, 
the authorities being abbreviated as follows: B :, Bryant; all 
these are from the basin of the Grand or Hamilton River. 
BM :, Macoun's list in columns 4 and 5 of Bell's report. 
F :, Fernald and Sornborger. L :, Macoun's list in column i of 
Low's report. M :, Macoun's catalogue. P:, Macoun's list 
in Packard. W :, Waghorne. Later references to the same 
locality are not given when taken from an earlier source; and 
references merely to the "coast of Labrador" or to "Labra- 
dor" are rarely given when definite localities can be named, 
because it is often uncertain whether those terms refer to 
Labrador proper. 

The dates of collection or observation of the plants, to- 
gether with the comparative position of the stations, can be 
determined by reference to the list of stations given in Sec- 
tion IL 

No attempt is made to enumerate all Labrador plants, 
the list being confined to those observed or collected on this 
expedition. 



E. B. Dclabarre, Ph. D. 177 

A. PHENOGAMOUS PLANTS. 

Ranunculaceae : 

Coptis trifolia, Salisb. (Goldthread). E. B. D. : Great Caribou 
Island, Rodney Mimdy Island, Jigger Island, Ford Harbor. 
Previously: W: Forteau (Butler); Battle Harbor and other 
places. 

tRanuneulus hyperboreus, Rottb. (Northern Crowfoot). (142) 
Hopedale. Previously: W: Cape Chidley (Cat. Ill, 480); doubtful 
specimen from Pack's Harbor. E. B. D. : This plant is well-known 
at Hopedale, but was called R. pygmseus by Dr. Hettasch there. 

Ranunculus nivalis, L. (55) Hebron-Nachvak. Previously : P. 
Hopedale (Weiz). BM: Cape Chidley. 

tRanuneulus pygmaeus, Wahl. (53) Hebron-Nachvak; (25) Mt. 
Faunce. E. B. D. : Cape Mugford. Previously: BM: Cape Chid- 
ley ; attributed to Hopedale by Packard (Weiz) , but this is probably 
the R. hyperboreus above. P: Coast of Lab. (Pursh). 
Papaveracese : 

Papaver nudieaule, L. (Arctic Poppy). (90) Port Manvers; (35) 
Nachvak. E. B. D. : Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: P: Hopedale 
Islands (Weiz); BM: Cape Chidley. 

Papaver sp. (23) Mt. Faunce. 
Pumariaeese : 

♦Dicentra Canadensis, DC. (Squirrel Com). (295) St. Charles 
River. No previous record of any Fumariaceae. This specimen has 
the leaves only. 
Cruciferse : 

Arabis alpina, L. (Mountain Cress) . (80a) Port Manvers or Mug- 
ford; (78) Mugford; (52) Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: BM: 
Cape Chidley. P: Coast of Labrador (Kohlmeister) ; Forteau (But- 
ler); Hopedale Islands (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor. 

Cardamine pratensis, L. (Cuckoo Flower, Ladies' Smock). (56) 
Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley. P: Hopedale 
(Weiz) . 

Cochlearia sp. (50) Hebron-Nachvak. 

The species of Cochlearia are almost impossible to determine. Several 

are reported from Labrador, two by Packard (Weiz) from Hopedale, 

all others from|south of Hamilton Inlet. 
tDraba aurea, Vahl. (93, 94) Port Manvers. Previously: P: 

Hopedale (Weiz). 
Draba incana, L. (Whitlow-grass). (186) Southern Labrador; 

(250) Pottle's Cove; (150) Rodney Mundy Island; (22) Mt. Faunce. 

E. B. D, : Pomiadluk. Previously: P: Coast of Lab. (Pursh); 

Hopedale (Weiz); Nachvak (Bell). W: Battle Harbor, Snack Cove, 



178 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

Square Islands, L'anse au Clair. Some of these references apply to 
var. confusa, Poir. 

fDraba nivalis, Lilj. (fide B. L. R.) (43) Hebron-Ramah. Previ- 
ously: F: Cape Chidley, Okkak. 

Draba sp. (161) Rodney Mundy Island. 
Violaeese : 
Viola blanda, Willd. (White Violet). E. B. D. : Aillik-Mokkovik. 

Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor. 
Viola canina, L.,var. ? E. B. D.: Mosquito Bight, common; Ford 

Harbor. Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 

W: Forteau (Butler); Sandwich Bay (Shears). 

Caryophyllacese : 
Arenaria GrcBnIandica, Spreng. (Greenland Sandwort). (153) 
Pomiadluk; (123) Ford Harbor. E. B. D.: Hebron-Saglek (proba- 
bly). Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: 
Sandwich Bay (Shears) ; Venison Tickle. 

Arenaria peploides, L. (Seaside Sandwort). (220) Southern Labra- 
dor. B. B. D. : Common on the shore everywhere, as far north at 
least as Hebron; specially noted at Great Caribou Island, Pottle's 
Cove, Jigger Island, Aillik and Mokkovik, Ford Harbor, Iterungnek. 
Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Forteau (Butler); Seal 
Islands, Snack Cove, Turner's Head. 

t Arenaria Sajanensis, Willd. (33) Nachvak. Previously: W : Cape 
Chidley (C. H. Geo. S. Can., V. 5). 

Cerastium alpinum, L. (Mouse-ear Chickweed) . (188) Southern Lab. ; 
(249) Pottle's Cove ; (177) Rodney Mundy Island ; (14) Nachvak ; 
(21) Mt. Faunce. E. B. D. : Common ; noted also at Aillik Bay, 
Ford Harbor, Iterungnek, Saglek. Previously : BM : Nachvak- 
Nain. P : Hopedale Island (Weiz) ; Forteau (Butler). W : Sand- 
wich Bay (Shears) ; Battle Harbor. M : Ford's Harbor, Cape Chid- 
ley (Bell). 

Lychnis alpina, L. (88) Port Manvers ; (62) Hebron-Nachvak. 
E. B. D. : Iterungnek, Ramah-Nachvak, Nachvak. Previously : 
BM : Nachvak-Nain: P : Coast of Lab. (Morrison) ; Hopedale 
(Weiz). W: Snack Cove. 

Lychnis apetala, L. (47) Ramah. Previously: BM : Cape Chid- 
ley. P : Coast of Lab. (Morrison) . 

t Sagina procumbens, L. ? (178) Rodney Mundy Island ; (117) Ford 
Harbor. Previously : F : Hebron. 

Silene acaulis, L. (Moss Campion) (191) Southern Lab. ; (246) Pot- 
tle's Cove. E. B. D. : Common throughout the region; specially noted 
at Great Caribou Island, Seal Island, Rodney Mundy Island, Ford 
Harbor, Saglek Bay. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak- 
Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor, L'anse au Loup. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 179 

Stellaria borealis, Bigel. (Northern Stitchwort). (304) St. Charles 
River; (156) Jigger Island. Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: 
Battle Harbor, Venison Tickle. 

Stellaria humifusa,Rottb. (219) Southern Lab. ; (156a) Jigger Island; 
(51, 54a) Hebron-Nachvak. E. B. D. : Great Caribou Island, Rod- 
ney Mundy Island; Iterungnek? Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain., 
P: Hopedale (Weiz); Seashore Lab. (Pursh). W: Battle Harbor and 
several places along the coast. 

* Stellaria humifusa, Rottb. var. ovalifolia, Fenzl. A specimen, 

so named by Mr. Collins, was found by him among the mosses given 
him for identification. Its exact locality cannot be given. 

Stellaria longipes, Goldie. (247, 257) Pottle's Cove, (120) Ford 
Harbor. E, B. D. : Jigger Island. Previously: W: Battle Har- 
bor (Bull) ; Sandwich Bay (Shears) ; Pack's Harbor, L'anse au 
Loup. Several varieties are given by various authorities, with locali- 
ties extending to the extreme north, 

Portulaeaeeae : 
Montia fontana, L. (Water Blinks or Chickweed). (54) Hebron- 
Nachvak. Previously: P: Coast of Lab. (Gmelin). W: Battle 
Harbor, Emily Harbor, Cape Charles, Seal Islands, Pack's Harbor. 

LeguminosaB : 
Astragalus alpinus, L. (Milk- vetch) . (209, 210) Southern Labra- 
dor; (258) Pottle's Cove ; (7) Nachvak. All of these specimens con- 
sist of leaves only, and are named with some doubt. They are un- 
questionably, however, identical with what has been thus identified 
previously. E. B. D.: Exceedingly common at all stations through- 
out the entire coast region. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nach- 
vak-Nain. P: Forteau (Butler); Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Har- 
bor, Sandwich Bay. 

Lathyrus maritimus, Bigelow. (Everlasting Pea, Beach Pea). (206, 
241) Southern Lab. ; (254) ? Pottle's Cove. E. B. D. : Great Caribou 
Island, Jigger Island. Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Bat- 
tle Harbor, St. Michael's and other places. 

Oxytropis campestris, DC, var. coerulea, Koch, (fide B. L. R.). 
(175) Rodney Mundy Island. E. B. D.: This, or something similar, 
at Brig Harbor Island, Ford Harbor, Iterungnek-Saglek. Pre- 
viously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P : Forteau (Butler) ; 
Hopedale (Weiz); Square Island (Allen). W: Battle Harbor, Sand- 
wich Bay, Grosswater Bay. 

* Oxytropis podocarpa. Gray. (49) Hebron-Nachvak. No definite 
previous reference. P. speaks of it as in the Herb. Gray ; M. refers 
it to " Labrador ' ' on the authority of Gray. 

Rosacese: 
Alchemilla vulgaris, L. (Lady's Mantle). (195) Southern Lab. ; 



i8o Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

{Tl) Mugford. Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle 
Harbor, L'anse au Loup, Blanc Sablon. 

Amelanehier Canadensis, van oligoearpa, T, & G. (Shad-Bush, 
Juneberry, Indian Pear). E. B. D. : Great Caribou Island, Aillik- 
Mokkovik. Previously; W : Deep Water Creek, Pack's Harbor. 
Low speaks of its occurrence in the interior northward to Big and 
Hamilton Rivers. 

Comarum palustre, L. ? (Potentilla palustris, Scop.). (181) Rod- 
ney Mundy Island. E. B. D. : Saglek Bay ? Previously : P: Hope- 
dale (Weiz) . W ; not uncommon along the coast of Southern Lab. 

Dryas ootopetala, L., probably van integrifolia, C. & S. (199) 
Southern Lab.: (72) Mugford; (15) Nachvak. E. B. D. : Port Man- 
vers, Iterungnek-Saglek. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nach- 
vak- Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz); Point Amour (Butler). W: Battle 
Harbor. F: Ramah. 

Potentilla anserina, L. (Silverweed) . (205) Southern Lab. E. B. 
D. : Great Caribou Island, Jigger Island, Aillik-Mokkovik, Ford Har- 
bor and vicinity, Saglek Bay. Abundant on the shore. Previously : 
BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor and 
other places. 

tPotentilla nivea, L. (147) Pomiadluk. Previously : P : Hopedale 
(Weiz). M: Labrador (Hooker). 

Potentilla rubens, Vill. (P. maculata, Poir.) (244) Pottle's Cove. 
E. B. D. : Iterungnek-Saglek? Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. 
P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Long Point. M: Cape Chidley (Bell). 

Potentilla tridentata, Ait. (Three-toothed Cinquefoil). E. B. D.: 
Rodney Mundy Island, Jigger Island, Ford Harbor, Iterungnek. 
Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Many 
places on the Labrador. 

Pyrus Americana, DC, van (American Mountain Ash), E. B. D. : 
Great Caribou Island, Aillik Bay. Previously : P: var. microcarpa, 
Hopedale (Weiz). 

Rubus aroticus, L. (Arctic Raspberry, Dewberry, Eye-berry). (190) 
Southern Lab.; (259) Pottle's Cove; (141) Hopedale; (119) Ford Har- 
bor. E. B. D. : Common at least as far north as Hebron. Specially 
noted at Rodney Mundy Island, Jigger Island, Aillik-Mokkovik, 
Iterungnek. Number of petals very variable, from 4 to 8, usually 6. 
Apparently rarely fertile, none of its fruit being found by us. Pre- 
viously: This or var. grandiflorus: BM: Nachvak Nain. P: Hope- 
dale (Weiz). W: Straits of Belle Isle, Indian Harbor, Holton. 

Rubus Chamsemorus, L. (Bake-apple, Cloud-berry). (192, 203) 
Southern Lab. ; (217) St. Lewis Sound, Seal Islands. E. B. D. : Very 
common at all stations as far north as Hebron; rare beyond. Petals 
and calyx-lobes very variable, from 4 to 6. Apparently rarely fertile. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. i8i 

Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Straits of Belle Isle (St. 

Cyr) ; Hopedale (Weiz). W: very common (Macoun). Low: in the 

swamps everywhere throughout Labrador to beyond the tree limit. 

M: abundant in Labrador, etc. (Fowler's Cat.). 
Rubus strigosus, Michx. (Red Raspberry). B. B. D.: Aillik-Mok- 

kovik; Port Man vers? Previously: W: frequent in many places 

from the Straits to Hamilton Inlet. F: Mallijak in Hamilton Inlet. 
Rubus triflorus, Richardson. (Dewberry, Eye-berry, Plumboy). 

E. B. D. : Rodney Mundy Island? Aillik-Mokkovik ? Previously: 

P: Forteau (Butler). W: Capstan Island and several places in the 

Straits and northward. 
Rubus sp. (149) Rodney Mundy Island. 
Sibbaldia proeumbens, L. (260) Pottle's Cove; (71) Mugford. 

Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). M: Cape 

Chidley (Bell). 

Saxifragaeese : 

Parnassia parviflora, DC. (65) Saglek Bay; (36) Nachvak. Pre- 
viously: W: L'anse au Mort, Holton, Forteau, Long Point. 

Ribes lacustre, Poir. (Swamp Gooseberry). E. B. D. : Great Cari- 
bou Island? Previously: W: L'anse au Clair, L'anse au Mort. 
F: Red Bay. 

Ribes prostratum, L'Her. (Fetid Currant). E. B. D.: Mosquito 
Bight? Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: S. Michaels, L'anse 
au Clair. 

Saxifraga aizoides, L. (59) Saglek- Ramah (Sorviluk River). Pre- 
viously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: southeast coast of Lab. (Butler); 
Hopedale (Weiz). W: L'anse au Mort. M: Cape Chidley (Bell). 

tSaxifraga Aizoon, Jacq. (143, 145) Pomiadluk; (73) Mugford; 
(4, 12) Nachvak. E. B. D.: Saglek Bay. Previously: P: Coast 
of Lab. (Morrison); Hopedale (Weiz). 

Saxifraga esespitosa, L. (185) Southern Lab.; (20) Mt. Faunce, 

E. B. D.: This or a var. at Pottle's Cove, Ford Harbor, Saglek Bay. 

Previously : W : Battle Harbor. M : Cape Chidley (Bell) . P : var. 

Groenlandica, Hopedale (Weiz) ; Forteau (Butler) ; Nachvak (Bell). 
Saxifraga cernua, L. (144) Pomiadluk. E. B. D. : Saglek Bay ? 

Previously : BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz) ; Coast of 

Lab. (Pursh). M: Cape Chidley (Bell). 
*Saxifraga Hireulus, L. (196) Southern Lab. ; (84) Port Manvers. 
Saxifraga nivalis, L. (24) Mt. Faimce. Previously : BM : (var.) 

Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz) ; Coast of Lab. (Pursh). W : 

Bolster Rocks (Bull). M : Cape Chidley (Bell). 
Saxifraga rivularis, L. (48) Hebron-Nachvak. E. B. D. : Saglek 

Bay. Previously : BM : Cape Chidley. P : Hopedale (Weiz). W: 

Battle Harbor, Holton. M : Nachvak (Bell). 



1 82 Report of the Brozvn-Harvard Expedition. 

tSaxifraga tricuspidata, Retz. (32) Nachvak. E. B. D. : Saglek 
Bay. Previously: ,BM : Nachvak-Nain. P: Coast of Lab. (Mc- 
GillCol. Herb.). 

Saxifraga sp. (197) Southern Lab. ; (70) Mugford. 

Crassulacese : 
Sedum Rhodiola, DC. (Roseroot). E. B. D. : Very variable, and 
perhaps several varieties or even species. Common at almost all 
stations as far north as Hebron. Previously : BM : Nachvak-Nain. 
P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: frequent along the coast. M: Cape 
Chidley (Bell). 

Droseracese : 
fDrosera rotundifolia, L. (Sundew). E. B. D.: Great Caribou 
Island, Aillik-Mokkovik. Previously : P : Coast of Lab. (Hooker) ; 
Hopedale (Weiz). 

Haloragese : 
Hippuris vulgaris. L. (Mare's Tail). (134,159) Brig Harbor Island. 
E. B. D. : Jigger Island; Iterungnek. Previously: BM : Cape 
Chidley. P : Hopedale (Weiz). W : Fox Harbor. 

Onagracese : 

Epilobium alpinum, L., var. raajus, Gray. (63) Hebron- Nachvak. 
Previously (E. Homemanni Reichenb.) : W : Pinware, Cart- 
wright, Forteau, Blanc Sablon, Pack's Harbor. F : Mallijak (Hamil- 
ton Inlet), Mokkovik, Ramah, Okkak. 

Epilobium angustifolium, L. (E. spicatum. Lam.) (Fireweed, Wil- 
low Herb). (271) American Tickle (Seal Islands) ; (252) Pottle's Cove; 
(133) Ford Harbor. E. B. D. : This or the following common at 
Mosquito Bight, Aillik Bay. Iterungnek, Nachvak. Previously : 
BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: southern Lab., 
Sandwich Bay. 

♦Epilobium angustifolium, Lam., forma stenophylla, Hausch. 

(299) St. Charles River ; (97) Ford Harbor. 
Epilobium palustre, L. ; var. ? (269) American Tickle (Seal 

Islands). Previously : L : Coast of Lab. P : (E. lineare) Hopedale 

(Weiz). W : Pack's Harbor, Forteau, Blanc Sablon, Battle Harbor, 

Mullin's Cove. 

Umbelliferss : 

Archangelica sp. ? (298) St. Charles River ; (277, 278) American 
Tickle (Seal Islands). E. B. D. : Abundant at Pottle's Cove, Jigger 
Island. Previously : (A. atropurpurea, Hoffm.) : BM : Nachvak- 
Nain. P : Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor. 

*Coelopleurum aetseifolium. Coulter & Rose (fide B. L. R.) (276) 
American Tickle. E. B. D. : Mosquito Bight. Previously only C. 
Gmelini, Ledeb. 

Genus unknown : (261, 262) Pottle's Cove. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 183 

Oornacese : 

Cornus Canadensis, L. (Bunchberry). E. B. D. ; Apparently- 
several varieties : very common everywhere as far north as Ford 
Harbor. Previously: BM : Nachvak-Nain. P : Forteau (Butler); 
Hopedale (Weiz). W : Straits of Belle Isle and north. Var. suecica,' 
L. noted by BM : Nachvak-Nain. 

Caprifoliacese : 
Linngea borealis, L. (Twin-flower). (180) Rodney Mundy Island; 
(139) Hopedale; (82,87) Port Manvers; (49a) Hebron-Nachvak.' 
Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P : Hopedale (Weiz) . W: Pack's 
Harbor, Forteau. 

Lonicera cserulea, L. (Mountain Honeysuckle). (189) Southern 
Lab. E. B. D.: St. Charles River, Pomiadluk, Aillik Bay. Previ- 
ously: W: Indian Harbor, Battle Harbor, L'anse au Loup, Blanc 
Sablon. 

Viburnum pauciflorum. La Pylaie. (Arrow- wood) . (154) Mos- 
quito Bight. Previously: F: Red Bay, Webeck,Mokkovik,Okkak. 
Compositse : 

Achillea millefolium, L.; perhaps var. nigrescens, Meyer. (Yar- 
row). E. B. D,: Pottle's Cove, abundant; Jigger Island. Previ- 
ously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 

Antennaria alpina, DC. (Everlasting). (83) Port Manvers. 
E. B. D. : Some species of Antennaria also at Ford Harbor. Previ- 
ously : P: Coast of Lab. (Kohlmeister); Hopedale (Weiz) M- Cape 
Chidley (Bell). ' ^ 

tAntennaria hyperborea, Don. (83a) Port Manvers. Previously: 
F: Ramah; formerly by Kohlmeister and at Okkak. 

Arnica alpina, Murr. (76) Mugford; (5, 11) Nachvak. E. B. D.: 
Common at all points from Port Manvers to Nachvak. Previously : 
BM: Cape Chidley. P: Coast of Lab. (Torr. and Gray); Hopedale 
Islands ( Weiz ) . M : Nachvak ( Bell ) . 

Artemisia borealis, Pall. (Wormwood). (125) Ford Harbor; (61) 
Hebron-Nachvak. E. B. D. : Ramah. Previously: varieties' only 
reported by P: Hopedale Islands (Weiz); F: Ramah. M: Coast 
(Kohlmeister). 

Aster radula, Ait. (274) Hopedale (Sept.). Previously: W: Bat- 
tle Harbor, L'anse au Loup. Var. stricta by P: Hopedale (Weiz); 
W: Square Islands, Capstan Island. 

tCrepis nana, Richardson. (58) Ramah. Previously: F: Ramah. 

Erigeron uniflorus, L. (Fleabane). (74) Mugford; (31) Nachvak. 
E. B. D.: Iterungnek-Saglek. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, 
Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz); coast of Lab. (Kohlmeister).' 

Hieraeium vulgatum, Fries. (Hawkweed). (92) Mugford. Pre- 



184 Report of the Brozmi-H award Expedition. 

viously: P: Hopedale (Weiz); coast of Lab. ( Kohlmeister) . F: 

Ramah, 
fPetasites palmata, Gray. (Sweet Coltsfoot), (281) Pomiadltik. 

E. B. D.: Aillik Bay, Iterungnek, Saglek. Previously: P: coast 

of Lab. (Hooker); Hopedale Islands (Weiz). 
Senecio pauciflorus, Pursh. (Groundsel, Ragwort). (75) Mugford. 

E. B. D.: Ramah- Nachvak. Previously: (S. atireus, L., var. bore- 

alis, T. & G.): BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale Islands (Weiz). 
tSenecio vulgaris, L. (287) St. Francis Harbor; (275) Hopedale 

(Sept.). Previously: F: Hopedale. 
Solidago macrophylla, Pursh. (Golden-rod). (283) Southern Lab. » 

(285) Hare Island; (253) Pottle's Cove; (67) Hebron; (28) Nachvak. 

Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: For- 

teau, L'anse au Clair, Battle Harbor, Deep Water Creek, Venison 

Tickle. 
Solidago Virga-aurea, L. (151) Pomiadluk; (109)? Ford Harbor. 

E. B. D.: This or the previous also at Rodney Mundy Island, Aillik 

Bay, Hebron, Iterungnek, Saglek; common. Previously: (var. 

alpina) : BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 

Taraxacum dens-leonis, Desf. (Dandelion). (152) Mosquito Bight; 
(126) Ford Harbor. E. B. D.: Pottle's Cove, Jigger Island, Hebron- 
Iterungnek, Ramah-Nachvak. Previously: (T. officinale): W: Bat- 
tle Harbor and other places. F: Ramah. Varieties reported byBM: 
Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain; P: Hopedale (Weiz). 

Genera unknown : (232) Seal Islands; (256) Pottle's Cove. 

Campanulacese : 
Campanula sp. (Harebell). E. B. D. : Common from Port Manvers 
northward. Probably one or more of the following species. Pre- 
viously: (C. rotundifolia) : W: Battle Harbor, Straits of Belle Isle. 
(C. rotundifolia var. arctica) : P: Forteau (Steams); Hopedale 
(Weiz). (C. unifiora): BM: Cape Chidley. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
(C. Scheuchzeri var. heterodoxa) : BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. 
M (III, 560) : This is to be referred to C. rotundifolia. 

Ericacese : 
Andromeda polifolia, L. (198) Great Caribou Island. Previously: 

P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Indian Harbor, Square Islands, etc. 
Arctostaphylos alpina, Spreng. (Alpine Bearberry). (187) South- 
em Lab.: (169) Rodney Mundy Island; (2) Nachvak. These speci- 
mens have leaves only, and are therefore named with some doubt; 
but are certainly identical with what has previously been so identi- 
fied. E. B. D.: Very common at all stations throughout the coast 
region. Berries without much flavor and not used by the natives. 
Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale 
(Weiz). W: Battle Harbor, L'anse au Loup. 



E. B. Dclabarre, Ph. D. 185 

Bryanthus taxifolius, Gray. (214, 216, 238) Southern Lab. E. B. 
D. : Common at least as far north as Saglek. Specially noted at 
Great Caribou Island, Sloop Harbor (near Seal Islands) , Pottle's Cove, 
Rodney Mundy Island, Ford Harbor, Iterungnck-Saglek. Pre- 
viously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle 
Harbor, Seal Islands, L'anse au Clair. 

Cassandra ealiculata, Don. (Leather-leaf). (221) Southern Lab, 
E. B. D. : Great Caribou Island; abundant at Sloop Harbor (Seal 
Islands). Previously: P: Coast (Hooker); Square Island Harbor 
(Mann). W: Battle Harbor. 

Cassiope hypnoides, Don. (101) Island near Ford Harbor. E. B. 
D. : Iterungnek-Saglek. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley. P: Hope- 
dale (Weiz). M: Nain (Bell). 

Cassiope tetragona, Don. (57) Hebron-Nachvak. E. B. D.: Not 
uncommon all the way from Hebron to Nachvak. Previously: 
P: Hopedale (Weiz); coast (Kohlmeister) ; Nain, Nachvak (Bell). 

Kalmia angustifolia, L. (Sheep Laurel), (226) St. Charles River. 
E. B.D.: Sloop Harbor (Seal Islands); rare. Previously: P: Coast 

(Morrison). W: West St. Modest, Chatham, Battle Harbor. 

Kalmia glauca, Ait. (Pale Laurel). (227) St. Charles River; (176) 
Rodney Mundy Island. E. B. D.: Great Caribou Island, Sloop Har- 
bor (Seal Islands), Ford Harbor. Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. 
P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor and a few other places. 

Ledum latifolium. Ait. (Labrador Tea). (171, 172, 173) Rodney 
Mundy Island; (19) Nachvak. E. B. D. : see Ledum sp., below. Pre- 
viously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz); coast (Mor- 
rison). 

Ledum palustre, L. (240) Southern Lab.; (164) Rodney Mimdy 
Island. E. B. D. : see Ledum sp., below. Previously: BM: Cape 
Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz); coast (Morrison). 
W: Seal Islands, Pack's Harbor, Snack Cove. 

Ledum sp. E. B. D. : Ledum is exceedingly common at all places on 
the coast. L. latifolium is the more abundant southward, L. palustre 
toward the north. Either the L. palustre is very variable, or an in- 
termediate species exists along with the latter. In appearance it 
certainly seems distinct from the other two : its leaves are interme- 
diate between the oblong leaves of the latifolium and the linear 
shape of the palustre; its capsule is short-oval; its number of 
stamens varies within the same cluster of flowers from 5 to 11, 
mostly from 7 to 9. Its distribution is the same as that of L. palus- 
tre. This may be the L. palustre var. dilatatum (Wahl) of Macotm 
(II, 301), having broader leaves and sometimes short oval capsule, ap- 
proaching L. latifolium; and reported by him only from the Pacific 
coast. 



1 86 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

Loiseleuria proGumbens, Desv. (Alpine Azalea), (218, 239) South- 
em Lab. E. B. D.: Great Caribou Island, Pottle's Cove, Rodney 
Mundy Island, Brig Harbor Island. Common in the more southern, 
rare in the more northern localities. Previously: BM: Nachvak- 
Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor, Seal Islands. 

Moneses uniflora. Gray. (Pyrola uniflora, L.). (136) Hopedale. 
Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Turner's Head, Hamilton 
Inlet, Venison Tickle, St. Michael's, L'anse au Clair. 

*Pyrola chlorantha, Swartz. E. B.D.: PortManvers. Previously: 

Coast (Morrison, Richardson, Gray). 

*Pyrola rotundifolia, L. (Wintergreen, Shin-leaf). (8.> Port 
Manvers. 

Pyrola rotundifolia, L., var. pumila. Hook, (fide B. L. R). (9) Nach- 
vak. E. B. D.: Hopedale, Ford Harbor, Iterungnek-Saglek. Pre- 
viously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
W: Battle Harbor. 

Rhododendron Lapponieum, Wahl. (60) Hebron-Nachvak. Pre- 
viously: BM: Nachvak. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 

t Vaeeinium Canadense, Kalm. ? (228) St. Charles River. Pre- 
viously: B: Hamilton River. 

Vaeeinium Pennsylvanicum, Lam., var. angustifolium. Gray. 
(Blueberry; Hurts). (228)? St, Charles River. E. B. D,: Great 
Caribou Island, Rodney Mundy Island. Previously: P: Hopedale 
(Weiz); Nain (Lundbery). W: Snack Cove, Sandwich Bay. 

Vaeeinium uliginosum, L. (Blueberry). E. B. D.: Great Caribou 
Island, Rodney Mundy Island, Brig Harbor Island, Ford Harbor, 
Mugford, and abundant all the way from Hebron to Nachvak. Pre- 
viously: BM: Cape Chidley , Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
W: Blanc Sablon, Deep Water Creek, Seal Islands, Hamilton Inlet. 

Vaeeinium Vitis-Idsea, L. (Mountain Cranberry, Redberry). 
(222) Southern Lab.; (265) Pottle's Cove; (167) Rodney Mundy 
Island. E, B. D,: Abundant everywhere as far north as Hebron, 
Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale 
(Weiz). W: Abimdant and widely distributed. 

Vaeeinium sp. (168) Rodney Mundy Island. 

Diapensiaceas : 
Diapensia Lapponiea, L. (204) Southern Lab.; (174)? Rodney 
Mundy Island. E. B. D. : Common almost everywhere throughout 
the coastal region. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak- 
Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz), 

Plumbaginaeese : 
Armeria (statice) vulgaris, Willd. (Common Thrift, Sea Pink). 
(130) Ford Harbor; (102) Island near Ford Harbor; (10, 18) 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 187 

Nachvak. E. B. D. : Common everywhere north of Ford Harbor. 
Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
Primulacese : 

Primula Mistassinica, Michx. (155) Jigger Island. Previously: 
P: Forteau (Butler); Hopedale (Weiz). W: Battle Harbor. 

Priraula farinosa, L. (Bird's-eye Primrose). (245) Pottle's Cove. 
Previously: BM: Nachvak. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Sandwich 
Bay, Battle Harbor, Long Point (Hamilton Inlet), L'anse au Clair. 

Trientalis Americana, Pursh. (Star-flower). E. B. D. : Great Cari- 
bou Island, Pottle's Cove, Mosquito Bight, Aillik Bay, Ford Harbor, 
and Iterungnek-Saglek. Previously: P: Coast (Hooker); Hope- 
dale (Weiz) ; W: Appears to be quite common everywhere. 

Gentianaeese: 

* Gentiana propinqua, Rich. (64) Near Saglek Bay, on north bank 
of river flowing into Kajuktok, southerly slope, about 350 feet above 
sea level. 

Menyanthes trifoliata, L. (Buckbean). E. B. D.: Near head of 
Mokkovik Bay. Previously: P: Coast (Morrison); Hopedale 
(Weiz). W: Holton. 

Pleurogyne rotata, Griseb. (268) American Island (Seal Islands); 
(273) Hopedale (Sept.). Previously: P: Coast (Gray). W: Bat- 
tle Harbor, Sandwich Bay, Hamilton Inlet. 

Borraginacese : 

Mertensia maritima, Don. (Sea Lungwort), (297) St. Charles 
River; (255) Pottle's Cove. E. B. D,: Common on the shore; noted 
at Jigger Island, AiUik-Mokkovik, Nachvak. Previously: BM: 
Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Straits of Belle Isle, In- 
dian Harbor, St. Michael's. 

Scrophulariaeese : 

tBartsia alpina, L. (86) Port Man vers; (17) Nachvak. Previously: 
P: Coast of Lab. (Kohlmeister). M: Nachvak (Bell). 

Castilleia pallida, Kunth, var. septentrionalis, Gray. (Painted 
Cup). E. B. D.: Pomiadluk, Ford Harbor, Iterungnek-Saglek. 
Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 

tEuphrasia latifolia, Pursh. (30) Nachvak. Previously: F: Mok- 
kovik, Hopedale. 

Euphrasia sp. (34) Nachvak. E. B. D.: Some species, perhaps lati- 
folia, perhaps officinalis, noted at Hopedale, Ford Harbor, Port Man- 
vers, Iterungnek, Nachvak. Previously: (E. officinahs): BM: 
Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: L'anse au Clair, Battle 
Harbor, Fox Harbor. 

Pedicularis euphrasioides, Steph. (242, 279, 280) Southern Lab. 
(170) Rodney Mundy Island; (95) Port Manvers. E. B. D: Brig 
Harbor Island, Ford Harbor, Iterungnek-Saglek. Previously: BM;. 



1 88 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W: Sandwich Bay (Quinton); 
Holton (How). M: Coast (Kohlmeister). 
Pedicularis flammea, L. (243) Southern Lab. E, B. D.: Pottle's 
Cove, Iterungnek-Saglek. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nach- 
vak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz); coast (Kohlmeister). 

Pedicularis Groenlandica, Retz. (96) Port Man vers. E. B, D.: 
Pomiadluk, Iterungnek-Saglek. Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. 
P: Hopedale (Weiz). 

tRhinanthus Crista-galli, L. (Yellow Rattle). E. B. D.: Hope- 
dale; Iterungnek-Saglek? Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). 

Veronica alpina, L. (Speedwell). (89) Port Man vers, Iterungnek- 
Saglek. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley. P: Hopedale (Weiz); 
Nain (Lundberg). 

Lentibulariaeese : 

fPinguieula villosa, L. ? (166) Rodney Mundy Island; (6, 13) 
Nachvak. Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). M: Labrador (Gray). 

Pinguicula sp. (163) Jigger Island ; (146) Pomiadluk. E. B. D.: 
Two species noted, a smaller at Pottle's Cove, Brig Harbor Island; a 
larger in abim dance at Pomiadluk; both at Ford Harbor; one of 
them at Saglek Bay. Previously: (P. alpina)': P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
(P. vulgaris): BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). W. For- 
teau. Battle Harbor, Seal Islands, Snack Cove, Holton. 

Plantaginacese : 
Plantago maritima, L. (Seaside Plantain). (224) St. Charles River; 
(157) Pomiadluk; (128) Ford Harbor. E. B. D.: Probably this 
species also at Aillik-Mokkovik, Saglek Bay. Previously: BM: 
Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 

Polygonacess : 
fMacounastrum (Koenigia) Islandieum, Small. (100) Island near 

Ford Harbor. Previously: P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
Oxyria digyna, Hill. (Mountain Sorrel). (91) Port Man vers; (29) 

Nachvak. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: 

Hopedale (Weiz). 
♦Polygonum littorale, Link. (129) Ford Harbor. 
Polygonum viviparum, L. (194) Southern Lab. ; (296) St. Charles 

River; (248, 263) Pottle's Cove. E. B. D.: Rodney Mundy Island, 

Hopedale, Ford Harbor, Port Manvers. Previously: BM: Cape 

Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 
Rumex sp. (282) Southern Lab.; (118) Ford Harbor. 

Santalacese: 
tComandra livida, Rich. (225) St. Charles River. Previously: 

P: Hopedale (Weiz); coast (Morrison). 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. • 189 

Betulacese: 

Alnus viridis, DC. (Mountain Alder). E. B. D.: Aillik Bay, Mok- 
kovik Bay, Ford Harbor, Iterungnek-Saglek, Nachvak. Previously: 
BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Coastof Lab. (Morrison). M: Ford Harbor 
(Bell). 

tBetula nana, L. (Dwarf Birch). (223) Southern Lab.; (229) Seal 
Island; (337) Pottles Cove. E. B. D.: This or B. glandulosa is com- 
mon everywhere throughout the coastal region ; was seen all the way 
from St. Lewis Inlet in the extreme south northward to Nachvak. 
Previously: B. nana and B. glandulosa are given by BM as syn- 
onymous and recorded from Nachvak-Nain. No other definite record 
except of glandulosa by F: Hopedale, Square Island. 

Salicacese: 

Note: — Some of these were identified by Professor Bailey, but most 
of them were sent to Professor Rowlee, of Cornell. The initials of 
the person who is responsible for the name of the specimen are 
therefore given in each case after the name. In regard to the speci- 
mens submitted to him. Professor Rowlee reports: " The willows 
of northeastern North America and Greenland have not been thor- 
oughly worked out yet, and considerable confusion exists as to their 
limits, especially in the group including S. GroBnlandioa and S. 
Brownii. Mr. Rydberg has recently described S. atra and S. Lab- 
radoriea, but I am not convinced yet that they are specifically 
distinct. I have therefore adopted the more conservative view. He 
also has substituted the name S. anglorum for Brownii, — another 
move that there is still question about." 

Salix argyroearpa, Anders. (W. W. R.). (307) Great Caribou 
Island. Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Forteau (Allen). 

Salix Brownii, (Anders) Lundst. (W. W. R.) (184) Southern Lab.; 
(324, 328 to 335 inclusive) Pottle's Cove. Previously: F: Hope- 
dale, Red Bay, Chateau Bay, Indian Harbor ; reported by Macoun 
from " Labrador (Morrison)" and " Nachvak and Ford's Harbor 
(Bell)," but included in subsequent lists as S. arctica. M. (V, 356, 
1890), calls it S. Brownii, Bebb., with synonym S. arctica ; and gives 
among his localities also Cape Chidley (Bell). 

tSalix Candida, Willd. (W. W. B.). (207) Southern Lab. Pre- 
viously: P: Forteau Bay (Allen). 

*Salix Groenlandica, (Anders) Lundst. (W. W. R.). (183) South- 
em Lab. ; (165, 233, 234) Seal Islands. 

t Salix herbacea, L. (W. W. B.). (66) Various places. E. B. D.: 
Very common and unmistakable throughout the coast region. Noted 
specially at Great Caribou Island, Ford Harbor, Port Manvers, Iter- 
ungek; seen often in many other places, but not recorded. Pre- 
viously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. P: Coast (Morrison). 



190 Report of the Broivn-Harvard Expedition. 

*Salix Labradorica, Reydb. (S. Brownii ; see Bull. N. Y. Bot. Gar- 
den, vol. I, No. 4, p. 274. — W. W. R.). (208) Southern Lab. 

tSalix phylicifolia, L. (W. W. R.). (336) Pottle's Cove. Pre- 
viously: P: Nain and Ford's Harbor (Bell). 

*Salix uva-ursi, Pursh. (W. W. B., fide Fernald). (182) Southern 
Lab.; (230) Seal Island. E. B. D.: Great Caribou Island, Ford 
Harbor. Previously: P: Coast (Kohlmeister) ; Dead Islands 
(Allen). 

tSalix vestita, Pursh. (W. W. R.). (140) AilHk Bay; (347) Pomi- 
adluk. Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Coast (Kohlmeister). 

Empetraceae : 

Empetrum nigrum, L. (Crowberry, Curlew-berry). (215) Southern 
Lab. E. B. D. : The most abundant phenogamous plant of Labra- 
dor ; found in large quantities at all places visited. Its very numer- 
ous berries are not attractive when raw : the skin is tough, and the 
contents are only a mass of large dry seeds and a watery almost 
tasteless juice. But when cooked and sweetened the toughness of 
skin and seeds disappears, and it develops a delicious flavor. In spite 
of its exceeding abvmdance, the only previous references in au- 
thorities consulted are : Low : abundant throughout the semi-barren 
and barren regions of the peninsula, growing freely on the coast and 
inland. BM : Nachvak-Nain. P : Hopedale (Weiz). M : Cape 
Chidley (Bell). 

Coniferee : 

♦Abies balsamea, Miller ? (Balsam Fir). E. B. D. : Pottle's Cove ; 
this has been recorded previously only from the interior (Low ; but 
see also Bell, Geol. Surv. Can., 1884, p. 13 DD) ; and as I brought no 
specimen of it, I cannot now feel absolutely sure of the identification. 

tJuniperus communis, L., var. alpina, Gaud. (Juniper, Dwarf 
Cedar). E. B. D. : Pottle's Cove, Rodney Mundy Island. Pre- 
viously : P : Coast of Lab. (Hooker). M : Labrador (Lawson & 
How). 

Larix Americana, Michx. (Larch, Tamarack, etc). E. B. D. : 
Great Caribou Island, Pomiadluk, Aillik-Mokkovik, Hopedale. Pre- 
viously : BM: Nachvak-Nain P: (Hooker). Low : probably the 
hardiest tree of the sub-arctic forest belt : it grows everywhere 
throughout the Labrador Peninsula, and is probably next in abun- 
dance to the black spruce. F : Red Bay ; grows considerably north 
of Nain ; an abundant tree. 

fPicea alba, Link. (White Spruce). E. B. D. : Great Caribou 
Island, Rodney Mundy Island, Pomiadluk. Previously : P : 
(Hooker). F : Tub Harbor. Low : found everywhere throughout 
the wooded area of the peninsula, but is not everywhere common ; . . . 
its distribution appears to depend altogether on the soil. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 191 

tPicea nigra, Link. (Black Spruce). E. B. D. : Great Caribou 
Island, St. Charles River, Pottle's Cove, Rodney Mundy Island, 
Aillik-Mokkovik, Ford Harbor, Nain. Previously:?: (Hooker). 
F : Chateau Bay. Low : the most abundant tree of Labrador and 
probably constitutes over ninety per cent of the forest. 

Orohidaceae : 
tHabenaria dilatata, Gray. E. B. D. : AiUik, Mokkovik. Pre- 
viously : P : Hopedale Islands (Weiz). 
tHabenaria obtusata, Rich. B. B. D. : Aillik Bay. Previously : 

F : Indian Harbor. 

Iridacese : 
Iris sp. E. B. D. : Great Caribou Island, Sloop Harbor (Seal Islands), 
Rodney Mundy Island, Jigger Island, Hopedale. Previously : P : 
I. Hookeri at Hopedale Island (Weiz). F: I. versicolor at Battle 
Harbor. 

Liliacese : 

Clintonia borealis, Raf. E. B. D. : Great Caribou Jsland. Pre- 
viously : F : Chateau Bay, Northwest River, Pitts Arm, Henley 
Harbor, Red Bay. 

tSmilacina trifolia, Desf. (201) Southern Lab. E. B. D, : Great 
Caribou Island, Pottle's Cove. Previously : F : Battle Harbor, Tub 
Harbor. 

Streptopus sp. (193) Southern Lab. E. B. D. : Great Caribou 
Island, Brig Harbor Island, Mosquito Bight, Aillik Bay. Previously: 
(S. roseus) : P : Hopedale (Weiz). (S. amplexifolius) : F : Red Bay, 
Indian Harbor, Hopedale, Mallijak. 

Tofleldia palustris, Hudson. (158) Brig Harbor Island ; (98) 
Island near Ford Harbor. E. B. D. : Iterungnek-Saglek. Pre- 
viously : BM ; Nachvak-Nain. P : Hopedale (Weiz) ; coast 
(Hooker). 

Juncacess: 
*Juncus Castaneus, Smith .? (39) Nachvak. Previously: P: 

Ungava Bay (Barnston). 
Juncus trifldus, L. (107) Ford Harbor. Previously: F: Ramah, 

Carroll Cove. B : Grand River. 
fLuzula arcuata, Meyer. (310) Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: 

BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Ungava Bay (Barnston). M: Cape Chidley 

(Bell). 
♦Luzula hyperborea, R. Br. (26) Mt. Faunce: 3,500 to 4,400 feet 

above sea level. 
Cyperaeese : 
*Carex compacta, R. Br. (311) Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: 

M: Cape Chidley (Bell) ; but not included in his later list in Low un- 
less as C. rot vm data (Wahl). 



192 Report of the Brozvn-Harvard Expedition. 

*Carex filifolia, Nutt. (38) Nachvak. "Apparently first station 
east of Manitoba " (Femald). 

tCarex rariflora, Smith, (fide Femald). (284, 289, 291) Hare 
Island (St. Lewis Inlet). Previously: F: Hopedale, Webeck 
Harbor. 

tCarex rigida. Good. (C. vulgaris, Fries, var. hyperborea, Boott.). 
(339) Southern Lab.; (313) Brig Harbor Island; (104, 108, 115) 
Ford Harbor; (69) Hebron; (40) Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: 
BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. 

*Eriophorum alpinum, L. (338) Southern Lab.; (318) Jigger 
Island; (114) ? Ford Harbor. 

♦Eriophorum polystaehyon, L. (340) Southern Lab.; (346) Lo- 
cality unknown; (323) ? Port Man vers. Previously: P: var. 
angustifolium at Hopedale (Weiz), 

Eriophorum sp. E. B. D.: One or more species grow freely from 
Hebron northward. 

Scirpus oaespitosus, L. (303) St. Charles River. Previously: BM : 
Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale (Weiz). 

Scirpus sp. (236) Seal Islands. 
Graminese : 

fAgrostis sp. (110) Ford Harbor. Previously only A. rubra, L., 
by F: Hopedale, Hebron. 

tCalamagrostis Canadensis, Beauv. (113) Ford Harbor. Pre- 
viously: B: Grand River. 

Calamagrostis sp. (292) Hare Island; (321) Port Manvers; (309) 
Nachvak. 

♦Catabrosa aquatica, (L.). Beauv. (Aira aquatica, L.). (272) 
American Island (Seal Islands). 

tElymus arenarius, L. (E. mollis, Trin.). (325) Pottle's Cove. Pre- 
viously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. 

tPestuca brevifolia, R. Br. (314) Brig Harbor Island. Previously: 
BM: Nachvak-Nain. 

♦Pestuca rubra, L. (288) Hare Island; (103) Ford Harbor. Britton 
& Brown refer this to Labrador, but I find no other reference to any 
part of the Peninsula. 

tHieroehloe alpina, Roem. & Schl. (105, 116) Ford Harbor; (42) 
Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak- 
Nain. P: Ungava Bay (Bamston). 

tHieroehloe borealis, Roem. & Schl. (345) AiUik Bay; (30a) 

Nachvak. Previously: F: Mallijak (Hamilton Inlet). 
tPoa alpina, L. (288) Hare Island; (80) Port Manvers or Mugford ; 
(112) Ford Harbor; (312) Hebron-Nachvak. Previously: BM: 
Cape Chidley. M: Nain (Bell). 



E. B. Delobarrc, Ph. D. 193 

fPoa glumaris, Trin. (344) Aillik Bay. Previously: F: Nain; 
southern coast. 

tPoalaxa, Hsenke. (327) Pottle's Cove; (111) Ford Harbor. Pre- 
viously: F: Ramah. 

*Poa nemoralis, L. (319) Jigger Island. 

Poa sp. (287) Hare Island; (108) Ford Harbor. 

tPhleum alpinum, L. (322) PortManvers. Previously: F: Ramah. 

fTrisetum subspieatum, Beauv., var. raolle. Gray. (315) Mug- 
ford; (79) Mugford or Port Man vers; (41, 44, 45, 46) Hebron- 
Nachvak. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley, Nachvak-Nain. 
Genus unknown: (300, 301, 302, 305) St. Charles River. 

Equisetacese : 
Equisetum sylvaticum, L. (237) Seal Island; (81) Port Manvers or 
Mugford; (251) Pottle's Cove. E. B. D.: Rodney Mundy Island. 
Jigger Island. Previously: BM: Nachvak-Nain. P: Hopedale 

(Weiz). 

Filiees: 

fAspidium fragrans/Swartz, (68) Hebron; (3, 8, 16) Nachvak. 
Previously: BM: Cape Chidley. 

fAspidium spinulosum, Swartz. (293,294) Southern Lab. Previ- 
ously: B: Grand River. F. reports var. dilatatum as probably the 
commonest form of the species in Labrador. 

Phegopteris ' Dryopteris, Fee. (290) Hare Island. Previously: 
F: Webeck Harbor, Tub Harbor, Mokkovik. B: Grand River. 

tPhegopteris polypodioides, Fee. (178) Rodney Mundy Island. 
Previously: F: Battle Harbor, Webeck Harbor. 

tWoodsia Ilvensis, R. Br. (148) Jigger Island; (135) Aillik Bay; 
(37) Nachvak. Previously: F. Ramah. 

Lycopodiacese: 
tLycopodium alpinum, L. (316) Mugford. Previously: F: Davis 

Inlet. 
tLycopodium annotinum, L. (343) Southern Lab. Previously: 

B: Grand River. F reports var. pungens from Hopedale, Chateau 

Bay, Red Bay. 
♦Lycopodium lucidulum, Michx. (341) Southern Lab. (320) Jigger 

Island. 
tLycopodium Selago, L. (342) Southern Lab. ; (317) Jigger Island; 

(308) Nachvak. Previously: BM: Cape Chidley. P: Nain and 

Ford Harbor (Bell). 



194 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 



B. MOSSES AND HEPATICS. 

Note. — The; examination of these plants is still incomplete. Mr. 
Collins reports on them as follows: "Specimens collected (mostly 
without fruit) 114; specimens determined, about 85; species deter- 
mined, 29. Thirteen of these have already been reported from sev- 
eral localities on the Labrador coast. Five of them have been 
reported from one locality only. Of the remaining eleven, two (Di- 
cranum fuscescens, Polytrieum piliferum) have been indefi- 
nitely reported from " Labrador;" five (Braehytheeium sale- 
brosum, Conostomum boreale, \ Dicranum Bergeri, Pogo- 
natum capillare, Polytrieura cominune,) 'are very common 
throughout North America and are reported from both Greenland 
and Newfoundland, and it would be very surprising if they did not 
occur on the Labrador coast, although there is no previous record of 
them; three others are entirely new : Mnium punctatum elatum 
is known in Miquelon, but the type has been reported also from the 
Labrador coast; Barbula ruralis is known previously only from 
further north and west ; Splachnum. Wormskjoldii seems to be a 
very good find, having been known heretofore only from high north- 
ward—Smith Sound (78°— 82° N.), Greenland, Norway, Lapland, 
Spitzbergen, and N.Asia; and finally one (No. 26b, see below), if a 
variety of Pogonatum urnigerum, is here found much farther 
north and at a higher altitude than previously known. Most of the 
undetermined specimens are apparently more or less common species 
(or duplicates), although, from a hasty perusal, a few of them may 
prove interesting, as I cannot place them without further study." 

For the determination of previously recorded localities, "Paris: 
Index Bryologicus (1894-1900)" has been consulted, in addition to the 
authorities already referred to. Specimens recorded below merely as 
from the " Atlantic coast of Labrador" were gathered in a variety 
of places and seemed to the collector to be so common and widely 
distributed that no more definite local references were made. 

Musci : 

Andresea petrophila, Ehrh. (1) Atlantic coast of Labrador; (30) 
Mt. Faunce. Previously: M: Deep Water Creek, Venison Tickle, 
Battle Harbor, Bolster Rocks (Waghorne). 

Aulacomnium palustre, (L) Schwaegr. (44, a form , 62, 90, 94) 
Atlantic coast of Labrador; (32a, 35b, 70, 73, 77b) Nachvak." 
Previously: M: Battle Harbor, Cape Charles, Fox Harbor (Wag- 
home); Whale Island, Chateau Bay (Allen). 

Aulacomnium turgidum, '(Wahlen.) Schwaegr. (116a) Atlantic 
coast of Labrador. Previously: M: Seal Islands, Battle Harbor 
(Waghorne). 

*Barbula ruralis, (L) Hedw. (20) Pottle's Cove. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 195 

♦Brachjrthecium salebrosum var. palustre, Schpr. ( ?114) Atlantic 
coast of Labrador. 

Ceratodon purpureus, Brid. (78b, 79) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 
Previously: M: Squaw Head, Venison Tickle (Waghome). 

*Conostomum boreale, Swartz. (72) Nachvak. 

*Dicranum Bergeri, Bland. (83a) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 

*Dicranum fuscescens, Turn. ; (or possibly D. eongestum. — J.F. 
C. ) (13b, 50b) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 

tGrimmia apocarpa, (L) Hedw. (107b) Atlantic coast of Labra- 
dor. Previously: M: Battle Harbor ("Waghome). 

tHylocomium splendens, (Hedw.) Bry. Eur. (21) Pottle's Cove. 
Previously: M: Battle Harbor (Waghome). 

tHypnum cordifolium, Hedw. (16) Hopedale. Previously: M: 
Battle Harbor (Waghome). 

Hypnum revolvens, Swz. (54, 113) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 

Previously: M: Battle Harbor, Square Island (Waghome). 
Hypnum Schreberi, Willd. (45b, 51, 61, 63b, 64a, 87a) Atlantic 

coast of Labrador. Previously: B: Hamilton River; M: Deep 

Water Creek, Battle Harbor (Waghome). 

Hypnum stramineum, Dicks. (12, 57a) Atlantic coast of Labra- 
dor. Previously: M: Cape Chidley (Bell); Indian Harbor, Venison 
Tickle (Waghome). 

Hypnum uncinatum, Hedw. (7, 57c) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 
Previously: M: Cape Chidley (Bell); Square Island, Seal Islands, 
Battle Harbor (Waghome). 

*Mnium punctatum var. elatum, Schpr. (17, 24) Rodney Mundy 
Island. Previously: (Mnium punc. non var.) M: Battle Harbor 
(Waghome). 

Pogonatum alpinum, Roehl. (89) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 
Previously : M : Little Bay Islands, Westem Cove, Cape Charles, 
Deep Water Bay (Waghome). 

*Pogonatum alpinum var., or P. urnigerum, (Beauv.) var. f26b) 
Mt. Faunce. " It seems to be a form of one of these. It is, how- 
ever, very different from either in their typical form, especially in 
regard to size of plant, and size and margin of leaves. I am some- 
what more inclined to think it a variety of P. alpinum now than T 
was at the first examination. I am unable (or have been so far) to 
find a description of any variety of either species which seems to fit 
your plant. In the absence of fruit, I am afraid it will be somewhat 
difficult to say with any degree of certainty of which it is a form, 
unless an authentic specimen can be found somewhere that exactly 
fits it."— (J. F. C.) 

*Pogonatum eapillare, Brid. (27) Mt. Faunce. 



196 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

*Polytricuni commune, L. (15) Ford Harbor; (59, 63d) Atlantic 
coast of Labrador. 

Polytrieum juniperinum, Willd. (78a) Atlantic coast of Labrador ; 
(74) Nachvak. Previously: B : Grand River; BMi: CapeChidley, 
Nachvak-Nain ; M ; Little Bay Islands (Waghome). 

*Polytricum piliferum, Schreb. (i07a) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 

tPolytrieum striatum, Banks. (9, 10a, 45e, 50a, 58, 80a, 85b, 
99) Atlantic coast of Labrador; (23a) Brig Harbor Island ; (35a, 
77a) Nachvak. Previously: M: Nain (Bell). 

Bacomitrium caneseens, Brid. (34b) Nachvak. Previously: 
M : Seal Island, Venison Tickle (Waghome). 

fRaeoraitrium lanuginosum, (Hedw.) Brid. (22b) Brig Harbor 
Island ; (25, 28, 29a, 31b) Mt. Faunce ; 63a, 67, 86a) Atlantic coast 
of Labrador. Previously : M : near Venison Tickle (Waghorne). 

Sphagnum acutifolium, Ehrh. (65, 106) Atlantic coast of Labrador. 
Previously; M: Cartridge Bight, Seal Islands, Spence's Cove 
(Waghorne). 

*Splaehnum Wormskjoldii, Hornem. (111b, 112) Seal Island. 

Tetraplodon mnioides, (L. f.) Bry. Eur. (109, 110, Ilia) Seal 
Island; (101) Atlantic coast of Labrador. Previously: M: Paro- 
quet Island (Allen) ; Indian Harbor, Venison Tickle, Battle Harbor, 
Seal Island (Waghorne). 
Hepatiese : 

Note. — None of these are reported by the previously-named 
authorities, nor by W. H. Pearson in his List of Canadian Hepa- 
ticce (1890). All the specimens recorded below are from the Atlantic 
coast of Labrador, but no more definite locality can be given, 

*Blepharostoma triehopliyllum, Dum. (3a, 4a. ) 

*Pimbriaria tenella, Nees. (4c.) 

* Jungermannia ventricosa, Dicks. (13a.) 

*Lepidozia setacea. Mitt. ( ? 3b.) 

*Marsupella emarginata, Dum. ( ? 88b.) 

*Nardia crenulata, Lindb. (?4b.) 

*Ptilidium ciliare, Nees. (2, 6, 60, 80b, 86c.) 

C. LICHENS. 

[Note . — The following report on lichens is by Miss Clara E. Cum- 
min gs. Associate Professor of Cryptogamic Botany at Wellesley Col- 
lege, who kindly undertook the task of identification. Those 
recorded from "no definite locality" were gathered at various 
places on the Atlantic coast of Labrador, between St. Lewis 
Sound and Hebron. — E. B. D.] 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 197 

The latest publication on the lichens of Labrador is the pamphlet enti- 
tled Labrador, published by Dr. F. Arnold at Munich in 1896. This is 
based on the work of Meyer (i), Schlechtendahl (2), Breutel (3), Tucker- 
man (4), Wainio (5), and Eckfeldt (6), and on specimens collected by the 
Rev. Mr. Waghorne and communicated to Dr. Arnold by Mr. J. W. Eck- 
feldt. 

(l) Meyer, Em., De plantis Labradoricis libri tres, 18 jo. (2) Schlech- 
tendahl, D. F. L. V, Ueber die Flora von Labrador, in Linncea, i8j6. 
(3) Breutel, Flora German. Exsiccata, 1832, 1843. (4) Tuckerman, 
Synopsis N. A. L. I, 1882 ; II, 1888. (5) Wainio, Monographia Clado- 
niarium. I, 1876; II, 1894. (6) Eckfeldt, J. W., An enumeration of 
the lichens of Newfoundland and Labrador, Bull. Torrey Bot. Club, i8g§. 

The total number of species given in Dr. Arnold's list is one hundred 
and twenty-seven, besides numerous varieties and forms. The present 
collection of forty-three specimens includes five species which are not 
recorded in Dr. Arnold's list, namely, Cetraria Islandica var. platyna, 
Cetraria cucuUata, Theloschistes poly carpus, Lecanora palles- 
cens, and Cladonia bellidiflora var. ochropallida. 

1. Cetraria arctica, (Hook.) Tuck. On Mt. Faunae, at an altitude 
of 3,500-4,000 ft. ; also at Nachvak. The species appears in Eckfeldt's 
enumeration. 

2. Cetraria Islandica, (L.)Ach. Mixed with Cetraria cucuUata 
and C. nivalis. Both Arnold and Eckfeldt credit it to Labrador upon 
material collected by the Rev. Mr. Waghorne, and in my own herbarium 
I have material collected by him at Battle Harbor. 

3. Cetraria Islandica, (L.) Ach., d. platyna (Ach.)Th. Fr. With 
the preceding species and also mixed with Cladonia rangiferina, CI. syl- 
vatica and Stereocaulon tomentosum. A specimen in my herbarium 
was collected by the Rev. Mr. Waghorne at L'anse au Loup. 

4. Cetraria Islandica, (L.) Ach., b. Deiisgei (Bor.) Schaer. This 
variety is recorded in Eckfeldt's list, and a specimen in my own her- 
barium was collected by the Rev. Mr. Waghorne at West S. Modeste. 

5. Cetraria cucuUata, (Bell.) Ach. On Mt. Faunce, 3,500-4,000 ft. 
altitude, and at Nachvak, with Cetraria arctica, C. Islandica and Cla- 
donia rangiferina. Evidently this is one of the most common species 
as indicated by the fragments mixed with many other lichens, though it 
does not appear in Dr. Arnold's list. 

6. Cetraria nivalis, (L.)Ach. On Mt. Faunce, 3,500-4,000 ft. alti- 
tude; other specimens have no definite locality recorded. It occurs alone 
and mixed with Cetraria Islandica and species of Cladonia. It is given 
in Eckfeldt's enumeration, and a specimen in my herbarium was col- 
lected by the Rev. Mr. Waghorne at Battle Harbor. 

7. Cetraria Fahlunensis, (L.) Schaer. The species is recorded in 
Eckfeldt's enumeration, and my herbarium contains a specimen collected 
by the Rev. Mr. Waghorne at Battle Harbor. 



198 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

8. Cetraria glauca, (L.) Ach., v. fusca (Flot.) Tuck. Recorded also 
in Eckfeldt's enumeration. 

9. Alectoria divergens, (Ach.) Nyl. On Mt. Faunce, 3,500-4,000 ft. 
altitude, with Alectoria nigricans. Various specimens were collected, 
either growing alone or mixed with A. nigricans, Cetraria, nivalis or 
species of Cladonia. The species is recorded in Eckfeldt's enumera- 
tion. It also appears in Arnold's list, having been collected at Long 
Island. It is represented in my herbarium by specimens collected by the 
Rev. Mr. Waghorne at Long Island and Battle Harbor. 

10. Alectoria jubata, (L.) Ach. Recorded by Eckfeldt. 

11. Alectoria nigricans, (Ach. ) Nyl. On Mt. Faunce, 3,500-4,000 ft, 
altitude, ; intermixed with Cladonia, Cetraria, Alectoria nigricans and 
fragments of Sphserophoron. Specimens were also collected for which 
no definite locality was given. It is given in Arnold's list as having 
been collected at Blanc Sablon and at Capstan Island. Eckfeldt records 
it under the synonym Alectoria ochroleuca (Ehrh.)Nyl., var. nigricans, 
Ach.; and Tuckerman as A. ochroleuca (Ehrh.) Nyl., 'a. rigida, Fr., nigri- 
cans, Ach. 

12. Alectoria ochroleuca, (Ehrh.) Nyl.,c. sarmentosa (Ach.) Nyl. 
Var. at Mokkovik. Recorded by Eckfeldt and represented in my herbarium 
by a specimen collected by the Rev. Mr. Waghorne at Battle Harbor. 

13. Theloschistes poly carpus, (Ehrh.) Tuck, Mt. Faunce, 3,500- 
4,000 ft. altitude. New to Labrador. 

14. Parmelia saxatilis, (L. ) Fr. This species is given in Eckfeldt's 
enumeration and is in my herbarium from Battle Harbor, Labrador, col- 
lected by the Rev. Mr. Waghorne. Dr. Arnold reports its occurrence at 
Capstan Island and at L'anse au Clair. 

15. Parmelia saxatilis, (L.)Fr.,d. omphalodes Fr. Given in Eck- 
feldt's enumeration and in my herbarium from Battle Harbor, collected 
by the Rev. Mr. Waghorne. 

16. Parmelia physodes, (L.)Ach., b. obseurata, Ach. Given in 
Eckfeldt's enumeration. A very variable form. In some specimens the 
lobes of the thallus are very long and narrow, as in var. vittata, in others 
wide and ventricose-infiated, as in var. enteromorpha, while in still 
others the lobes are extremely abbreviated and closely massed. 

17. Umbilicaria cylindriea, (L.) Delis. The specimens are well 
fruited. The species is recorded by Tuckerman and Eckfeldt. Collected 
also at West S. Modeste by the Rev. Mr. Waghorne, and represented in my 
herbarium. No. 1136 in Breutel's Exsiccata under Gyrophora. 

18. Umbilicaria proboscidea, (L.)DC. Mt. Faunce, 3,500-4,000 
ft. altitude. The specimens were fertile. Recorded also by Eckfeldt ; 
recorded by Arnold as occurring at Forteau under the synonym Gyrophora. 

19. Umbilicaria hyperborea, Hoffm. Fertile. The species is 
listed by Eckfeldt, and also represented in my herbarium by a specimen 



E. B. Delaharre, Ph. D. 199 

from Blanc Sablon collected by the Rev. Mr. Waghome. Arnold lists it 
as collected at L'anse au Loup. 

20. Umbilicaria vellea, (L.) Nyl. Nachvak. Only sterile speci- 
mens. Given in Eckfeldt's enumeration. 

21. Nephroma arcticum, (L.) Fr. Specimens fine and well fruited. 
Recorded by Eckfeldt; also in Arnold's list as collected by Herzberg in 
Labrador, and as represented in Breutel's Exs. 204. 

^ 22. Solorina croeea, (L.) Ach. Only sterile fragments. Recorded 
by Tuckerman as occurring in Labrador; also given in Eckfeldt's enum- 
eration. 

23. Placodium elegans, (Link.) DC. One sterile specimen. Also 
recorded by Eckfeldt. 

24. Lecanora palleseens, (L.) Schaer. Frtiit immature, and there- 
fore the determination is somewhat uncertain. New to Labrador. 

25. Pertusaria dactylina, (Ach.) Nyl. Recorded by Eckfeldt and 
also by Arnold as having been found at L'anse au Mort and L'anse au 
Loup. 

26. Stereocaulon tomentosum, Fr. Mt. Faunce, 3,500-4,000 ft. 
altitude; also various specimens with no definite locality. Evidently 
quite common. Recorded also by Eckfeldt. 

27. Stereocaulon denudatum, Floerk. Nachvak, Mt. Faunce, 
3,500-4,000 ft. altittide. Both this and the preceding species were sterile. 
Given in Eckfeldt's enumeration. 

2&. Sphserophoron fragile, (Crantz. ) Pers. Several specimens, all 
sterile, differing considerably in appearance. In the typical form the 
branches of the thallus are spreading and open, but one specimen has the 
lobes of the thallus very much abbreviated and closely caespitose. Re- 
corded in Eckfeldt's enumeration. 

29. Sphserophoron coralloides, Pers. On Mt. Faunce, 3,500-4,000 
ft. altitude, all the specimens sterile; also at Brig Harbor, July 26, 
1900; and other specimens with no definite locality. Given in Eckfeldt's 
enumeration; also in Arnold's list as found at Long Island and at L'anse 
au Loup. 

30. Cladonia pyxidata, (L.)Fr., var. poeillum (Ach.) Flot. No 
definite locality given. Recorded in Arnold's list as collected by Herz- 
berg at Okak; also given in Eckfeldt's enumeration. 

31. Cladonia gracilis, (L. ) Willd., var. choridalis (Floerk.) 
Schaer. Represented by six specimens, three of which were collected 
at Nachvak. The specimens vary considerably in size, those from Nach- 
vak being rather short and compact. All the specimens are sterile. Also 
recorded in Eckfeldt's enumeration. 

32. Cladonia rangiferina, (L.) Web. Emend. Mixed with Cetraria 
nivalis, C. cuculatta, C. Islandica, etc. Everywhere; specially noted at 



200 Report of the Brown- Harvard Expedition. 

Aillik-Mokkovik, Hebron-Iterungnek, Nachvak. Recorded in Arnold's 
list as collected by Herzberg at Okak. Given in Eckfeldt's enumeration. 

33. Cladonia sylvatica, (L.) Hofifm., a. sylvestriSjOed. Nachvak. 
Given in Arnold's list as CI. sylvatica. Collected by Herzberg at Okak. 

34. Cladonia alpestris, (L.) Rabenh. Everywhere; specially noted 
at Aillik-Mokkovik, Hebron-Iterungnek. Recorded by Arnold as 
collected at Blanc Sablon. Given in Eckfeldt's enumeration as CI. syl- 
vatica var. alpestris. 

35. Cladonia uncialis, (L.) Web. No definite locality recorded. 
Growing with Cetraria nivalis. Wainio states that it was collected in 
Labrador by Morrison. 

36. Cladonia eoccifera, (L.) Willd. At AiUik-Mokkovik. Speci- 
mens fertile and rather reduced in size. Given in Arnold's list as col- 
lected by Herzberg. 

37. Cladonia bellidiflora, (Ach.) Schaer. At Aillik-Mokkovik. 
Specimens are well-fruited. Recorded by Tuckerman as occurring in 
Labrador. Given in Arnold's list as collected by Herzberg at Okak, and 
as appearing in Breutel's Exs. 103, collected by Henne; also as collected at 
West S. Modeste. A specimen in my herbarium was collected by the Rev. 
Mr. Waghome at L'anse au Clair. 

38. Cladonia bellidiflora, (Ach.) Schaer., e. ochropallida, Plot. 

With the preceding. A very delicate specimen. 

39. Cladonia deformis, (L.) Hoffm. No definite locality recorded. 
Given in Eckfeldt's enumeration without locality. All the specimens are 
sterile. 

40. Cladonia reticulata, ( Russell) Wainio. Some of the specimens 
are very large and much inflated and these are less reticulate than the 
smaller specimens. Listed by Dr. Arnold on the authority of Tucker- 
man, who credits the specimen to Mr. W. A. Steams. 

41. Leeidea albocoerulescens, (Wulf) Schaer., var. flavocoeru- 
lescens, Schaer. A small sterile specimen may perhaps be referred here. 
Eckfeldt records the occurrence of this variety in Labrador. 

42. Leeidea platycarpa, Ach. On rock with the following species. 

43. Buellia geographica, (L.) Tuck. Pottle's Cove. On rock. 
Listed by Dr. Arnold under the synomyn Rhizocarpon geographicum, L. 

D. FUNGI. 

Note. — The ftmgi were collected along the coast, mainly from Mok- 
kovik, Hopedale, Nain and Nachvak. The remarks in quotation-marks 
below are from Professor Farlow's notes on the specimens. The only 
fungi previously reported from Labrador in the lists consulted as named 
above are: Lycoperdon, Russula, Agaricus, and seven minute species, 
all given in Bell's list. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 201 

D denotes identification from description. 

S " " " preserved specimen. 

X " " by E. B. D. only. 

4S. *Boletiniis decipiens, Pk. (Boletus decipiens, B. & C.) " This 
is Boletus decipiens, I think. The species is really a Bole- 
tinus rather than a Boletus. It is not very well known." 

3S. *Boletus scaber, Fr. ? " This is near B. scaber." 

iS, 2D. *Boletus variegatus, Swartz. E. B.D.: Noted at Ford Harbor 
and common all the way between Hebron and Nachvak. 

X. Boletus sp. E. B. D.: One or more species noted at Pottle's 
Cove (two specimens), abundant at Ford Harbor, very 
abundant at Port Manvers, at Nachvak, and on the ret\irn 
at Nain and Hopedale. 

6S. *Collybia lacerata, Lasch. 

5S. *Cortinarius sp. 

7D. *Cortinarius sp. " A Cortinarius, but no mortal knows the 
species of that genus." E. B. D.: From Port Manvers, 
I terungnek-Saglek . 

8D. *Entoloma elypeus, vel aff. E. B. D.: From Port Manvers, 
Iterungnek-Saglek. 

6D. *Hyplioloma sp. " The fungus is apparently a Hypholoma, 
but I do not recognize the species." From Port Manvers. 

7S. *Inocybe sp. " An Inocybe not to be named except on micro- 
scopical examination." 

2S. *Lactarius vellerius, Fr. ; "probably." 

8S. Lactarius sp. " A small Lactarius, perhaps near L. vietus. 
It needs to be compared with other species as to microscopic 
character." 

9S. *Lenzites abietina, Fr. 

X. *Lycoperdon saccatum, Vahl., probably. Ford Harbor, 
Iterungnek. 

X. *Lycoperdon sp. Port Manvers, Iterungnek. 

X. *Peziza ? In hot-house at Ramah. 

loS. *Russula lepida, Fr. ? " This appears to be R. lepida, but notes 
on appearance when fresh are needed." Seen at Mugford, 
Iterungnek, Nachvak. 

loD&c. Bussulae. " The Russixlae cannot be named without more notes 
and specimens." Seen in considerable quantity at same 
places as the last; also at Port Manvers, Nain, Hopedale. 



202 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

IX. 

REPORT ON ORNITHOLOGY. 

By Henry B. Bigelow. 

[Note. — Mr. Bigelow sent his list to the editor with the following words 
of explanation : " I am enclosing the list of Labrador birds, for which you 
asked. I suppose you want it condensed, and have made it in fact little 
more than a list of names, with brief notes on their relative abundance 
and distribution. I have given no introduction at all, as I suppose your 
paper will describe the nature of the country so fully as to make one 
superfluous." 

This list was prepared earlier than that published by Mr. Bigelow 
in Auk, January, 1902. The latter has not the same numbering as this, 
and contains a few additions and corrections. Added are : Botaurus 
lentiginosus, Tringa alpina paciflca, Spinus pinus, Sylvania 
pusilla, Sylvania * canadensis. The following changes are made : 
No. 28 to Aythya marila ; 30 to Somateria borealis ; 51 to Lagopus 
albus ; 64 to Passerculus sandwiohensis labradorius ; 75 to Parus 
atricapillus ; 76 to Tardus alicise. Numbers 28, 35 and 64 are ap- 
parently without previous record from this coast. — E. B. D.] 

1. Urinator imber. "Loon." Rather uncommon. We met them 

singly or in pairs in the bays and fiords in August and September. 
Not found nesting. 

2. Urinator lumme. Red-throated Loon. " Wabby." Reported by 

the settlers as common. We saw only a few, in September. 

3. Fratercula aretiea. Puffin. Common. One of the more charac- 

teristic sea-fowl, of local abundance. Near their rookeries they 
were very abundant during July. In August they were more gen- 
erally distributed. We saw comparatively few north of Cape 
Harrigan. 

4. Cepphus grylle. Black Guillemot. Pigeon. Very abundant all 

along the coast. The most numerous of all the water fowl, after 
the kittiwakes. Breeding commonly on the smaller islets. Much 
used by the settlers as an article of food. 

5. XJria troile. Murre. Common, but much less so than formerly, 

owing to "eggers." Breeding still in considerable colonies. Com- 
paratively scarce north of Cape Harrison, though reported to be 
abundant along the northern coast later in the fall. 

6. Uria lomvia. Brunnich's Murre. Rather less common than the 

last. We saw none north of Hamilton Inlet. 

7. AIca torda. Razor-billed Auk. Common, particularly so about 

Hamilton Inlet, and jitst north of Belle Isle. At Port Manvers we 
saw only a few. In July we usually fotmd them in the loose floe-ice. 

* The omission of capitals in proper names is in accordance with the wishes of the author. 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 203 

8. AUe alle. Dovekie. Reported abundant in fall and winter. I saw 

only one specimen, oflE Cape Harrison on Sept. i8th. 

9. Stercorarius pomarinus. Pomarine Jaeger. Much less common 

than the two following. 

10. Stercorarius parasiticus. Parasitic Jaeger. 

11. Stercorarius longicaudus. Long-tailed Jasger. Both this and pre- 

ceding common, of about equal abundance. Usually with flocks of 
kittiwakes. 

12. Rissa tridactyla. Kittiwake. Most abundant sea-bird. Found 

everywhere in great numbers. 

13. Larus glaucus. Ice Gull, Burgomaster, Glaucous Gull. More and 

more common the further north we went. Abundant at Port 
Manvers. Not seen south of Cape Harrison. 

14. Larus marinus. Black-backed Gull. Abundant. Breeds com- 

monly, though not in colonies. 

15. Larus argentatus smithsonianus. Herring Gull. Common all 

along the coast. 

16. Larus delawarensis. Ring-billed Gull. I took one young bird 

at Port Manvers on Sept. 6th. No others seen. 

17. Larus Philadelphia. Bonaparte's Gull. Rather common about 

Belle Isle late in September. Not seen further north. 

18. Sterna paradisasa. Arctic Tern. A few seen about Belle Isle in 

Jul}^ and again late in September. 

19. Fulmarus glaeialis. Noddy. Rather common oft" shore with the 

shearwaters. 

20. Puf&nus major. Greater Shearwater. Common off shore in large 

flocks. 

21. Puf&nus stricklandi. Sooty Shearwater. Common with the pre- 

ceding. 

22. Oceanodroma leucorhoa. Leach's Petrel. Common, breeding 

locally in considerable numbers south of Hamilton Inlet. We saw 
none further north. 

23. Sula bassana. Gannet. A few seen in July and September about 

Belle Isle. 

24. Phalacrocorax carbo. Cormorant. A few seen about Belle Isle. 

None further north. 

25. Phalacrocorax dilophus. Double-crested Cormorant. A few seen 

about Belle Isle, none further north. 

26. Merganser serrator. Red-breasted Merganser. Common. Breeding 

all along the coast. 

27. Anas obscura. Black Duck. Rather uncommon on the coast. 

28. Aythya marila nearctica. Greater Scaup Duck. One specimen 

from Dr. Grenfell, shot at Nain, October, 1899. 



204 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

29. Glaucionetta clangula americana. American Golden Eye. 

Rare; one near Paul's Island, August nth. 

30. Soraateria mollissima borealis. Greenland Eider. Abundant 

north of Hamilton Inlet. 

31. Soraateria dresseri. American Eider. Common on the more 

southern coast. 

32. Oidemia americana. Black Scoter. Common in the fiords in Sep- 

tember. 

33. Oidemia deglandi. White-winged Scoter. Common along the 

coast and in the fiords in September. 

34. Oidemia perspicillata. Surf Scoter. Common along the coast and 

in the fiords in September. 

35. Anser albifrons gambelli. White-fronted Goose. One specimen 

from Dr. Hettasch, Hopedale, May, 1900. 

36. Branta canadensis. Canada Goose. Abundant along the coast in 

spring, common in fall from September 20th. 

37. Branta bernicla. Brant. Rare. One specimen from Dr. Grenfell, 

Nain, October, 1899. 

38. Crymophilus fuliearius. Red Phalarope. Not uncommon off 

shore. 

39. Phalaropus lobatus. Northern Phalarope. Common, breeding 

commonly along most of the coast. 

40. Gallinago delicata. Snipe. Rare. Two or three at Cape St. 

Francis Harbor late in September. 

41. Tringa raaculata. Pectoral Sandpiper. Abundant at Manvers and 

Hopedale in August and September. 

42. Tringa fusicoUis. White-rumped Sandpiper. Abundant along the 

shore in August and September. 

43. Tringa minutilla. Least Sandpiper. Rather common, breeding 

locally. 

44. Ereunetes pusillus. Semi-palmated Sandpiper. Common, breed- 

ing locally. Yovmg found on July i8th, at Seal Island. 

45. Calidris arenaria. Sanderling. Rather scarce. August and Sep- 

tember. 

46. Totanus melanoleucus. Greater Yellow-legs. Rather scarce, in 

August and September. Not found breeding. 

47. Actitis macularia. Spotted Sandpiper. Very numerous, breeding 

almost everywhere. 

48. Numenius borealis. Eskimo Curlew. Barely a remnant of their 

former numbers. Nearly exterminated. A few were seen during 
September, perhaps eight or ten. 

49. Charadrius dominicus. Golden Plover. Rather Common. Sev- 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 205 

eral small flocks observed on and after August 20th. Manvers and 
southward to Belle Isle. 

50. ^gialitis seraipalmata. Semipalmated Plover. Common, breed- 

ing along the whole coast. 

51. Lagopus lagopus. Willow Ptarmigan. Rather common from 

Hamilton Inlet north to Manvers. 

52. Lagopus rupestris. Rock Ptarmigan. Common from Cape Har- 

rigan northward. Beyond Okkak the rock ptarmigan probably 
belonged to the sub-species " reinhardti." 

53. Arehibuteo lagopus saneti-johannis. Rough-legged Hawk. Very 

abundant everywhere. Breeding commonly. 

54. Paleo rustieolus obsoletus. Labrador Gyrfalcon. Scarce. One at 

Port Manvers, September 5th. 

55. Faleo peregrinus anatum. Duck Hawk. Rather common at Port 

Manvers and northward. 

56. Asio aecipitrinus. Short-cared Owl. Rather common on the coast 

in September. 

57. Otocoris alpestris. Homed Lark. Abundant everywhere. A very 

characteristic bird. 

58. Perisoreus canadensis nigricapillus. Labrador Jay. Common 

locally as far as Port Manvers, where it was abundant. 

59. Corvus corax principalis. Raven. Common from Hamilton Inlet 

northward. South of that, scarce. 

60. Pinicola enucleator. Pine Grosbeak. Common wherever we found 

woodlands, as far north as Mokkovik. 

61. Acanthis linaria. Redpoll. Everywhere common. 

62. Plectrophenax nivalis. Snow Bunting. Abtindant from August 

15th on, especially at Manvers. 

63. Calcarius lapponicus. Lapland Longspur. Abundant after August 

30th. Very numerous at Port Manvers. 

64. Ammodramus sandwichensis savannah. Savannah Sparrow. 

Locally common. Abundant at Manvers from August 24th to 
September 5th. 

65. Zonotrichia leucophrys. White-crowned Sparrow. The most 

abundant land bird everywhere. 

66. Spizella monticola. Tree Sparrow. Rather uncommon, though 

not rare. 

67. Junco hyemalis. Junco. Not common. A few near Mokkovik 

early in August. 

68. Melospiza lincolni. Lincoln's Sparrow. Common in the more 

southern region, as far as Hamilton Inlet. Breeds. 



2o6 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

69. Passerella iliaca. Fox Sparrow. Very common as far as Mokko- 

vik. Breeds abundantly. 

70. Dendroica coronata. Myrtle Warbler. Locally common to 

Mokkovik. 

71. Dendroica striata. Black-poll Warbler. Abundant as far as Hope- 

dale. A very characteristic bird. 

72. Seiurus noveboracensis. Water Thrush. Not uncommon as far 

as Mokkovik. 

73. Anthus pensilvanicus. Titlark. Very abundant everywhere in 

the more barren regions and on the islands. 

74. Regulus satrapa. Golden-crown Kinglet. Rather common in 

wooded places. North to Mokkovik. 

75. Parus hudsonicus. Hudsonian Chickadee. Rare. Two or three 

at Manak. 

76. Turdus alicise bicknelli. Bicknell's Thrush. One taken near 

Battle Harbor. 

77. Turdus ustulatus swainsoni. Olive-backed Thrush. Rather com- 

mon wherever there were trees, as far as Mokkovik. 

78. Merula Inigratoria. Robin. Rather uncommon. Common at 

Manvers September 6th to 8th. 

79. Saxicola OBnanthe. Wheatear. The agent at Nachvak had nests 

of this bird, which he had taken. 



X. 

REPORT ON GEOLOGY. 
BY REGINALD A. DALY, PH. D. 

The "Paradise of Geologists" is undoubtedly the great 
arid belt of the United States. The interpretation of 
the structure and history of the earth's crust is there pos- 
sible with a degree of rapidity and an amount of assured 
detail which are scarcely possible in any other region of the 
globe. A chief cause for this facility of study is to be found 
in a very general lack of forest and even of the soil-cap, 
which so seriously interfere with the work of the observer 
elsewhere. This same condition is supplied also in the 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 207 

coastal belt of northeastern Labrador, and it is largely owing 
to the relative barrenness of this region that we were able to 
win geological results worthy of record even under such un- 
promising circumstances as those described in the log of the 
"Brave." To be sure, the numerous delays that were found 
necessary during the cruise formed a very considerable ad- 
vantage to the geologist of the party, unwelcome as they gen- 
erally were to his friends on board. At every anchorage 
something could be done toward sampling the problems 
which this coast has to offer. In every case, with no forest 
to obscure the view, attention could be quickly called to 
novelties, whether dike, lava flow, intrusive boss, peculiar 
schist, noteworthy structure, elevated beach or sea-cave. 
For this reason, the questions concerning the history and 
composition of the coastal belt grew in number and signifi- 
cance as we made our hasty reconnaisance, although most 
of them would be, of course, more or less distinctly in mind 
before one set out on the trip. 

Composed as it is for the most part of the crystalline 
complex, presumably Archaean, which shows great diversity 
of structural trends where it has been studied by Low in 
the interior of Labrador, and by many others in its southern 
and southwestern extensions in Canada, it was not to be ex- 
pected that the northeastern coast-line would show the same 
average parallelism to the strike-direction of the schists as 
appears in the relation of the coast-line from the Carolinas 
to the Straits of Belle Isle. I was, therefore, not a little 
interested to find that, at some twenty-five different points 
from the Straits to Nachvak Bay, there is a decided cor- 
respondence in the attitude of the bedded rocks. Their 
edges are directed approximately northeast-southwest, giv- 



2o8 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

ing a "Labrador trend" which meets the "Appalachian 
trend" nearly at right angles in the vicinity of Belle Isle. 
The Archaean plateau would seem, then, to be rather defi- 
nitely rimmed for a distance of seven hundred miles on this 
northeast coast by the axis of the old mountain system. It 
is probable that the average direction of the present coast- 
line and of the adjacent continental shelf has thus been 
roughly determined by a principal and fundamental line of 
mountain-folding. 

So ancient is this orographic system that most of its 
height has long since been lost. Only in the belt stretching 
one hundred and fifty miles from the Johannisberg at 
Hebron to the cHfifs of Cape Chidley is there a strong re- 
minder in the existing relief of the Pre-Cambrian alpine 
chain. Orographically, though not structurally, this belt is 
a distinct unit and may be differentiated as the "Torngat" 
Range. The need of a special name for the range is evident 
to one who sees the great contrast between its lofty, rugged, 
oftentimes serrate topography, and that of the lower, 
monotonously rolling, hummocky plateau to the south. I 
have, therefore, adopted, with a slight modification of spell- 
ing (therein following the early missionaries, Kohlmeister 
and Kmoch), the name which Weiz gave to a part of the 
range. 

A collection of the more typical rocks of the crystalline 
complex was made. Not the least interesting addition to 
this petrographical booty was the gabbro from which the 
famous iridescent feldspar "labradorite" was first obtained 
nearly a century ago. So far as I am aware, the beautiful 
specimens which may be seen in all the principal museums 
of the world have, without exception, been obtained from 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 209 

the glacial erratics which are plentifully strewn along the 
coast in the vicinity of Nain. The opportunity of collecting 
from the rock in place at Mr. Taber's quarry was highly 
prized. The microscopical and chemical diagnosis of this 
and other rocks in our summer's collection is not yet com- 
pleted. 

The Kaumajet mountain group not only affords some 
wonderfully beautiful scenic effects, but is to the geologist 
instructive as well. Ogua'lik, Cape Mugford, the Bishop's 
Mitre, are all part of an extensive area of slates, sandstones, 
conglomerates, limestones, and, much surpassing these in 
thickness, lava flows, volcanic tufts and breccias, — a series 
of well-bedded rocks which rest directly on the truncated 
edges of the gneisses of the crystalline complex. This "un- 
conformity" between the gently dipping younger formation 
of sombre hue and the light gray gneissic basement is truly 
spectacular. The slightly sinuous line of contact between 
the two formations may be followed for miles on the bold 
clififs in and about Mugford Tickle. It represents an ancient 
land-surface, buried now under twenty-five hundred feet of 
marine and volcanic strata of unknown but certainly great 
age. From this thick rock-blanket, atmospheric and glacial 
erosion have carved the picturesque Kaumajets as we see 
them to-day, while the same agencies have fashioned even 
more fantastic peaks and valleys in the gneissic basement 
at the Nanuktuks, where the rock-cover has been com- 
pletely swept away. 

During our two-weeks' stay at Nachvak Bay, I was able 
to construct a sketch-contour map of the inlet, and by a 
series of soundings to demonstrate that it is a true fiord and 
one of the best types in eastern America. With a maximum 



210 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

depth of loo fathoms, it is not deep as fiords go, but the in- 
terruption of its bottom seaward slope by two rock-sills 
within the "Narrows" and the existence of a similar shoal 
outside show this bay to be of the same nature as the typical 
inlets of Norway, Greenland, or Alaska. The best inter- 
pretation of such an arrangement of bottom slopes would 
attribute them and the broad U-shaped cross-section of the 
fiord to glacial erosion. A corroboration of this view was 
found in a number of "hanging valleys" which are drained 
into the bay. It is now the fashion to regard these as in- 
dicating a power of excavation possessed by valley glaciers 
which was considered as highly improbable by most geol- 
ogists only five years ago. One of these side-valleys is 
"hanging" some 1,200 feet above the bottom of its 
trunk valley, Nachvak Bay, and at the junction of the two 
occurs the finest cascade in the region. 

At Nachvak I was able to confirm Dr. Robert Bell in 
the proof that the glaciers of the ice epoch were only local 
in its closing stages, and that an overwhelming general gla- 
ciation of the Torngats, such as occurred in the White, 
Green, and Adirondack mountains, did not take place in the 
last glacial epoch. The ice of that period moved seaward 
from the neve of the interior of Labrador through the trans- 
verse valleys and passes of this range, and seldom, if ever, 
submerged the mountains above the 2,100 contour. 

The glacial striae of the coast are scarcely more 
numerous than the "lunoid furrows" which had been dis- 
covered there by Professor Packard. Their characteristics 
led me to a somewhat new interpretation of these markings, 
which, however, I shall not detail here. They agreed with 
the striae in showing that the ice-movements of the last 



E. B. Delabarre, Ph. D. 211 

glacial epoch were radially outward from the centre of 
discharge, viz. : the southwestern portion of the peninsula. 
Baron De Geer has shown that with a similar dispersal of ice 
from the centre of the Scandinavian sheet, there may be 
correlated differential elevation of northwestern Europe in 
post-glacial times. This uplift of the continent has been 
greatest at the centre of radiation, and, in general, becomes 
progressively less with increasing distance from that centre. 
If, as seems natural, we may assume that the currents within 
the ice-cap moved from the centre outwards because the cap 
was thicker there than on the edges, it is legitimate to follow 
De Geer in forming his explanatory hypothesis of the cor- 
relation between ice-radiation and post-glacial elevation. 
Uplift has been most pronounced where the earth's crust 
has lost the greatest load by the melting of the ice-cap; less 
and less pronounced along the radii leading from the region 
of greatest thickness of ice. The earth's crust is, then, 
elastic, and sensitive to a load relatively so insignificant as 
a regional glacier. 

De Geer saw that it would help his case if he could find 
a second example. He discovered that North America, 
while in the main telHng the same story, could not furnish 
so complete a homologue on account of the lack of inform- 
ation regarding the maximum amount of post-glacial uplift 
in Newfoundland and Labrador. I was able to determine 
with a small margin of error the position of the highest post- 
glacial shore-line from St. John's to Nachvak Bay, a distance 
of 1,100 miles. The result is to supply so much of a gap 
in the information necessary to test De Geer's theory; and, 
in the main, the theory is strengthened by this addition to 
the list of observations on crustal movements. Incidentally, 



212 Report of the Brown-Harvard Expedition. 

barometric readings gave the elevations of a large number 
of raised beaches, sea-caves, etc., all exposed on the bare 
slopes with marvelous distinctness. 

Some 300 observations of surface and subsurface tem- 
peratures of the coastal waters were made, and in many cases 
the densities were taken as well. These observations have 
not, as yet, been subjected to the necessary corrections nor 
has their significance been wholly determined. 

A detailed account of my summer's results on the 
geology and physical geography of Labrador will shortly 
appear in a Bulletin of the Museum of Comparative Zoology^ 
Harvard University. 



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